Best stock replacement speakers?

blackcoyote13

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I'm looking for some quality stock replacement speakers which will put out some clear mids and highs, nothing ear shattering, just looking for a nice improvement from stock.

I dont want to run another amp, already have a sub in the back. Most of the speakers I find have high RMS power requirements. When I checked around, most people say you need to amp them or you risk damaging the speakers when you turn them up. Are there any which will deliver a very nice sound improvement for an affordable price and without risking damaging the speaker from the low OEM HU output? I have the stock 4 speaker setup, no Shaker system/etc. I have already dynamatted the doors completely, which helped.
 
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96svtdriver

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Kicker Audio 6x8 Speakers

2 pairs of these and call it a day. They have the factory connectors on them so they're plug n' play if you don't want to mess with the wiring. Honestly I ran these for a week or two on the Shaker 500 factory setup and while it sounded better, I wanted way more. I ended up just doing a zx350.4 amp, 4 farad cap, LOC and ran my own wires. Well worth the time and effort.

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/ka-amp.htm

You could also consider this Shelby amp that is designed to either work with the factory amp or replace it entirely. I have NAV and Shaker so I couldn't use this piece, but I've heard its a considerable improvement over the factory amp.
 
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dirtyd88

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I think I might try out the Polk db571s I removed from my truck when it was totaled. Anything should be better, and those had a nice clarity upgrade from my truck speakers.
 

blackcoyote13

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Are the Pioneer TS-D6802R's better than the TS-G6844R's? My brother has the TS-G6844R's and they are a tiny smidge better than stock, but not much.
 

Mugzy

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I think I might try out the Polk db571s I removed from my truck when it was totaled. Anything should be better, and those had a nice clarity upgrade from my truck speakers.

I've heard decent things about these. I also remember reading about Infinity Kappas.

Just get something with minimal power requirements. If you go out and get a pair of speakers that needs 75+ watts then you may be disappointed.
 

rdplain

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Infinity Reference 6832CF
They can be had for under $50 a pair on eBay.

I installed these in a buddy's '13 Boss all the way around, and it made a huge improvement in clarity. The boss has the same base system as the 300/301A cars. We also added the Shelby/Kicker sub in the trunk a few weeks after.

I also changed out just the fronts on my sisters '13 vert with the shaker system. Really cleaned up the front stage, not nearly as muddy.

If you are not going to be adding an amp, I would go this route. I have Infinity Kappa 682.9CF running in my base GT, that are being fed plenty of power, and they ROCK!

I have also run the Shelby/Kicker 6x8's, and while they are decent speakers, they are not worth the premium price IMHO.

The infinity's also have a rotating tweeter, you can aim the tweeters to bring the sound stage up towards the ear.
 

Poppacapp

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Kicker Audio 6x8 Speakers

2 pairs of these and call it a day. They have the factory connectors on them so they're plug n' play if you don't want to mess with the wiring. Honestly I ran these for a week or two on the Shaker 500 factory setup and while it sounded better, I wanted way more. I ended up just doing a zx350.4 amp, 4 farad cap, LOC and ran my own wires. Well worth the time and effort.

Shelby Kicker 4.1 Channel Amp

You could also consider this Shelby amp that is designed to either work with the factory amp or replace it entirely. I have NAV and Shaker so I couldn't use this piece, but I've heard its a considerable improvement over the factory amp.

I LOVE the idea of plug and play. The factory Shaker 500 system imo sucks.. The factory system in my Lexus was unreal sounding compared to this. Would this system work with the Shaker 500? The sub that comes with it I was wondering if the 500 systems have the wiring hookup in the rear even though we don't have the sub like the Shaker 1000's.
 

slagburn

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How about for shaker 500???

What he said.. I don't wanna garbage up the OP's thread, but there aren't too many audio threads here so.. I have the 13 shaker pro and it's decent but could use a little enhancement. I guess the rear sub is only ~200 watts. Not looking to enter any db drags but would like a little more volume at times. Kind of surprised there aren't any adjustments to the rear line level. Front speakers are the same shaker or shaker pro, correct?
 

CharlieR

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$$$ wise I'd lean toward the Infinity co-axial, they are extremely efficient, and their 2Ohm rating will coax a lil more power from the radio( 12 watts :lol:)

For the record: I don't exactly like my Infinitys but they are way better than factory.
 

kingnut

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Kicker Audio 6x8 Speakers

2 pairs of these and call it a day. They have the factory connectors on them so they're plug n' play if you don't want to mess with the wiring. Honestly I ran these for a week or two on the Shaker 500 factory setup and while it sounded better, I wanted way more. I ended up just doing a zx350.4 amp, 4 farad cap, LOC and ran my own wires. Well worth the time and effort.

