AC Dilemmas

ERod123

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Recently, while driving, my AC stopped working. I tried refilling the AC and it worked for a little bit until I turned it off and then back on and no AC again.

I checked the AC clutch and it was shot, and so was the bearing on the AC pulley. I have replaced the AC coil, pulley w/ new bearing, and AC clutch; however, the AC clutch does not engage and upon checking the connector, is not getting a signal.

Earlier today I noticed coolant coming from a hole near the lower passenger side firewall:
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Could I have lost refrigerant due to a leak at the core, and therefore the computer does not send a signal to the AC coil?
When I tried turning the shaft on the compressor, it would spin freely and then at a certain point would increase in resistance to turn it.

Anyone know how these two issues can be tied together? Any ideas?
 

Crimson2v

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That liquid coming from the drain should be condensation from the evaporator. It should be just clear water. If it has dye in it, the evaporator core is leaking. If you have no power at the compressor when switched on, I would check your fuse.
 

ERod123

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I checked fuse 23 under the dash and it was good. I then noticed liquid dripping onto my driver side footwell. Heater core is definitely leaking so I put a heater core bypass in for now.

I believe I also have refrigerant leak somewhere. I want to refill my ac with refrigerant but if my ac clutch doesn't engage, how do I force it to engage? Or can it be refilled with the AC off?

Where does refrigerant typically leak? I only noticed a small amount on the low pressure port, where the pin was slightly misaligned but I realigned it. Idk where else itd leak.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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you need a set of gauges to figure it out whats going on or you're just chasing your tail. Get a HF coupon and pick up a manifold set then find a chart for pressures at given ambient air temps.

The pressure in the freon can will force an initial charge, once you overcome the low pressure witch the compressor will begin cycling and start drawing in more. You can get a dye kit, put a little bit of the dyed oil in it then once you run if it if leaks out you can use the yellow glasses and blacklight flash light to look for the dye.

i dont know about common failures on these cars in particular but a punctured condenser, bad valve on one of the ports or anywhere that might rub.

If pressures check out ok you can usually use a paperclip to jump the lower pressure connector and then the high pressure one to double check for a bad sensor
 

Crimson2v

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I checked fuse 23 under the dash and it was good. I then noticed liquid dripping onto my driver side footwell. Heater core is definitely leaking so I put a heater core bypass in for now.

I believe I also have refrigerant leak somewhere. I want to refill my ac with refrigerant but if my ac clutch doesn't engage, how do I force it to engage? Or can it be refilled with the AC off?

Where does refrigerant typically leak? I only noticed a small amount on the low pressure port, where the pin was slightly misaligned but I realigned it. Idk where else itd leak.
You are going to have to start fresh. Recover what’s in the system now, get a nitrogen tank and fill up the system with 150 psi of nitrogen. Spray around the components with soapy water and that will help find the leak. Once you fix the leak, I would put an orifice tube and dryer on it since you had a leak. If your orifice tube has a bunch of aluminum shavings in it I would replace the compressor and condenser too. You will also need to add some pag oil to the new components. Once your at this point get a vacuum pump and pull a vacuum for at least 45 minutes. Then charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant. You won’t need the compressor to turn on to fill the system, and it won’t turn on until the pressures start climbing.
 

94 Cobra R

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Pretty sure the orifice tube in all foxes, including ours, is built in the line.

If you had a “misaligned” valve, sounds like it needs to be replaced. My High Pressure port valve was leaking.


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shurur

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As mentioned above, your first new tool is a set of AC gauges and manifold. You are just guessing and shotgunning parts without those.

If pressure to each side of the compressor looks good, it could be a switch not allowing the compressor to start.

If the compressor is dead, it is a good idea to just replace it, along with the dryer/catch can/accumulator and the orifice tube.

If you see anything like black stuff in the lines, it means the compressor crapped out and put metal into the lines. The condenser needs to go too, because it has become a filter for those metal shards from the compressor.

IMO it is honestly better to just replace everything and be done with it.

The only thing you do want to keep is the evaporator. To get to that..the dash has to come out and the HVAC housing needs to be taken apart. Be very careful removing the hoses to the evap.

Good kits: www.discountacparts.com
Diy:
 
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hotcobra03

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Watching thread to see what you find,

I started having issues with intermittenting ac,

Works when it wants,

As of now,I have ran power directly to clutch to run ac ,,to see that it works and gets cold ,

I haven't tested anything yet ,but thinking of just adding a relay and bypass ccrm,
 

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