98 Cobra On3 Turbo street car build

5.0calypso93lx

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It lives :)

Still have a lot to do before I have the car tuned, but glad to have it running. I hope to get a revised tune from my tuner this week.

I also don't think the clutch is disengaging so there is that :) I swapped to a Spec twin disc over the winter which the instructions say are a direct replacement of a stock style clutch. I knew something was off when I barely have any resistance on the clutch pedal when pushing it in so need to figure out what's going on there.

 

5.0calypso93lx

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I think I have the clutch issue figured out. The MM quadrant only has one hook which worked perfect for both of the different single disc clutches I had in the car with the MM / OEM Ford cable and fwa. This go around the cable was just too long and even with the fwa adjusted all the way out there was hardly any pedal effort until the very end and it wasn't disengaging the clutch all the way.

I've since swapped to a UPR triple hook quadrant and move the cable end to the farthest hook on the quadrant and I now have a pedal and almost no slack down at the fork. And yes I am running the little spacer piece that MM provides on the end of the clutch cable at the quadrant side.

The other good news is that I have my remote tuning session scheduled with my tuner tomorrow evening at 7:30pm. He will log into my laptop and Holley remotely and begin getting the car running better. Once I know everything is working well and running well I'll start buttoning things up, cleaning up the wiring, put the front end back on and get the car ready for the street tuning.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I think I have the clutch issue figured out. The MM quadrant only has one hook which worked perfect for both of the different single disc clutches I had in the car with the MM / OEM Ford cable and fwa. This go around the cable was just too long and even with the fwa adjusted all the way out there was hardly any pedal effort until the very end and it wasn't disengaging the clutch all the way.

I've since swapped to a UPR triple hook quadrant and move the cable end to the farthest hook on the quadrant and I now have a pedal and almost no slack down at the fork. And yes I am running the little spacer piece that MM provides on the end of the clutch cable at the quadrant side.

The other good news is that I have my remote tuning session scheduled with my tuner tomorrow evening at 7:30pm. He will log into my laptop and Holley remotely and begin getting the car running better. Once I know everything is working well and running well I'll start buttoning things up, cleaning up the wiring, put the front end back on and get the car ready for the street tuning.

now that you say that - i have the mm quadrant as well and couldnt get the stock cable to work, ended up using an adjustable cable.
 

5.0calypso93lx

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now that you say that - i have the mm quadrant as well and couldnt get the stock cable to work, ended up using an adjustable cable.
Yep. I thought about going that route, but I had nothing but stretching problems with a UPR adjustable cable I had years ago and it never worked right. I wanted to try and do everything possible to keep the OEM / MM cable.
 

5.0calypso93lx

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Didn't get very far with the tune unfortunately. The oil pressure sensor is showing max high pressure error and the MAP sensor is showing -14.6 psi with key on, engine off, which also isn't correct. So i've definitely got some wiring issues I need to figure out. I'm still learning and I tapped into the oil pressure signal wire for the stock gauge cluster oil pressure. That is a big no no so I'll be removing that tap and going with a standalone oil pressure sending unit somewhere.

I also still need to figure out the tach wiring as the stock tach doesn't work. There is a blue wire off the Holley, but apparently that is just for an old school tach or shift light, etc. It doesn't work with the stock cluster tach. So I either need to tap into the crank sensor wire on the Holley engine harness or look into doing an MSD tach adapter.

More to come :)
 

5.0calypso93lx

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Good news. Removed the tap from the oil pressure signal wire on the Holley harness and I now have oil pressure showing (I knew engine had good oil pressure already).

I also was able to get the map sensor figured out and got it working. So now everything except now my fans aren’t kicking on… So off to go troubleshoot that :)
 

Tabres

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I do. It’s just a modified stock engine, trans and starting harness though. And some of the things Ive done have been undoing his work because of specific things I have on my car (that i specifically told him about. Battery in trunk, wire tuck, dakota digital corrector device are examples).

I haven’t been super pleased with the customer service after purchase to be honest. It’s been a lot of “I cant remember your specific year, try connecting that loose lead to this” type of stuff. If Im being honest he was who told me to tap into the oil pressure sensor wiring on the Holley and after reaching out to a couple local wiring guys that is a big no no. I feel like im more of a burden to him at this point so I basically just gave up asking for help from him.

That's really unfortunate to hear. I see him recommended a lot of places.

I went prodash in my car from the getgo and never had to deal with any of this.
 

5.0calypso93lx

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That's really unfortunate to hear. I see him recommended a lot of places.

I went prodash in my car from the getgo and never had to deal with any of this.
I went back and edited my post as I do have to give him credit. I had some questions about the coolant temp issue I'm having and he had me call him and walked me through a couple options. I'm still working through those options / troubleshooting.

The 96-98 cars are weird in the sense that they have 2 coolant temp sensors. One for the cluster and one for the ecu. If you don't tap into either of those sensors you have to add a 3rd sensor (lol) to the car. Which is what I did. I have the OEM ecu coolant temp sensor in the driver side head port(of the On3 coolant crossover delete fitting), Low Doller sensor (3/8 NPT Coolant Temp Sensor PN: 25036979) for the Holley ecu in the passenger side head port and the OEM Ford cluster sensor in the thermostat housing as that is the least important of the 3 sensors.

The issue I'm having (and may not even be a real issue) is that coolant temp is quickly rising (i'm talking 1-2 mins of idling) on the Holley software when I start the car. When I say rising I mean 240+ degrees. I went ahead and ordered a thermal temperature gun to get a more accurate reading of actual coolant temp vs what the gauge is saying. One thing I found is that my Holley harness has a GM style coolant temp connector on the harness which I've learned did not come this way (I bought the Holley 2nd hand off Mustang Lifestyle YouTube channel guy). I either have a scaling issue of the sensor itself or there is something wrong with the wiring going to the sensor. More to come.

I'm finally getting some time today to work on the car. Kids sports has kept me very busy here lately.

Today's goals:

-Pull trans and figure out what is going on with the clutch (I'm getting a hard rotational thumping when I have the clutch pushed in and trying to start car).
-Redo oil drain line off the turbo. It's really tight in this area so I used a 90 degree fitting on the pan side of the hose and I think that's my issue as I'm getting lot's of oil smoke out of the downpipe.
-Figure out the coolant temp sensor issue
 

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