Shelby Kicker 4.1 Channel Amp

You could also consider this Shelby amp that is designed to either work with the factory amp or replace it entirely. I have NAV and Shaker so I couldn't use this piece, but I've heard its a considerable improvement over the factory amp.

damn, they charge double just because its factory plug and play.
 

grnenvy

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This is one area that that I'm about 15 years out of date on. My convertable has the Shaker 500 system and I want to put the best speaker possible but don't want to run any more amps. I haven't dug into the car but is there an external amp in my car and if so where do they hide it in a convertable? I can't remember but I thought I remember seeing an amp behind the trunk cover linings when I dynomated my trunk area. Also there are two speakers in each door do I change them both with the Infinitys? What about the rears what do I do?
I know one thing from years ago if you don't run an external amp u need to becareful which speaker u choose because it will sound worse do to the factory head unit not producing enough amps. Help would be appreciated.
 

CharlieR

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This is one area that that I'm about 15 years out of date on. My convertable has the Shaker 500 system and I want to put the best speaker possible but don't want to run any more amps. I haven't dug into the car but is there an external amp in my car and if so where do they hide it in a convertable? I can't remember but I thought I remember seeing an amp behind the trunk cover linings when I dynomated my trunk area. Also there are two speakers in each door do I change them both with the Infinitys? What about the rears what do I do?
I know one thing from years ago if you don't run an external amp u need to becareful which speaker u choose because it will sound worse do to the factory head unit not producing enough amps. Help would be appreciated.
I was in the same boat, hadn't done anything "stereo" in 18 years. Research helped I got the base but still got info on S-500 & S-1000/Pro.
The Shaker 500 system has the same 6x8's as all the mustang systems(coaxial in doors, full range(complete with 1976 wizzer cone :lol:) in rear. On 10-up cars these are powered by the headunit(about 12 watts@1% distortion, claimed in marketing as 40 per.) these are where the infinitys go(replacing the rears would be optional as you'll never hear improvement from them in front). The "Subs" in the doors are powered by an amp(Claimed @ 170 per, actual is <70@1%) this is where my info got cloudy I was never able to determine if the "subs in the S-500 system had any crossover, some said 700hz and below, some said the speakers natural roll off is it). Finding an 8 inch sub to replace the door "subs" that will fit and work with <70 watts from the factory amp proves to be "difficult" to say the least. The S-1000/Pro adds a True Subwoofer and a 2nd amp(claimed @500, actual is 165@1%).

So if you want "more bass" from your S-500 You're gonna be disappointed in "speaker replacements keeping factory amps", but if you just want a little clearer/louder mids and highs the Infinitys(Most any aftermarket 6x8 coaxial will be sensitive enough to "add volume" and quality enough to sound better too) will make you happy.

P.S. Too little power in itself doesn't hurt a speaker but trying to get them "louder than physics/acoustics allows" causes clipping which will hurt one. It will take a while with the factory 12 watts but it can do it.
 
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Tuffnuts23

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Replacing the door speakers in a '13 will require a speaker bracket from an earlier model. They changed the door speakers for the '13 from a composite speaker to a component speaker.

Edit: At least they did for the GT premium, not sure about the base model.
 
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mhyjek

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Replacing the door speakers in a '13 will require a speaker bracket from an earlier model. They changed the door speakers for the '13 from a composite speaker to a component speaker.

Edit: At least they did for the GT premium, not sure about the base model.
So they are not a 6x8 in the doors? What size are they then?
 

TheVikingRL

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was wondering if the 500 systems have the wiring hookup in the rear even though we don't have the sub like the Shaker 1000's

No, they don't have the wiring but doesn't matter as it's pretty useless anyway.

The Shelby stuff doesn't look very good in a 2010+ as it's designed to match the earlier models. I also think it's a waste for what they change. A few 8" subs will fit in the factory enclosure and allow you to retain the factory grill but you will need to run them off of an aftermarket amp. Or just tap into the output for the door subs and run a JL or Kicker trunk sub setup (and amp).
 
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mhyjek

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No, they don't have the wiring but doesn't matter as it's pretty useless anyway.

The Shelby stuff doesn't look very good in a 2010+ as it's designed to match the earlier models. I also think it's a waste for what they change. A few 8" subs will fit in the factory enclosure and allow you to retain the factory grill but you will need to run them off of an aftermarket amp. Or just tap into the output for the door subs and run a JL or Kicker trunk sub setup (and amp).

So can you swap the factory amp and run different 8s in the doors? Do you know which ones will fit in the door? And do the 13s have component speakers in the door?
Thanks
 

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