Cam covers, AFCO, KB 2.2, 03 Cobra Installation Pictures - Some assembly req.!
- Thread starter sonicmach1
- Start date
Please do update! This is one of the few threads I stay subscribed too.
Shit, nice project. I'm doing the MM thing too, can't decide on standard offset arms or forward. Have the K member, would like to do forward if I know it'll clear ok. Running 275/35/18 up front on 18x9s. Any advice based on your build?
Hello everyone!
Sorry I cannot seem to get time to update the build thread. Suffice it to say, the car is running fine and I have done more work on it. But I still have a ways to go. (Killer Chiller, rear coil overs, and Mammoth kit left to complete).
Sorry I cannot seem to get time to update the build thread. Suffice it to say, the car is running fine and I have done more work on it. But I still have a ways to go. (Killer Chiller, rear coil overs, and Mammoth kit left to complete).
Would love to see some updates! Make the time!
Hey all,
Finally back on my thread. The following is an overview on projects I have done since my last posts and what some new big projects coming are.
RECENT PROJECTS
1. Coating my X-pipe
My long tube headers were ceramic coated, but the mating x-pipe was not. However, the quote from Jet-Hot was $365! (to coat a $230 x-pipe). So I am looking into other options to make it match my polished exhaust and coated headers.
2. Finished installing the last LEDs to replace my brake and turn signal halogens bulbs.
It really makes the car look more modern simply using the instant on/off LEDs. I have some pics and videos comparing the LEDs I used vs the stock halogens.
3. Replaced my 10 year old HID headlights with LED equivalents. This worked out well - I was able to remove alot of extra power wiring, harnesses, and the ballasts. The LEDs were direct plug-in to the stock wiring. I also installed a new turn signal relay to provide normal blinker rate (the stock relay will hyperflash otherwise)
4. Replaced my headlights with new OEM versions.
The specs on the original lenses bothered me.
NEW PROJECTS
1. CLUTCH replacement
My 10 year old Centerforce DF clutch finally gave up a couple weeks ago. I was out cruising with my son and I left a stoplight at about 25% power and after the 1-2 shift I heard a pop and the clutch pedal went soft. I coasted into a parking lot and was able to roll start it in 1st gear. I drove clutchless home for about 8 miles. Eventually I worked up to 3rd gear. I impressed my son with that!
I have the trans out (surprising easy) and the failure was three of the clutch material pucks were broken off, thus making the diaphragm no longer aligned. The disk and flywheel had some hot spotting as expected too.
---> Time to pick out a clutch. I have been dreading this...
The DF clutch had a nice lightweight pedal and good grip, but it could not handle spirited launches since it was dealing with 620 RWHP and Toyo R888R tires. I had a friend with an older Spec 3 and his clutch pedal was very heavy. It would not be fun around town. I think their newer designs may have improved that.
I have my Kenne Bell Mammoth blower kit to install as well so I expect my power to jump another 100 HP or so.
I will probably select a twin disc for the capacity and pedal feel. Which one? McLeod RST, CF DYAD, Mantic, Spec, ACT are options.
2. Input shaft upgrade
I will probably install a 26 spline input shaft, but I need to update myself on the best version. I see that there are differences between Liberty, D&D, McLeod, and Lethal input shafts that I need to review.
3. KB Install, Killer Chiller, Spark Booster, High amp alternator are parts also sitting on the shelf waiting to be worked. I need more free time...
I will update the above with some pictures soon. Thanks all!
Finally back on my thread. The following is an overview on projects I have done since my last posts and what some new big projects coming are.
RECENT PROJECTS
1. Coating my X-pipe
My long tube headers were ceramic coated, but the mating x-pipe was not. However, the quote from Jet-Hot was $365! (to coat a $230 x-pipe). So I am looking into other options to make it match my polished exhaust and coated headers.
2. Finished installing the last LEDs to replace my brake and turn signal halogens bulbs.
It really makes the car look more modern simply using the instant on/off LEDs. I have some pics and videos comparing the LEDs I used vs the stock halogens.
3. Replaced my 10 year old HID headlights with LED equivalents. This worked out well - I was able to remove alot of extra power wiring, harnesses, and the ballasts. The LEDs were direct plug-in to the stock wiring. I also installed a new turn signal relay to provide normal blinker rate (the stock relay will hyperflash otherwise)
4. Replaced my headlights with new OEM versions.
The specs on the original lenses bothered me.
