Can’t shift at WOT?

SVT_S5

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I’m fairly new to Terminators but not to manuals, and read a bunch of threads of similar issues I’m having, but couldn’t figure this out.

Yesterday was my first ever 6k RPM pull, I installed a WOTBox and wanted to see what can this thing do as I read it would make your shifts “butter smooth”.

60mph roll in 3rd gear - when I reached 6k I fast shifted into 4th and literally felt a block, like there was a wall in between, said maybe it was the wotbox and drove home.

I plugged my computer to the wotbox today and set NLS to off, tried again and it went to 4th (I guess) but instead of accelerating I revved to like 6k’ish and had the Brake light on the dash comes on for like 2 seconds then went away as soon as I went to netrual.

What’s wrong here? Clutch is McLeod with MGW shifter.
 

CobraBob

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When you say "brake light", are talking about the ABS light or the Brake Warning light?

Check your brake fluid level.
 

SVT_S5

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Bob,
It’s the Parking/side brake light, I’m positive I didn’t touch that thing at all at that speed!

Brake fluid is full.
 

01yellercobra

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You're probably going to have to go with an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster to dial it in. As for the brake light I'd guess the fluid moved around enough to set it off. If the fluid gets low the parking brake light will come on. Or maybe the handle moved enough to turn it on. I had some bad wheel hop at a track and it was enough to make my brake lights flash.

If you saw a green tire that's traction control kicking in.
 

SVT_S5

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You're probably going to have to go with an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster to dial it in. As for the brake light I'd guess the fluid moved around enough to set it off. If the fluid gets low the parking brake light will come on. Or maybe the handle moved enough to turn it on. I had some bad wheel hop at a track and it was enough to make my brake lights flash.

If you saw a green tire that's traction control kicking in.

Yeah maybe the fluid moved around I guess.

As for the quadrant/FW adjuster; I just came across a thread on adjusting the stocker plastic piece, I went under the dash and located it but couldn’t move it, I feared applying more pressure would eventually break it.

Anyone has a how to video on adjusting the stock quadrant, that would be very helpful.


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P49Y-CY

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Stock cable/quadrant.

the stock quadrant's not helping your situation, especially with an aftermarket clutch.

in my experience, whenever it felt like i was hitting a wall at high rpm, it was due to improper cable adjustment (too loose). get an aftermarket firewall adjuster/quadrant.

until then you can try this and it may help, but keep in mind the stock plastic quadrant is very weak and the teeth can strip easily: https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/how-to-adjust-clutch-cable.389553/

that procedure helped me out a lot even though i didn't do any actual cutting or modifying. the key is to manually release the pawl while simultaneously pulling up on the pedal. that is the only way to tighten the cable with the factory setup.

the factory-recommended procedure of just pulling up on the pedal only LOOSENS the cable, it won't tighten it. it is meant to allow the tob to continue to loosely rest on the diaghram fingers as they move outwards/backwards as the disc wears over time.
 

SVT_S5

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the stock quadrant's not helping your situation, especially with an aftermarket clutch.

in my experience, whenever it felt like i was hitting a wall at high rpm, it was due to improper cable adjustment (too loose). get an aftermarket firewall adjuster/quadrant.

until then you can try this and it may help, but keep in mind the stock plastic quadrant is very weak and the teeth can strip easily: How To Adjust Clutch Cable

that procedure helped me out a lot even though i didn't do any actual cutting or modifying. the key is to manually release the pawl while simultaneously pulling up on the pedal. that is the only way to tighten the cable with the factory setup.

the factory-recommended procedure of just pulling up on the pedal only LOOSENS the cable, it won't tighten it. it is meant to allow the tob to continue to loosely rest on the diaghram fingers as they move outwards/backwards as the disc wears over time.

That’s the thread I was looking at.

Could you please explain more? How do I manually release the pawl?

Sorry for the trouble!


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P49Y-CY

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That’s the thread I was looking at.

