96' Procharged Cobra "Casper" Build

98 svt

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I would agree on this. I was getting grinding going in to 4th gear and popping out of 2nd a few times to finally realize that my new adjustable cable might have stretched a bit and might need adjusted. After about 10 miles of pulling over, popping the hood and minor turn every 1/4 mile it finally shifts great with no grinding and popping out. Was a PITA!!!!!!!!


Just wait until it stretches some more!
 

01silverstang

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I was getting really bad chatter on release with the adjustable cable. It's much improved with the OEM, but I still need to adjust at the firewall. I think the instructions I read said to thread the adjustor all the way closed when installing. Install the OEM cable, and then rotate the adjustor out until the clutch engagement is correct.
 

01silverstang

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Man, nothing can be simple. Wiring is the thing I have least experience with and of course that's now my issue. Realized that I'm also missing my brake lights. The new multifunction switch arrived yesterday but didn't fix anything. Found a Viper alarm system hiding under the dash and pulled as much as I could.

Found a youtube video for an F-150 where the wires had loosened and backed out of the connector for the multifunction switch. The guy reported no brake lights, turns signals, etc.

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I'm lucky that there are no connections in-between, just straight runs from the multifunction switch to the front turn signals and rear brake lights / turn signals. The rear tail lights run with headlight which makes sense as they are powered off the brown wires that come from the headlight switch and not the multifunction. The connector for the multifunction switch doesn't have much slack, and I read that after say 25 years even using the tilt on the steering wheel can pull wires from the connector enough that they don't make contact. I also saw you can bypass the switch with a multimeter to determine if the runs from the connector to bulb are ok.
 
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96dreamer

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There is also a spot where the clutch can rub through the harness if it sags at all. I had the same thing happing in my car. It's upper the dash near the firewall and it will blow fuses seeming randomly if it rubs through the harness.
 

01silverstang

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There is also a spot where the clutch can rub through the harness if it sags at all. I had the same thing happing in my car. It's upper the dash near the firewall and it will blow fuses seeming randomly if it rubs through the harness.
I’ll check that too… but I went through every fuse visually and with multimeter and they are all good.
 

01silverstang

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Seems I scared everyone off with the electrical issues lol.

So here is where I am at after last night.

I switched my multimeter to read voltage, and with accessory power on I measured the lower prong on the brake switch and got 3.34v. I then measured the top prong and got 0.01v. I then depressed the brake switch and did the test again, bottom was 0.01v and top was 0.01v. So this seems to confirm the brake switch is bad, as when depressed the voltage should move from the bottom prong to the top.

The other issue is 3.34v seems very low, I tested it at the fuse and both sides of the number 9 fuse showed 3.34v so it's at least consistent from fuse block to brake switch. There was something from the alarm tied into this wire before the fuse block and it measured almost 12v at the tie-in, which I tapped up so it wouldn't ground. So I'm going to buy a new brake switch today, and see what happens. I'm getting to the end of my technical ability with this, and may have to take it to a shop if this doesn't fix it.
 

01silverstang

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OMG it was the interior lamp fuse in the engine bay, I must have missed it. I found a more detailed fuse diagram that showed it protected the brake pressure switch. I tested it and sure enough it was blown, replaced it with the proper size 25 fuse and now the 9 fuse has full power and everything works. Big sigh of relief.
 

01silverstang

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So, I haven’t posted in a bit, because my last “victory” was short lived. I’ve been plunged down the electrical rabbit hole. I’ll try to outline what happened, and would love to get some feedback from those more experienced with this stuff.

Prior to finding the blown fuse in the engine bay, I had worked through the multifunction and brake switch. While looking into this I discovered and old Viper alarm, it was old enough that Viper didn’t even have a wiring diagram on their website. I removed it, and figured once I got through the brake lights / turn signals / hazard issue I would go through and clean up the sections it had tapped into.