NEW PROJECTS
1. CLUTCH replacement
My 10 year old Centerforce DF clutch finally gave up a couple weeks ago. I was out cruising with my son and I left a stoplight at about 25% power and after the 1-2 shift I heard a pop and the clutch pedal went soft. I coasted into a parking lot and was able to roll start it in 1st gear. I drove clutchless home for about 8 miles. Eventually I worked up to 3rd gear. I impressed my son with that!
I have the trans out (surprising easy) and the failure was three of the clutch material pucks were broken off, thus making the diaphragm no longer aligned. The disk and flywheel had some hot spotting as expected too.
---> Time to pick out a clutch. I have been dreading this...
The DF clutch had a nice lightweight pedal and good grip, but it could not handle spirited launches since it was dealing with 620 RWHP and Toyo R888R tires. I had a friend with an older Spec 3 and his clutch pedal was very heavy. It would not be fun around town. I think their newer designs may have improved that.
I have my Kenne Bell Mammoth blower kit to install as well so I expect my power to jump another 100 HP or so.
I will probably select a twin disc for the capacity and pedal feel. Which one? McLeod RST, CF DYAD, Mantic, Spec, ACT are options.
2. Input shaft upgrade
I will probably install a 26 spline input shaft, but I need to update myself on the best version. I see that there are differences between Liberty, D&D, McLeod, and Lethal input shafts that I need to review.
3. KB Install, Killer Chiller, Spark Booster, High amp alternator are parts also sitting on the shelf waiting to be worked. I need more free time...
I will update the above with some pictures soon. Thanks all!
Really nice comparison! I did the same thing on mine, it makes all the difference.
Don't overlook the McLeod RXT - the twin disc is holding up great in my car (800whp corrected and R888R). No chatter, easy to shift and light pedal effort (especially compared to OE). I was honestly dreading it as well and couldn't be happier with it.
Don't overlook the McLeod RXT - the twin disc is holding up great in my car (800whp corrected and R888R). No chatter, easy to shift and light pedal effort (especially compared to OE). I was honestly dreading it as well and couldn't be happier with it.
Yes the LEDs make a difference - 1) They are brighter through the smoked lenses. 2) The LEDs are also red to increase the effect. 3) They reach illumination quicker than halogens do so the people behind you hopefully see you sooner.
Thanks for the clutch info. Did the RXT require the McLeod adjustable pivot ball that I hear is needed? I am researching the options tonight with hopes of ordering the parts and input shaft by Friday.
@sonicmach1 which LED headlights did you go with?
These:
$50 for the headlights pair.
NINEO 9007 LED Headlight Bulbs | CREE Chips 12000Lm 6500K Extremely Bright All-in-One Conversion Kit | 360 Degree Adjustable Beam Angle
$30 for the pair of fog lights.
NINEO 9005 LED Headlight Bulbs w/Small Size,10000LM 6500K Cool White CREE Chips Hb3 All-in-One Conversion Kit
I also added another O-ring to better seal and prevent them wiggling them to the headlight insertion hole.
I had the HIDGUY HID kit since 2010 and they worked fine except for one ballast replacement needed over 10 years. The LEDs are so much simpler and less expensive.
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I agree totally on the LED upgrade I put them on my Kenworth T880 at work because I run early a lot. Night and day output level difference..... you may notice some radio interference like I did in both my CB and terrestrial but it's easily quelled with inline frequency blockers that are super cheap.
Do these have the hi/low beam as well, as more importantly, do the hi beams work well?
My HIDs had an electromagnet to move the bulb focal point for high/low.
The LEDs Model 9007 do have high/low beams by having two LEDs at different focal points.
I cannot comment on the high beam effectiveness since I rarely use them and it has been awhile since I drove in the dark.
I have LEDs in my 03, but switching to the hi-beams really sucks compared to the low-beams. Hence ther reason I was asking.
Once I get my clutch done I will check out the lights I have..
Get the RXT with adjustable ball and call it a day. Best clutch and lightest pedal.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Clutch setup is ordered so I am cleaning up the other parts for the project. Here is the polishing I did on the TriAx.
BEFORE
I took it apart and cleaned every part then polished it.
