Bob's Auto Sports' - New Oil/Air Separator "Catch Can"

[fcettner]

Zak - The KR has a notch across the hood to allow fitment of the brace. I used billet lowering mounts to lower the engine 1.5". I had to use some spacers on the inside 4 studs to allow room for the blower.
Later, Fred

 

[zporta]

yea i was wondering because i saw how much higher your air filter shield was then mine.

once the weather gets nice we will have to meet up at a cars n' coffee or some other meet

 

[fcettner]

Roger that.

 

[Steve@BAS]

New colors ready for immediate shipping.

Piano black powder coat, silver powder coat, and carbon fiber. The powdercoating and hydrodipping done by our forum favorite Brian!

These can be ordered from Van at Revan racing, Revan Racing, Inc. - Performance Parts for Late Model Mustangs or from Bob's Auto Sports

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Man, those things look amazing. Excellent job!

 

[E.Marquez]

Im sure they do, i'll try to track some down next week!

Sir; great looking product you have....
Are you tapping these for 1/8" NPT? 1/4" NPT" 3/8" NPT?

Thinking of using

Aeroquip fittings in AN10 to NPT 3/8"

Or maybe the nickel plated ones

 

[slocum1946]

Here's my set up on a KR with KB 2.8 with your catch can installed. Close fit in engine bay..

]

fantastic looking engine bay!

New colors ready for immediate shipping.

Piano black powder coat, silver powder coat, and carbon fiber. The powdercoating and hydrodipping done by our forum favorite Brian!

These can be ordered from Van at Revan racing, Revan Racing, Inc. - Performance Parts for Late Model Mustangs or from Bob's Auto Sports

your catch can is a superb piece!

 

[Steve@BAS]

Man, those things look amazing. Excellent job!

Thanks!

Sir; great looking product you have....
Are you tapping these for 1/8" NPT? 1/4" NPT" 3/8" NPT?

Those Aeroquip pieces look great.

Cans are tapped for 3/8 NPT

I use fittings that go to barb. I will see if aeroquip makes them to barb for similar price, as I don't want to increase retail price. I can always supply cans without fittings for those that want to run 3/8" NPT to AN and use those fittings with their own lines. :beer:

your catch can is a superb piece!

Thanks!

 

[gerbie28]

Very nice indeed

 

[E.Marquez]

Thanks!



Those Aeroquip pieces look great.

Cans are tapped for 3/8 NPT

I use fittings that go to barb. I will see if aeroquip makes them to barb for similar price, as I don't want to increase retail price. I can always supply cans without fittings for those that want to run 3/8" NPT to AN and use those fittings with their own lines. :beer:



Thanks!

Thanks for the response..and info.

The AN fittings are completely overboard of course, as we are only moving low pressure air and one end will be a barb fitting in any case without some custom machined fittings.. Which I’m not opposed to, but in order for me to spend that kind of time at the mill and lathe,, it would have to be for a race or a show car..

In the end, the SS hose is for looks only, barb fittings and tube clamps dont work great on SS hose,,, But a thin band of 3M Polyolefin heat shrink tube at the end of the hose to keep the SS wire braid from unraveling works ok.

One of the socket less hoses from Aeroquip, Earls, Russell may be a better idea.. “look’s” better then plain black hose. Earls “Super Stock” hose, is designed for their barbed sockless fittings.

They make it in blue, the -10 size with an inner ID of .63 would work just fine on the 5/8 barbs you supply, or another brand type of barbed fitting.
Earls fittings has both 45 deg (AT 984410ERL) and 90 deg( AT 984210ERL) barb to NPT.. BUT the 5/8 hose size is a ½ NPT male.

If some bling is wanted, then a -10 AN to 3/8 NPT adapter, with -10 AN hose end using socket less hose would look nice.. at the other end, the socket less hose will fit the OEM barbed fittings just fine, and you can use a screw clamp from Russell, or Earls for a different look.

Bottom line, all of that above is a fast way to spend EDIT: A crap load of $$$$ in parts and hose, to end up with no better performing set up then you are providing at a great cost. It would all be just for looks.
epper:

 

[E.Marquez]

Earls parts, priced from JEGS..... MORE $$ then I thought it would be.