In order to check the multifunction switch, I needed to remove the cover from the steering column. The lower is easy as it is held in by screws, the top requires removing the ignition cylinder. I didn’t realize I needed to disconnect the battery, so I removed it and replaced the cylinder. I then found the blown fuse for “Interior Lamps,” which I replaced and the first issue was fixed.

This is where my new issues began. That evening I went to reinstall all the panels I removed trying to troubleshoot and to get the car put back together. I still didn’t realize the battery needed to be disconnected. While putting the top cover back on the steering column I got weird feedback through the speakers. Got it buttoned up, and then spent sometime trying to figure out the proper orientation for the ignition cylinder. Finally got that sorted, ACC, Lock, Run, Start. However, when I put the car in run… the gauge lights (speedo, tach, etc.) no longer light up, the warning lights are dim, and the car won’t start.

None of the power issues occurred prior to the last time I put the cover on the column.

I checked the battery and got 12.6v, then checked in engine fuse box and the fuses measured good for continuity but only had 7.6V, the interior fuse box had little to no voltage.

I discovered this when inspecting the cable from the battery to the fuse box. Not sure if this is my issue, as one measured good for continuity, and the other did not… one measured battery voltage and the bad one measured no voltage.

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Could a wire have gone short to ground at the column, and the increased power flow blown the fusible link without blowing any fuses in the boxes?

The no start I’m pretty sure was the white / pink wire from the ignition switch that was run through the Viper and ended up disconnected after removal. I’ve soldered it back together, and have new 12-gauge fusible link arriving today.

Really want to be done with electrical and back to finishing things up so I can drive the car. Would love to drive it this weekend as its going to be full sun and 80’s.
 

CobraBob

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Electrical gremlins can be energy draining for sure. I hope you get the new issue resolved tomorrow so that you can enjoy the weekend.
 

01silverstang

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Electrical gremlins can be energy draining for sure. I hope you get the new issue resolved tomorrow so that you can enjoy the weekend.

Found a charging diagram and apparently the links connect the voltage regulator to the fuse box. Finding the right size ring terminal and appropriate size butt connector has been a pain in the butt connector lol.

The negative battery cable terminal was loose as a goose and is now tightened up thanks to a few whacks of a hammer… and with the starter wire reconnected I’m hoping once the links are done I’ll be back on the road.

I will say I have learned a ton about electrical even if I didn’t want to lol.
 

01silverstang

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So just updating that as of Saturday evening, all problems fixed and the Cobra runs again. I should have just bought a micro butane torch from the beginning, soldering became a piece of cake with the torch.

I soldered the fusible links together on one end and attached them to the circle terminal and then used heat shrink on the end. The other end was attached to the voltage regulator cable with a butt connector and some linesman pliers, followed with additional heat shrink. I don't think the fusible links were the problem, but they needed fixed and now they are.

I think the low power issue was the negative battery cable, it had enough ground to do weird stuff but not enough to properly power everything. Once tightened and reinstalled, I had 12.59v at battery, 12.59v at engine fuse box, and 12.59v at interior fuse box. The gauge lights worked which was a good sign. I also reconnected the starter wire which was run through the Viper alarm to cut starter when armed. Turned the car to run and heard the fuel pump, turned to start and it fired right up.

Now back to searching for my suspension clunk and getting some new tires so I can enjoy it this summer.
 

01silverstang

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Been a little while since update, ordered some Nitto NT555 G2's for it on Friday. Once those are installed, I'm going to hook up the go pro and try to isolate where the suspension noise is coming from... these are really the last two things that have been holding up my ability to drive it whenever I want. In the fun department I'm also going to be ordering some stainless steel Flowmaster Original 40 series mufflers. This thing is just too quiet at idle... and after attending Bleed Ford Blue Fest on Saturday, let's say I've been inspired lol.

Current Exhaust for reference (Stainless Flowmaster Super 44's):

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I've only seen one new GT500 out driving, never in this color.

