I have the eibach pro-kit. I think it's a good compromise. I could go lower if it was possible to tuck the exhaust closer to the body.
No they would not affect handling at all. You can look if the previous owner left the stock ones out on your car. You should see rubber on both top and bottom of the springs, these are the isolators. If you do not have them, either OEM rubber or poly ones will help your situation. Rubber breaks down with age, so they might be there but compressed or even warn thru. Some people run heater hose over a coil or 2 on the springs too as an option.From what you know, would they negatively affect handling at all?
You got some very good lowering spring options that shouldn't be too low. A ton of Terminator owners here have installed lowering springs so I'd choose a set that gives you the minimum drop. Research coil-overs before you commit to them. You may prefer lowering springs. Less costly and a simpler option. Coil-overs are nice if you want to fine tune your right height, but you're more looking for a minimal drop. Like the H&R Race Springs.
Mine is about 26" in the back. I don't remember the front. My buddy was obsessing after installing his Vikings. That's the only reason I remember the back.
You'll need some kind of 4 bolt caster/camber plate for the front set up if you go coilover. I'd be surprised if KW doesn't have their own set up for that. You shouldn't need anything from MM if you go KW. Provided KW has the plates.
I'm running the MM kit and I'm pretty happy with it. I think I need to up my rear spring rate, but that's another thread. I do think about swapping to Vikings at some point though.
Which configuration are you running for the mm kit?Mine is about 26" in the back. I don't remember the front. My buddy was obsessing after installing his Vikings. That's the only reason I remember the back.
You'll need some kind of 4 bolt caster/camber plate for the front set up if you go coilover. I'd be surprised if KW doesn't have their own set up for that. You shouldn't need anything from MM if you go KW. Provided KW has the plates.
I'm running the MM kit and I'm pretty happy with it. I think I need to up my rear spring rate, but that's another thread. I do think about swapping to Vikings at some point though.
If you're wondering about springs I'm running 300lb in front and 475lb in the rear. I'm running stock type Bilsteins all around. They were rebuilt at one point, but I think I stuck with stock valving. I did this a few years ago and probably have well over 20k on it.Which configuration are you running for the mm kit?
Do you have a measurement for the front?
CobraBob has a good point and at this point I’m kinda thinking the kw coilovers are gonna be overkill. I’m not planning on tracking, all I do is some random highway pulls.
Only that’s actually pretty good. This is the only pic I have of mine from the side but the pro kit def looks higher. Esp the front.
All in all, I’m heavily leaning towards the mm starter kit part# SBX-4. With some bilstein shocks and the eibach pro kit springs. Includes the cc plates and isolators. Thanks for the help guys. Talked me out of spending around 2k Canadian. Lol.Only that’s actually pretty good. This is the only pic I have of mine from the side but the pro kit def looks higher. Esp the front.
Don't worry, we'll talk you into spending more on something else.All in all, I’m heavily leaning towards the mm starter kit part# SBX-4. With some bilstein shocks and the eibach pro kit springs. Includes the cc plates and isolators. Thanks for the help guys. Talked me out of spending around 2k Canadian. Lol.
Yup,I think H&R has a spring that is not too low. Race version I believe it is. Where are you finding that the car is scraping mostly? The verts have a brace under the front that attaches to the kmember which I found to scrape under much speed with a good dip in the road. Mid pipe will scrape usually on anything more that low speed bumps/speed tables. Sometimes the exhaust can be loosened, pushed up and tightened, and that may help give a little additional clearance in that area. The verts also have a softer spring rate from the factory. Hard top factory springs are a little firmer.
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Mine is definitely higher up front. Keep in mind mine is a 01 so it has an aluminum block and no supercharger.Only that’s actually pretty good. This is the only pic I have of mine from the side but the pro kit def looks higher. Esp the front.
All of these beer cans need themYup,
The vert top springs are spec'd to not shake the vert loose. The coupe springs with a FLSF on the vert should be fine.
FTBR advises FLSF be installed on the verts.
Bro I cudnt decipher the acronyms lolYup,
The vert top springs are spec'd to not shake the vert loose. The coupe springs with a FLSF on the vert should be fine.
FTBR advises FLSF be installed on the verts.
FTBR: Full Tilt Boogie RacingBro I cudnt decipher the acronyms lol
First time hearing that phrase..going to pocket that one along with.."the fifth spring" and "the pie tin."All of these beer cans need them
All in all, I’m heavily leaning towards the mm starter kit part# SBX-4. With some bilstein shocks and the eibach pro kit springs. Includes the cc plates and isolators. Thanks for the help guys. Talked me out of spending around 2k Canadian. Lol.
I'm stealing this as well. What an accurate representation of these chassis.All of these beer cans need them