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Bizarre problems after Clutch Assist Spring Removal

Discussion in '2013-14 Shelby GT500' started by Husky44, Jun 6, 2013.

  1. Husky44

    Husky44 New Member Established Member

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    Took the assist spring out last night. Easy job, no issues, everything seemed to go back together correctly. Finished up at 10 pm, couldn't think of a good reason to go for a drive, so I didn't do a test drive last night.

    Went to leave for work this morning, and car won't start. key on, everything lights up, but starter won't crank. Must be a problem with the switch. Remove it, put it back in, still won't start. Hold the plunger down by hand, and car fires just fine (trans in neutral, e-brake on). Late for work, so I figure I'll fool with it tonight.

    Get on the highway, and cruise control won't set (turns on, light on dash turns yellow, but can't get it to hold a setting). I'd read that people had problems with it not disengaging when pushing the clutch in, but hadn't seen this issue.

    Next problem-go to exit the highway, and notice while sitting at the light that my Traction Control Off light, and another yellow traction control idiot light were both on (both lights in the speedo, didn't realize there were two different ones?). LC is also on. I could shut LC off with the dash button, but couldn't get TC to turn back on, pushed the console button several times, and no change. Got to work, shut the car off, re-started it, and the TC seemed to be working normally.

    Anybody else have these kinds of problems?

    I'm guessing the no-start issue is because the pedal isn't pushing the plunger all the way in now, but am pretty sure I got the switch re-installed properly (snapped in, it clicked, did it twice, just to be sure).

    Not sure what's going on with the TC and cruise control?
     
  2. Myfast70

    Myfast70 Active Member Established Member

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  3. Snoopy49

    Snoopy49 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    It sounds like you removed the wrong switch. There are 2 different switches, the top switch (cruise control) is the one you needed to remove. The bottom switch (starter interlock) does not get touched.
    As far as the starter, check and see if the rubber bumper is still there, it may have accidentally popped out.
    If you did not remove the top switch, you probably broke off the plunger when you pulled the pedal out to remove the spring.

    Clutch Interlock Switch 2.jpg

    Cruise Control Clutch Switch 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
  4. jream

    jream mods, DAMN peer pressure! Established Member

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    couple questions...

    1. is this the proper rotation of the plug when u push down to remove it?
    2. does this rubber piece stay connected to the bracket when you pull the switch out? or does it have to come with everything?

    clutch.gif
     
  5. Snoopy49

    Snoopy49 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    You have to push down and rotate to the left (counterclockwise) looking down from the top. The opposite direction you show. From the bottom view you would turn to the right towards the center of the car. Make sure you pull the switch completely out of the hole and then lay it on top of the bracket. Don't remove the rubber bumper.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2013
  6. jream

    jream mods, DAMN peer pressure! Established Member

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    ok, thx
     
  7. Husky44

    Husky44 New Member Established Member

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    Crap. Definitely took out the Starter Interlock switch... Will have to check when I get home.

    The rubber bumper is still there, I did check that. I read the other link (wonder why it didn't show up when I searched before I started this post?). May have to try adding some tape or something, although I kinda like the idea of having to push it by hand--would be great theft deterrent, if it were just a little easier to reach.
     
  8. Norton

    Norton Long-time SVT Enthusiast Established Member

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    Before removing my spring, I inserted labels (matching Snoopy's instructions) on the picture he posted and sent it to him for validation. Here's a copy of what I used to avoid trouble:

    [​IMG]

    I would have posted it sooner, but figured I was the only one who needed a more detailed roadmap...
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2013
  9. Snoopy49

    Snoopy49 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Norton,
    I changed one of the pictures in the link you posted and also added a note to help clarify exactly which switch needs to be removed. I also added the picture you posted. Hopefully this will help someone in the future.

    Thanks
     
  10. Husky44

    Husky44 New Member Established Member

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    Can I suggest one more big arrow to the ignition interlock switch that says "DON'T TOUCH THIS!"

    :nono:
     
  11. Norton

    Norton Long-time SVT Enthusiast Established Member

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    Good deal! Thanks, Snoopy!

    Looks like Snoopy did exactly that. (Sorry I didn't post the labeled picture sooner.)
     
  12. Snoopy49

    Snoopy49 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Husky,
    I think I got it covered.
    Was the cruise contol switch damaged?
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2013
  13. 72MachOne99GT

    72MachOne99GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    "White Plastic Piece"

    ...... are we brothers?

    Mines still working fine, just requires extra pressure to engage clutch for a start.
     
  14. Husky44

    Husky44 New Member Established Member

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    Not only did I damage the switch, but I busted the plastic piece that it mounts to. :cuss:

    I'll go back out tomorrow and figure out how to fix it
     
  15. railroad

    railroad Well-Known Member Established Member

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    After reading of the issues some have, I was afraid they were twisting the switches by the electrical connector, because it provides more leverage. The results are as Husky reported. I guess Snoop will have to put a caution in the instructions to help avoid this issue. I doubt this switch is exclusive to the 13 and 14, so maybe it will be an easy swap. Maybe we can get the procedure "fool proof" and get a sticky of just the procedure. We know Snoop can provide quality pics and instructions.
     
  16. Snoopy49

    Snoopy49 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I made some changes to the instructions. Check them out and let me know if there is anything else I can add that will improve the procedure.

    Instructions

    Here is a link to the replacement switch.
    Cruise Control Switch
     
  17. Husky44

    Husky44 New Member Established Member

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    I didn't twist the switch at all. I took the wrong one out. My situation is a good example of why you need to remove the switch. Apparently when you pull back on the pedal to remove the spring, it applies too much force to the plunger, pushing the entire switch up, in my case breaking one of the ears off the switch, and cracking the plastic piece that the switch mounts to. It had nothing to do with how it was twisted.
     
  18. Devious_Snake

    Devious_Snake PSR Major! Established Member

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    bumping....

    got mine out. Everything works fine, car starts, engagement is great. But after few minutes of driving I am getting the service advance track light. So all nannies show being turned off. Otherwise everything is good. Thoughts? I checked underneath and everything looks good but I will check again tomorrow with fresh eyes
     
  19. Husky44

    Husky44 New Member Established Member

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    Does it look like this?

    WP_20130607_001_zps83772d63.gif

    trying to figure out why mine is doing this. Cruise control switch does not appear to be the issue. Also noticed today that my redline is dropping to 6250 when these come on. Start car when warm, no lights, 7k redline, Traction control button works fine. Randomly, or at least for no reason or cause that I've been able to discern, these lights come on, redline drops, and TC button stops functioning. Also looking for help!
     
  20. Devious_Snake

    Devious_Snake PSR Major! Established Member

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    yeap looks just like that. I did not notice if the redline dropped. Car ran fine though.
     

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