BEFORE
I took it apart and cleaned every part then polished it.
Still working on this. Got the oil pan, rear seal plate, most of transmission and bellhousing, crossmembers, and bolts derusted and painted.
I installed the 26 spline input shaft for the Centerpiece DYAD clutch.
I now need to install the Cobra Engineering coolant head kit.
And buy Cobra Bob's @CobraBob shifter gasket and isolator kit now!
I will post some pictures of the work so far tomorrow.
I installed the 26 spline input shaft for the Centerpiece DYAD clutch.
I now need to install the Cobra Engineering coolant head kit.
And buy Cobra Bob's @CobraBob shifter gasket and isolator kit now!
I will post some pictures of the work so far tomorrow.
Hey guys,
Hard to believe I spent 2 years with this latest round of mod updates. As always it snowballed into many more updates. It got its first road test this past weekend. Man does it feel good to go WOT in 2nd gear again (and drive stick).
NEW
DYAD clutch and flywheel
Throw-out bearing, clutch fork, pivot ball, billet bearing retainer, brass shifter ball cup
Tremac 26 spline input shaft, new trans seals, re-shimmed
Cobra Engineering rear crossover coolant kit (AN fittings)
Made a bracket and pad to press against the passenger crossover fitting to insure it would stay aligned as-installed
Made a custom wire harness mount on top of the bellhousing replacing stock one. I made this to allow better clearance with the bulky transmission harness connector and the crossover tube.
New HEGOs
Maximum Motorsports clutch cable insulator
Many new bolts - of course
Added oil pressure transducer
Oil pan gasket and bolts
Rear main seal and oil slinger
Ford Racing HD pilot bearing
Cobra Bob's shifter gasket set
REWORKED
Cleaned entire trans case, painted most parts, cleaned and coated bolts, powder coated trans brace
Modified the transmission harnesses - removed sensors and wires I am not using, rewrapped the entire harness with harness tape, then PET braided covers, all ends used marine heat shrink. Added fiberglass heat loom where needed
New wrap added to the heater return hose, painted end
Rewrapped the starter motor cables as well
Polished the Tri-Ax shifter after disassembly and re-greased
Polished driveshaft and painted yoke and flange ends with POR15 paint
Polished T-stat housing
Ceramic paint coated the X-pipe
Coolant flushed using cleaner until clear
Painted oil pan after using Bondo to fill the spot welded dimples
Painted the rear main seal cover
Probably a bunch more work that I cannot recall right now too...
Running engine test for leak checks
Hard to believe I spent 2 years with this latest round of mod updates. As always it snowballed into many more updates. It got its first road test this past weekend. Man does it feel good to go WOT in 2nd gear again (and drive stick).
NEW
DYAD clutch and flywheel
Throw-out bearing, clutch fork, pivot ball, billet bearing retainer, brass shifter ball cup
Tremac 26 spline input shaft, new trans seals, re-shimmed
Cobra Engineering rear crossover coolant kit (AN fittings)
Made a bracket and pad to press against the passenger crossover fitting to insure it would stay aligned as-installed
Made a custom wire harness mount on top of the bellhousing replacing stock one. I made this to allow better clearance with the bulky transmission harness connector and the crossover tube.
New HEGOs
Maximum Motorsports clutch cable insulator
Many new bolts - of course
Added oil pressure transducer
Oil pan gasket and bolts
Rear main seal and oil slinger
Ford Racing HD pilot bearing
Cobra Bob's shifter gasket set
REWORKED
Cleaned entire trans case, painted most parts, cleaned and coated bolts, powder coated trans brace
Modified the transmission harnesses - removed sensors and wires I am not using, rewrapped the entire harness with harness tape, then PET braided covers, all ends used marine heat shrink. Added fiberglass heat loom where needed
New wrap added to the heater return hose, painted end
Rewrapped the starter motor cables as well
Polished the Tri-Ax shifter after disassembly and re-greased
Polished driveshaft and painted yoke and flange ends with POR15 paint
Polished T-stat housing
Ceramic paint coated the X-pipe
Coolant flushed using cleaner until clear
Painted oil pan after using Bondo to fill the spot welded dimples
Painted the rear main seal cover
Probably a bunch more work that I cannot recall right now too...
Running engine test for leak checks
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