1 EA -10 AN 45 deg female to 5/8 Hose fitting PN 704611ERL $25.00
1 EA -10 AN 90 deg female to 5/8 Hose fitting PN 709111ERL$25.00
2 EA 3/8 NPT to -10 male adapter 981611ERL $6.00
Blue -10 “Super Stock” hose PN 791010ERL $51.00
2 EA Econo Fit Hose clamps (for the non can end) $10 each
Red 900110ERL blue 900210ERL chrome 900310ERL black 900510ERL

Or
-10 AN 45 deg to 3/8 NPT 824511ERL $33.00
-10 AN 90 deg to 3/8 NPT 829011ERL $33.00
3 ft -10 AN perform-o-flex 403010ERL $23.00
2 EA Econo Fit Hose clamps (for the non can end) $10 each
Red 900110ERL blue 900210ERL chrome 900310ERL black 900510ERL

Or
4 EA Econo Fit Hose clamps (for the non can end) $10 each Blue 900210ERL

Blue -10 “Super Stock” hose PN 791010ERL $51.00

 

[NuclearPower]

Just got my Bob's can today, ordered from Van. Really like the look and feel of is compared to the JLT...

The black that I ordered didn't look the way I expected though. Should have waited for the piano black I guess. Mine is more of a flat dull looking black.

Great product none the less that I will let folks know how much it collects...:beer:

 

[Steve@BAS]

Just got my Bob's can today, ordered from Van. Really like the look and feel of is compared to the JLT...

The black that I ordered didn't look the way I expected though. Should have waited for the piano black I guess. Mine is more of a flat dull looking black.

Great product none the less that I will let folks know how much it collects...:beer:

If you want to exchange it no problem, just pay the shipping. You can call me on Monday 8am-5pm 813-247-7040 or pm me or email [email protected]

Now that I have seen both the anodized coating (what you have) and the powder coated, I will only be selling powdercoated.

 

[NuclearPower]

Thanks for the offer for exchange...I might have to send the whole thing back though...

Has anybody out there installed this on a 2011+???

This is why it is not working

The 2 ground wires is not letting me install the brakcet. I would have to mount the ground on top of the bracket and since it is aluminum I am not inclined to do that. The wire bundle can not be moved enough to allow the bracket to lay flat. I lays on the wire bundle. The wire does not have enough slack to rotate it around the other direction to allow it lay correctly. Am I an idiot here????HELP!!!:??::bash:

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I would get out the soldering iron, and crimping tool.

Make the lead towards the front of the car longer so that you can move it to the connecting position near the battery.

 

[Steve@BAS]

Thanks for the offer for exchange...I might have to send the whole thing back though...

Has anybody out there installed this on a 2011+???

This is why it is not working

The 2 ground wires is not letting me install the brakcet. I would have to mount the ground on top of the bracket and since it is aluminum I am not inclined to do that. The wire bundle can not be moved enough to allow the bracket to lay flat. I lays on the wire bundle. The wire does not have enough slack to rotate it around the other direction to allow it lay correctly. Am I an idiot here????HELP!!!:??::bash:

You just have to mount from the front hole/wire.

 

[NuclearPower]

Tried mounting from the front hole and it will not work. There is not enough slack in the ground wire to rotate it enough to fit under the bracket. The wire needs to rotate about 90 degrees to the drivers side to allow the bracket to lay on the flat portion of the crimp, otherwise it cocks the bracket at a slight angle and doesn't tighten the ground very well. I had to use washers to lift the bracket high enough to clear the crimp. Talked with Van and he suggested looking for another ground location, but there was not another spot that the original wire could reach. That left me with either what Beast recommended (making wire longer) or another Van suggestion of undoing the wire loom to see how much more slack I could get. Neither of which I am crazy about doing on a 2012 with a 100k warranty.

Therefore I used 4 washers under that bracket to lift it above the crimp, the gold bolt that came in the Bob's kit was still long enough, but it doesn't have that nice finish to it...

It is stable, not as stable as planned, but...any others out there with a 2011+??? Any other suggestion Steve (Bob's)???:??::??::shrug:

 

[Steve@BAS]

On mine I put the ground on top of the oil separator bracket. The little 'tab' on the ring terminal I bent flat. If you wanted to, you can cut the tab off so it's just a round ring terminal to go 'extra' clean. I've had no connectivity issues with the ring terminal on top of the bracket if you are worried about that.

 

[NuclearPower]

Yes, the connectivity issue is exactely what I am concerned with. Haveing the ground go through the aluminum bracket is what I was concerned with. I thought that it might take too much away from the connection and cause other issues. If you have it on top and have not had any ground issues...that is what I was looking for. Thanks for the support.

 

[Steve@BAS]

No problem, glad to help. And offer still open if you want to swap for piano black always!