I have a 1991 351w out of a 91 F-250.Can you guys recommend a good budget build for this engine?Wanting to run in the mid 11's to high 10's, in the 1/4 mile.I'm putting the engine in a 94 gt chassis. I already have built rearend with 4:10 gears and am planning on an AOD trans.But if you guys thick a C-4 would be better let me know.The car will be mainly a strip car and gutted with 90/10 shocks up front and 50/50s on the rear with drag launch springs.I'm new at the pushrod small block stuff.Any information on budget built a 94 5.0 or the 1991 351W would help.thanks
budget 351w
- Thread starter venomouscobra98
- Start date
should be easy with a moderately built 351.
Since it is mostly a drag car, I would go with a 10:1 compression. If your budget allows I would do a stroker set up. A HCI build should get you well into the 400rwhp. I would also go with a C4, easier/cheaper to build and lighter. The key will be for you to set up your suspension correctly for good 60' times. It looks like your off to a good start with that, but I would call JPC for advice with that. They do a great job with drag suspension set ups.
Since it is mostly a drag car, I would go with a 10:1 compression. If your budget allows I would do a stroker set up. A HCI build should get you well into the 400rwhp. I would also go with a C4, easier/cheaper to build and lighter. The key will be for you to set up your suspension correctly for good 60' times. It looks like your off to a good start with that, but I would call JPC for advice with that. They do a great job with drag suspension set ups.
I agree with wheelhopper. Although if its mainly a strip car then i would go 12:1 compression,you'll pick up a good amount of power and can run a pump gas race gas mix. I ran 2/1 pump 91/112race in my 12.5:1 408 stroker and had no problems. Also, i would go solid roller since its not seeing much if any street time. You can run a much more aggressive cam that way while still keeping overlap in check and being able to go for short drives when you want. But like Wheelhopper said, if your going through the motor, you might as well put a stroker in it, you gain a lot of power and not spend much more $ over all. You'll need new piston regardless if you bore it (you will likely have to), the rods will need to be reconditioned and have good bolts put in them so you'll have nearly the price of forged rods in the stock ones so you'll only be really "splurging" on a new crank and the beauty of the 351 cranks is if your only making 500ish hp the cast units hold up just fine so no need to go forged if you don't want to. Go 408ci and with a solid roller, good heads, big cam and 12:1 comp and I could easily see 475-500whp and mid/low 10's out of it with the ability to last a LONG time. Also, C4 FTW. There relatively cheap and light and they can take a beating.
Last edited:
I have built 2 "budget" 351W in my earlier fox body days.
1st one:
Stock block .30 over
JE pistons 10:1 Compression
Stock rods (ARP bolts)
Stock crank (turned)
Dart Sr. cast iron heads 2.02 int 1.60 exh
Small cam (i think it was something like .512 int .536 exh)
Victor Jr intake
750 holley carb
Performance Automatic built C-4
3000 RPM stall converter
4.10s
only minor suspension mods:
motorsport C lowering springs
Southside lower rear control arms
sub-frames
stock shock/struts
front sway bar removed
big and littles on M&H drag radials
no other weight reduction
Ran high 11s at 113ish all day
I would say I had maybe $5k total in mods and bought everything new except the block and obviously the crank and rods too.
#2, a little more into to it:
Stock 351W block
Ross 11:1 Compression pistons
used corrillo forged rods
SCAT forged crank
Canfield Stage II ported alum heads 2.02 int 1.60 exh valves
Solid roller cam .602 int can't remember exh but it was a pretty big cam for the street.
Trickflow R intake
This motor ran low 11s at 120+
w/3.55s
I never ran a true slick with either car. Usually saw 1.6-1.7 60's,
Both these sets ups could have went much quicker in the right car. I drove them both ALOT on the street and really were quite streetable. I would drive them to work which was 30 miles one way. No stop and go traffic though. I didn't go with a stroker because i bought used parts and bought what i could get cheap. But if you forge it, stroke it. If you want to go as fast as you can for cheapest don't. Use my first formula and go 11:1 and bigger cam. You are staying fuel injected i assume? You aleady got the suspension going in the right direction. I would go C-4 for sure unless you drive the highway often. I would go hydraulic roller over solid on the cam just so don't have to adjust valve all the time. Although solid will make more power.
1st one:
Stock block .30 over
JE pistons 10:1 Compression
Stock rods (ARP bolts)
Stock crank (turned)
Dart Sr. cast iron heads 2.02 int 1.60 exh
Small cam (i think it was something like .512 int .536 exh)
Victor Jr intake
750 holley carb
Performance Automatic built C-4
3000 RPM stall converter
4.10s
only minor suspension mods:
motorsport C lowering springs
Southside lower rear control arms
sub-frames
stock shock/struts
front sway bar removed
big and littles on M&H drag radials
no other weight reduction
Ran high 11s at 113ish all day
I would say I had maybe $5k total in mods and bought everything new except the block and obviously the crank and rods too.
#2, a little more into to it:
Stock 351W block
Ross 11:1 Compression pistons
used corrillo forged rods
SCAT forged crank
Canfield Stage II ported alum heads 2.02 int 1.60 exh valves
Solid roller cam .602 int can't remember exh but it was a pretty big cam for the street.
Trickflow R intake
This motor ran low 11s at 120+
w/3.55s
I never ran a true slick with either car. Usually saw 1.6-1.7 60's,
Both these sets ups could have went much quicker in the right car. I drove them both ALOT on the street and really were quite streetable. I would drive them to work which was 30 miles one way. No stop and go traffic though. I didn't go with a stroker because i bought used parts and bought what i could get cheap. But if you forge it, stroke it. If you want to go as fast as you can for cheapest don't. Use my first formula and go 11:1 and bigger cam. You are staying fuel injected i assume? You aleady got the suspension going in the right direction. I would go C-4 for sure unless you drive the highway often. I would go hydraulic roller over solid on the cam just so don't have to adjust valve all the time. Although solid will make more power.
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
