Hey guys, I swapped a '04 Explorer longblock in my Sn95 GT a few years ago. I used regular Prestone antifreeze.. I installed a Tork Tech supercharger kit, pretty sure the lower manifold is aluminum, and again used Prestone antifreeze for both the engine coolant and the blower coolant.. I have both cooling systems drained right now as I'm swapping out radiators. Is it a good idea to run the "orange" antifreeze? I'm honestly not sure what the '04 aluminum explorer block calls for, but I think the orange is for aluminum engines. Just wondering before I go ahead and put more Prestone yellow/green coolant in it. Also, what does the stock 03/04 cobra come with for the intercooler coolant? Thanks.
Do a very thorough flush and you can run any antifreeze you want. It is compatibility with other antifreezes that is the issue not compatibility with aluminum or iron. The G-05 is a superior antifreeze that protects against corrosion better than green and also does so longer before having to be replaced. If you completely flush out the system so no old antifreeze is remaining, you quite literally can run any antifreeze type you decide is best you.:beer:
Thanks, Jimmy. I have Zerex G05 HOAT here I plan on using for both the engine coolant and inter cooler coolant. Both are drained, the radiator is brand new. My only worry is whats in the block. Any suggestions as to how I can flush it? I may just fill it with distilled water and drain it after a few drives. I really don't want to drain the block as I know it makes quite a mess.
When I intend to completely change the coolant I just flush the rad and block with tap water. Fill and drain rad three times letting engine warm up completely each time. Then, after that is all done you need to get rid of the tap water. So drain the rad again, fill with distilled water and repeat the fill, warm and drain process three times. Finally drain the rad one last time and fill with straight antifreeze. Use exactly one half the quantity that the cooling system holds. The top off with distilled water. That will give you a total change and you will end up with an exact 50/50 mixture. Since the engine generally holds a little less half the total quantity, adding pure antifreeze for half the total volume and topping with water will give you a finished 50/50 mixture.
The heater core is by passed, the radiator is brand new. I just have to get the rest out of the block and I'll be good to go!
Good advise, I have used this method many times then checked with an antifreeze tester(specific gravity), just to be sure. Make sure you guys running distilled are using a 50/50 antifreeze mixture to keep that very aggressively corroding form of water subdued. Do NOT run distilled in high water percentage mixtures or straight water. If you are running a high water percentage for better heat transfer, use bottled filtered DRINKING water. It is much less corrosive than distilled.:beer:
How much better is drinking water vs tap water? Would you suggest a product like Water Wetter when running all water? Thanks.
Tap water is all over the map, some of it is fine and some of it is extremely hard and almost as bad as most well water. IE; loaded with minerals. It is definitely OK for flushing, but for your final fill unless you have a reverse osmosis drinking water system there are other better choices than tap water. Yes, though my suggestion would be Purple Ice. Purple Ice is a better and more current wetting technology and has better corrosion protection. However RL water wetter is certainly better than nothing, because straight water or a very high water percentage will go right after soft metals.
I'm slowly switching over all the vehicles under my care to this (in order to get away from the silicate precipitation found with Ford Gold coolant):
What is the concern with the silicate precipitation in the Ford Gold coolant? I've run the gold and have switched to green.
Under heat and pressure the additive package (silicates) in the Ford Gold and Green coolants can precipitate out as a solid. That solid is abrasive and can wear away seals and damage water pump impellers, not to mention clogging oil coolers. The photo below is a bit of an extreme case but should give you an idea what I'm talking about:
I'm not sure if all green coolants will precipitate out there add packs, but I know the Ford green coolant will. Ford makes a coolant flush specifically designed to clean out silicate.
I ordered it from a local parts store, but I think a lot of big truck shops keep it. It's OEM in many big diesel engines. I'm going to see if Camping World has it today.
Also, if you wanted to stick with a Ford coolant their new orange/red coolant is pretty good stuff. It comes in pretty much all of their new cars and trucks.