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I tried to take my son's picture with the GT500 thinking he would like that one better, but he chose to stand in front of the GT350. This thing had a huge puddle of oil under the front, and left the show pretty hard. I actually saw it broke down on the side of I-80 when leaving. Thankfully it was just a flat tire.

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My son's favorite car of the show, instagram: @Boosted347 Hudson told me the foxbodies were scary, lol!

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Final shot, instagram: @b_notch92 and instagram: @blueovalmedia showing off two of the cleanest foxes you will find anywhere.
 
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01silverstang

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Just an fyi, the stainless flowmasters use stainless sheet metal but the welds are not stainless, so they still rust.
I will only be driving the car in the summer/fall... is it still worth it to go stainless over regular for longevity?

BTW I grew up outside KCMO, and lived there until 2013 when I moved to the Chicago area with my wife.
 

ZD302GT

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I never had a problem with the mild steel versions. I know people had them rust out from the inside out but that has never happened to me. A few years ago I built a new exhaust for my 93 and decided to splurge for the stainless versions and was pretty disappointed that they were not completely stainless. They come painted as normal and with the welds not being stainless you are not going to be able to have the aesthetic of having a nice shiny muffler.

Pretty cool! KC is a good place.
 

01silverstang

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I never had a problem with the mild steel versions. I know people had them rust out from the inside out but that has never happened to me. A few years ago I built a new exhaust for my 93 and decided to splurge for the stainless versions and was pretty disappointed that they were not completely stainless. They come painted as normal and with the welds not being stainless you are not going to be able to have the aesthetic of having a nice shiny muffler.

Pretty cool! KC is a good place.

The difference in price ended up being $10/muffler so I kept the order in... no 40 series flowmaster is "pretty" lol so not a big deal. I know they don't look or necessarily perform as well as some other alternatives, but they have always been the quintessential Mustang exhaust to me.

Yeah KC is great, I miss Joe's / Gates BBQ... its also amazing just how many automotive performance companies are based out of KC (Procharger, Aeromotive, Weld, etc.)
 

01silverstang

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I finally got my new tires installed this past weekend (Happy early birthday to me) and it was quite the experience. The weather he has been trash for the last week, and we have more rain this week hopefully clearing to sun for the 4th of July and my birthday on the 5th. That being said tide, time, and tires wait for no man.

Now some of you may think I'm crazy but I took Casper to Walmart. I had been searching for a while and there were either limited expensive options at Pep Boys / Firestone or larger but still expensive options at Discount Tire. I was able to order Nitto 555's for the best price I could find, and installation with road hazard was $102. I stayed right there to monitor and everything when fine.
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The only thing I would have done different in the future is going with 255/40/18 for the front, instead of 245/40/18... it doesn't look great and it doesn't look bad, for the price I'm ok with it. The rear are 275/35/18.

I experienced another issue with my turn signals and brake lights, that was able to be fixed in an evening. I never stopped to ask myself before why the fuse was blown... I found what was suggested that the wires were being rubbed by the clutch arm causing a short to ground, got it wrapped in 3M 33 tape, and popped off the plastic retainer so it could hang away from the clutch arm and all good.

Finally, on my longest drive to date I did experience another issue. After driving the car for maybe 5-10 minutes after getting gas, I decided to do a short pull in first gear. At WOT above 3k rpm but well before redline or rev limiter the car just abruptly cut out. Like no power, fell on it's face... scared me a bit when it happened and I immediately let out. Drove fine the rest of the way home. I checked the charge pipe couplers and everything seems connected. The spark plugs are new NGK TR6 gapped at .030, the 02 sensors are new NGK OEM sensors which are the recommended brand. I know I should check fuel pressure at the rail, and data log (I'll be buying an SCT X4 in the next week.) However, any ideas? Seems like a fuel issue to me, the previous owner advised it sat for about a year before I bought it. I do have a new fuel filter I need to install. Not sure on fuel pump, but it has green top 42 lbs/hour injectors.
 

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