I don't remember what a stock k-member looks like at the A-arm mount. Since you are putting a lot of stress on the chassis/suspension, do you think it would be worth while to box-in the outside of the mount?
98 Cobra dedicated track build thread
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I don't remember what a stock k-member looks like at the A-arm mount. Since you are putting a lot of stress on the chassis/suspension, do you think it would be worth while to box-in the outside of the mount?
I don't remember what a stock k-member looks like at the A-arm mount. Since you are putting a lot of stress on the chassis/suspension, do you think it would be worth while to box-in the outside of the mount?
Eventually will be going to a MM k member so putting time and energy into this one isnt my top priority.
MM specifically states in their instructions to cut this out, if it was necessary they would have pointed it out so I'm thinking it will be just fine for now. If I have issues with it bending or flexing I may get a k member sooner than anticipated.
Looking good! You may not have this problem with the higher rate springs but I had an issue after hooking up the sway bar with the car not being on the ground. I found that hooking it up in the air put some preload on the suspension and messed with the ride height being uneven
Now I only hookup the sway bar if the car is on the ground.
Now I only hookup the sway bar if the car is on the ground.
Ya you have to cut that piece out to run the MM A arms on the stock k member. I ran that setup on mine for a year before I got the full k member. The cross brace on the A arm will hit that area of the k member if you dont cut it out. I never had problems with mine and all aftermarket k members look like they just have tabs welded on for the A arm. If anything the stock piece is still more braced even after being trimmed.
nice!!
With the way these rotors are only partially swept by these calipers, they're ALL garbage. I never go to a track day without two spares. They make good canopy weights too
Got the car back up in the air again today....
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Previously I made a hacked version of a bump steer kit.... Needless to say it was horrible and I wasn't doing it 100% correct so I solved that issue.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
this process is very time consuming as setup is the most important piece. Car needs to be level in the air, brakes need to be tied off and away, sway bar needs to be removed, springs also removed to let the suspension travel freely.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
And of course logging everything makes for a good way to track your progress.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
In the end I stayed well under the recommended .020" of bump steer per inch of travel.
Next step is to go take the car to my welder friend and make a device to hold my weights. I am adding weight to bump into the TA-A class. After that is done I will go back to the alignment shop to get the car aligned to Maximum Motorsports specs they gave to me.
Previously I made a hacked version of a bump steer kit.... Needless to say it was horrible and I wasn't doing it 100% correct so I solved that issue.
this process is very time consuming as setup is the most important piece. Car needs to be level in the air, brakes need to be tied off and away, sway bar needs to be removed, springs also removed to let the suspension travel freely.
And of course logging everything makes for a good way to track your progress.
In the end I stayed well under the recommended .020" of bump steer per inch of travel.
Next step is to go take the car to my welder friend and make a device to hold my weights. I am adding weight to bump into the TA-A class. After that is done I will go back to the alignment shop to get the car aligned to Maximum Motorsports specs they gave to me.
Ht10 I believe is what they are but I wouldn’t recommend them.
Go with the Raybestos st47
Any suggestions on what specific compound to run? Experiences?
Raybestos will be my next pad as I have seen a lot of guys run them and they all run that st47 pad and it grips and doesn’t kill rotors.
Unfortunately, no. My experiences with Mustangs have not involved turning left or right.
I have used their stuff on other platforms. They have several offerings and fluid as well. Give them a call and they can give recommendations. Pads are inexpensive and consumable. Trial and error until you find what works best for the weight of the car and your driving style.
I have used their stuff on other platforms. They have several offerings and fluid as well. Give them a call and they can give recommendations. Pads are inexpensive and consumable. Trial and error until you find what works best for the weight of the car and your driving style.
Unfortunately, no. My experiences with Mustangs have not involved turning left or right.
I have used their stuff on other platforms. They have several offerings and fluid as well. Give them a call and they can give recommendations. Pads are inexpensive and consumable. Trial and error until you find what works best for the weight of the car and your driving style.
221 for a pair of pads isn't horrible. might give them a shot after I finish off the ones that are on the car.
I plan on getting the 5121 pads for my '97 (the only street use pad they make). Looking to do a brake flush and SS lines also. I honestly don't remember what's on it now. I don't drive it much and I haven't had a problem with the brakes, they are just old and should be replaced for safety sake.
I hope you have a good experience with them.
I hope you have a good experience with them.
I used Carbotech for years, and liked them, moving up from AX6 in the early days to XP10's and 12's. But after that, ST47's were a revelation and I'd never go back.
Spent a little time at the dyno day for classing this year. Last time I dyno'd it made 240. The car weighed in at 3500 so I was hoping to add some ballast weight to get my power to weight to 15 so I could compete in TA-A however it dyno'd at 255 this time around after the IRS was dropped in. The rules state only 250lbs of ballast weight so it looks like I need to put this thing on a diet and maybe add a few ponies.
I will probably do some bullies and an off road x pipe and see where that gets me. I have plenty of stuff to remove to lighten up the car.
I will probably do some bullies and an off road x pipe and see where that gets me. I have plenty of stuff to remove to lighten up the car.
Cobra's looking great. Keep up the good work.
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