Could you please explain more? How do I manually release the pawl?

Sorry for the trouble!


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the blue arrow in the first pic is the pawl - it rotates so you want to turn it enough to disengage with the quadrant while you turn the quadrant to get as much "bite" on the cable as you can. you are trying to tighten the cable. it is awkward under there but you will see when you try it.

but either way try to buy an adjustable setup asap because this is just a temporary fix and your first high rpm shift it might slip back again. good luck
 

SVT_S5

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the blue arrow in the first pic is the pawl - it rotates so you want to turn it enough to disengage with the quadrant while you turn the quadrant to get as much "bite" on the cable as you can. you are trying to tighten the cable. it is awkward under there but you will see when you try it.

but either way try to buy an adjustable setup asap because this is just a temporary fix and your first high rpm shift it might slip back again. good luck

Sorry for responding late, I had removed the driver seat so I can “work” freely in there.

Now I understand, thank you for explaining things much further.

I will get a FW/quadrant soon, will try this method for now.


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Roush6018

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i was driving next to a z06 and shifted 3rd to 4th with no problems. at 6k rpms. the clutch needs to fully let go to get the next gear. i recommend adjust your clutch cable so your clutch grabs at least 2" off the floor. go for the middle of the clutch pedal travel. if you are getting the clutch to grab close to the floor that is your problem.
 

SVT_S5

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UPDATE:

So I have adjusted the quadrant and tightened the clutch cable from underneath the car, and problem is still there.


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01yellercobra

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I would replace the stock quadrant with an aftermarket set up. The stock quadrant might be flexing just enough. Plus I think the aftermarket set up can feel smoother.
 

SVT_S5

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I would replace the stock quadrant with an aftermarket set up. The stock quadrant might be flexing just enough. Plus I think the aftermarket set up can feel smoother.
Will do that.

Tomorrow will check trans fluid, cross member and will be doing the anti-venom mod and see.

Hope that would fix it once and for all!
 

01yellercobra

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I'm a fan of the anti-venom mod. I've done it on three transmissions and have had good luck each time. With the MGW comfort handle it shifts like butter.
 

Roush6018

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alright, its good you can check these things on your cobra. i say to try the anti venom mod, check the transmission mount, and top off the transmission fluid.

warm up the car and try to do the 3rd to 4th shift at high rpms, it should shift like butter every single time or you got a problem. good luck i got my fingers crossed!

i hope i can get a video of mine shifting this way this weekend.
 

SVT_S5

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alright, its good you can check these things on your cobra. i say to try the anti venom mod, check the transmission mount, and top off the transmission fluid.

warm up the car and try to do the 3rd to 4th shift at high rpms, it should shift like butter every single time or you got a problem. good luck i got my fingers crossed!

i hope i can get a video of mine shifting this way this weekend.

Thanks!

I’ll check them today if had time, it’s a busy day for me today.. If not, then tomorrow it is!


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01yellercobra

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These cars don't have remote mount shifters. The trans mount isn't as important as it is on later cars. I mean, it's important, but it won't cause misalignment issues with the shifter if it's weak or worn.
 

SVT_S5

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These cars don't have remote mount shifters. The trans mount isn't as important as it is on later cars. I mean, it's important, but it won't cause misalignment issues with the shifter if it's weak or worn.

Wait, really? That would be a bummer because the main suspect to me was the T56 cross member (Stifflers)

Fluid, clutch, etc.. were secondaries.

I say this because (and will explain best I could):

When I’m in 1st gear going 5-10mph, I fast shift to 2nd at that speed w/o removing my foot off the clutch yet, I feel the “wall” and LITERALLY feel a bang under the car coming from the T56.

Low-Mid rpm speed shift: I can beat the “wall/block” and shift but there’s some kind of a bang..

Driving normally: shifts like a dream w/o the clunk/bang and the wall.

WOT high rpm speed shifting with or without wotbox: Impossible to shift!


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