_Lariats 97 Cobra build.

chao5.0

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Oh yeah you can pull and replace the stock heads in car without removing the HB, but it makes it a lot easier. I pulled my entire top end with the engine in the car, never again. I'm also selling all my modular stuff and sticking a BBF in so I will see how much easier or harder it is to work on it then. My guess easier since I'm motor plating it and stripping the car of everything.
 

_Lariat

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Oh yeah you can pull and replace the stock heads in car without removing the HB, but it makes it a lot easier. I pulled my entire top end with the engine in the car, never again. I'm also selling all my modular stuff and sticking a BBF in so I will see how much easier or harder it is to work on it then. My guess easier since I'm motor plating it and stripping the car of everything.
Why bbf?

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_Lariat

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I think I know how I'm going to correct the issue for fuel rail hold downs. I'm going to cut the rail at the red marks, and add a plate around the spot marked.
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_Lariat

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Well after a spendy trip to MMR's website, I hope to be going before the first of the year. I've got some work to do. Buddy just picked up an LS swapped RX7.

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scottydsntknow

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Yeah his plates kick ass. I'd say that hg was toast lol. You could always run the 99/01 rails and run a deadhead regulator.

2000 Steeda GT #0048. 4V swap, FTBR IRS swap, suspension/tune.
 

_Lariat

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Yeah his plates kick ass. I'd say that hg was toast lol. You could always run the 99/01 rails and run a deadhead regulator.

2000 Steeda GT #0048. 4V swap, FTBR IRS swap, suspension/tune.
I did have to do some grinding on it, and the intake runner to get it to fit. I thought it was odd, but I'm running an 04 mach intake as opposed to a 99/01 cobra intake. I did get the rails rigged up to get the car to run. They're not pretty, but work for what I'm wanting to do.

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_Lariat

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Figured I'd post some photos of what I did to the fuel rail mounts. They're ugly as sin, but I figured there will be enough wiring in the area to kinda hide them, plus I dont plan on keeping stock fuel system forever. Bonus pic of drop on ready intake!
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scottydsntknow

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Nice man, doens't look too bad at all. Ive seen some pretty shitty welds on cars over the years, yours look fine. Paint it black and put some COP wires there and you'll never see it. And it looks good. Surprised there was grinding on that plate but w/e, looks like it works as advertised. I'd let USMCHIEF know about it at least.

Hope you get it up and running soon, and that B upper really is the best looking NA intake manifold. I was trying to get ahold of him when I was doing my 4V swap because I had so many spare B head engine parts at the time including 3 B intakes and two B IACs. Was going to keep one and do a B upper/C lower just for aesthetics and I had the whole B EGR setup too but he wasn't answering PMs or posts so a Mach intake is on the car lol.
 

_Lariat

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This is all I really had to do to make that adapter fit. Not hard to do. Take your time with a grinder and buffing wheel. Not terribly fond of the SAE threading on the holes for the upper lid, but beggars cant be choosers. All in all, it is an amazing product, it saves hundreds of dollars, and keeps my stuff looking fly as can be!
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96dreamer

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Intake's looking good. I had to do the same grinding on mine and took it a little further. At the time i was spraying nitrous and was worried about fuel puddling so I took out any extra material on the adapter plate and epoxied in the transitions on the intake lid to adapter.
This is after it was ground down and extra material around the gaskets removed.
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20150514_193232_zpsojzuavbp by tlaster1429, on Flickr
I took both gaskets and traced the id on the gasket in sharpie. Anything colored in black in this picture was extra material I removed.
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20150330_182546_zpson6ouwxq by tlaster1429, on Flickr
This was the upper after applying spash zone 2 part epoxy. It is ugly but shouldn't be going anywhere, it's the same stuff marinas use to repair boat hulls. All the areas filled in would have been a flat shelf coming from the upper lid to adapter. I mainly did this for fuel pudding but figured it should help out with turbulence as well. I didn't get a picture after cleaning it up.
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20150504_174558_zps6dsrlqnr by tlaster1429, on Flickr
 

scottydsntknow

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Odd that he wouldn't just have them cut like that from the jump. Oh well still the only game in town.

2000 Steeda GT #0048. 4V swap, FTBR IRS swap, suspension/tune.
 

_Lariat

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Intake's looking good. I had to do the same grinding on mine and took it a little further. At the time i was spraying nitrous and was worried about fuel puddling so I took out any extra material on the adapter plate and epoxied in the transitions on the intake lid to adapter.
This is after it was ground down and extra material around the gaskets removed.
View attachment 153674920150514_193232_zpsojzuavbp by tlaster1429, on Flickr
I took both gaskets and traced the id on the gasket in sharpie. Anything colored in black in this picture was extra material I removed.
View attachment 153675020150330_182546_zpson6ouwxq by tlaster1429, on Flickr
This was the upper after applying spash zone 2 part epoxy. It is ugly but shouldn't be going anywhere, it's the same stuff marinas use to repair boat hulls. All the areas filled in would have been a flat shelf coming from the upper lid to adapter. I mainly did this for fuel pudding but figured it should help out with turbulence as well. I didn't get a picture after cleaning it up.
View attachment 153675120150504_174558_zps6dsrlqnr by tlaster1429, on Flickr
Makes me feel better knowing that. I like how you epoxied the lid in. I thought about doing something similar. I may go that route in the future, I may not. I am planning on going boosted, and have a different idea for an intake setup.
Odd that he wouldn't just have them cut like that from the jump. Oh well still the only game in town.

2000 Steeda GT #0048. 4V swap, FTBR IRS swap, suspension/tune.
In reality, it's not surprising. Looking at how the adapter lays out, it will need to be done irreguardless. I honestly think thats the reason a sheet of 1/2" aluminum was used as opposed to 1/8", or 1/4". There are tradeoffs to be made in the ordeal.

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