Billetflow IRS Brace Issues
- Thread starter BreBar21
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BreBar21 said:
believe me, I don't want this to happen again either, I'll do what I can
First is to find a differant supplier for hardware.
You are very right, the powdercoating should NOT be flaking off. I'll look into this also.
HISSMAN said:
The TQ wrench is fine we used it the next day and it worked fine I am pretty sure the bolts had bad heat treating. The first one we broke looked as if it had a air pocket inside the bolt.
HISSMAN said:
Yeah. One of the one from Lowe's broke. Blown01 is referring to the very first bolt that broke. The first one didn't actually break in half like the other 2. Something strange happened, and I'm not sure what it was. Even though the bolts were not binding, the holes still needed to be tapped. Once we completely tapped everything, it all bolted down.
Yeah. That is your problem then. You should have tapped the holes first. I had to tap mine. If you are threading a bolt and have any resistance (enought to snap a #8) then you should always consider tapping instead of forcing it.
dougwg said:
I Never saw the "FINAL" results; however, he posted this:
Dana said:
http://www.chicagosvt.com/forums/showthread.php3?t=1743&page=1&pp=25&highlight=Metallurgist
post #15
HISSMAN said:
The crazy thing is that there really wasn't any bind before the breaking. For anyone else that is going to install the brace, I would tap all the holes before putting it on whether it's binding or not.
dougwg said:
I don't think so, I am not an engineer though. A bolt torqued to 24ft/lbs in a hole and you have 24 ft/lbs of resistance between the bottom of the head of the bolt and the item directly under the head. This resistance is split between the bolt stretching because the bolt threads are trying to go deeper into the hole (thread resistance) and the bolt rotating between the threads where engaged in the hole and the head of the bolt.
On the other hand if a bolt bottoms out in a hole or is clamped in a vice there is no bolt stretch, all 24 ft/lbs is trying to rotate the bolt and snap it.
Actually the most accurate way to torque, or should I say tighten a bolt, is not by torque, it is by bolt stretch.
The following web search may be interesting:
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=bolt+stretch+torque&fr=FP-tab-web-t&toggle=1&ei=UTF-8
That's why it is easy to snap a bolt if you are in a blind hole and the bolt bottoms out.
My .02 cents
Vince
dougwg said:
Threads have a lot to do with it as Mr. Mysti said.
You get most of your torque from the friction between the head of the bolt and the torqued joint. If he was torquing to 24ft-lbs and the bolt was not seated it would be very easy to snap it. That puts all of your torque directly into the bolt in pure torsion.
Seen it happen thousands of times.
Regardless, its not a problem with the brace or the bolts.
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Metro1 said:
Please continue to read the entire thread before you post inane comments. I believe everything was answered. You have not a clue what you are talking about. Thank you, come again.Edit: Since reading isn't your strong suit, I'll do the leg work for you. Please refer to post #37.
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BreBar21 said:
Edit: Since reading isn't your strong suit, I'll do the leg work for you. Please refer to post #37.
I have read all three pages post by post and I just have to agree with Doug. If it was ME I would have wanted to talk to Doug before bitching about stuff.
Just my 2 cents.
Metro1 said:
How could I contact him?? It was Sunday, I don't have his cell phone number, and I was in a pinch. Like I said before, I don't really know what he could have done. Was he going to drive to Florida to pull the broken bolts out of my differential? I was looking for help from whoever could help me. For the second time, THINGS LIKE THIS ARE WHAT FORUMS LIKE THIS ARE FOR. I am done with this and you can keep your .02. :fm:
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