Can’t shift at WOT?

[01yellercobra]

I'm still saying it's a clutch adjustment. I've had two different T-56's in two different cars. First one was a stock 04 clutch with MGW shifter. I ran coastal brand ATF in it and didn't have issues.

My current trans started with the same coastal brand ATF, but currently has Synchromesh for other reasons. It has a McLeod RXT for a clutch. When I originally had the Maximum Motorsports pedal height adjuster I had shifting issues. The pedal didn't have enough throw to fully release the clutch. I've since swapped to a Steeda adjustable pedal stop and all is well with the clutch. I'm not saying I'm a pro at power shifting, but I have no issues hitting gears under WOT.

Both cars had/have aftermarket quadrants and firewall adjusters. They're pretty much a requirement with some aftermarket clutches. FWIW, brand doesn't really matter. It's a chunk of aluminum. I've run MM, Steeda, and UPR. They all work the same. The biggest thing is making sure the quadrant stays aligned to the cable with spacers.

For the firewall adjuster try to find one that has the click adjustment. Set screws suck. And the jam nut style can be a pain.

And stay away from adjustable cables. Stick with stock style cables.

 

[SVT_S5]

I'm still saying it's a clutch adjustment. I've had two different T-56's in two different cars. First one was a stock 04 clutch with MGW shifter. I ran coastal brand ATF in it and didn't have issues.

My current trans started with the same coastal brand ATF, but currently has Synchromesh for other reasons. It has a McLeod RXT for a clutch. When I originally had the Maximum Motorsports pedal height adjuster I had shifting issues. The pedal didn't have enough throw to fully release the clutch. I've since swapped to a Steeda adjustable pedal stop and all is well with the clutch. I'm not saying I'm a pro at power shifting, but I have no issues hitting gears under WOT.

Both cars had/have aftermarket quadrants and firewall adjusters. They're pretty much a requirement with some aftermarket clutches. FWIW, brand doesn't really matter. It's a chunk of aluminum. I've run MM, Steeda, and UPR. They all work the same. The biggest thing is making sure the quadrant stays aligned to the cable with spacers.

For the firewall adjuster try to find one that has the click adjustment. Set screws suck. And the jam nut style can be a pain.

And stay away from adjustable cables. Stick with stock style cables.

First of all,

Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it a lot sir!

I’ll be ordering the FW adjuster, you sure convinced me into that which one do you recommend?!

While waiting for it, I’ll be adjusting my clutch more.. (tighten it or loosen it?!)


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[01yellercobra]

Go with these. It's best to do them together. You can modify the stock cable to work.

It sounds like you need to tighten the cable.

McLeod

Lethal Performance is your high performance warehouse for all your Ford Mustang performance parts and tuning needs! Specializing in Mustang GT, GT500 and SVT Cobra Terminator vehicles since 2004.

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[Shadow Grey 03]

There is a "relief" piece of metal that will loosen your cable if you try and bang gears. Replacing the stock quadrant will eliminate this. I bent the stupid piece of metal out of the way, so it wouldn't mess with the adjustment. There is a thread on it. Not sure if it's the one attached in here already. There were very good pics in that thread too. Only issue is being upside down underneath the column to get to it.

 

[SVT_S5]

There is a "relief" piece of metal that will loosen your cable if you try and bang gears. Replacing the stock quadrant will eliminate this. I bent the stupid piece of metal out of the way, so it wouldn't mess with the adjustment. There is a thread on it. Not sure if it's the one attached in here already. There were very good pics in that thread too. Only issue is being upside down underneath the column to get to it.

Yeah I saw that thread and went under there 3 days ago.

I can’t turn my head to the left now because of that damn quadrant, my whole neck kills me when I do that.

I’m not getting under there anymore, I gave up and ordered a FWA/quadrant, will try tightening the cable while waiting on my FWA once my neck feels better and do the anti venom mode while I’m there.


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[geoffmt]

That’s probably your best bet. I had ‘sticky’ shifting at 7k rpm with an RST on the stock, changed out to a magnum and it’s smooth shifting at 7600rpm. The tick shifter was super tight when new but loosened up with some miles. I don’t foresee any problems in the future with the Overbuilt Tick Magnum (level 5). The standard magnum would have been enough but I just didn’t want to break it. I can’t fix things like I used to, bad back and not flexible anymore so I overbuilt it from the start. These cars are a blast but can very easily create the mod crack habit for more power. I was at 750 before remodel and everything was maxed out to it’s limits of reliability. The anti venom mod works before having to go with a better transmission


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[SVT_S5]

Hey guys just wanted to update after almost 1 and a half months lol

I just installed the Mcleod FWA and quadrant (Thanks @1yellerCobra) and tightened my clutch to like 23-25 clicks!

Well, I didn’t go WOT yet because the Cobra was sitting for almost 2 months in my driveway with the CTEK battery tender connected, wanted to go easy on her for a couple of days; anyways, the “thud/bang/wall/block” or whatever you wanna guys call it is still there (Example: In 1st gear going like 10mph then pressing the clutch to fast shift into 2nd while the clutch is still pressed all the way to the floor)

In normal driving conditions it shifts like it normally would, no ToB chirping or unusual noises, clutch pedal almost has no free-play (went wot on 6th - no slippage to my surprise!)

My guts tells me it still wont let me shift at wot because of the symptoms described earlier, and god I hope l’m wrong and they are not connected.

Now if it doesn’t let me shift at full throttle, what are my options, new pilot and ToB? New clutch? Should I keep tightening the cable using the FWA? I got 3 more clicks using the tip of a screwdriver and a hammer (gently hammering the base of the screwdriver, that’s how much tight my clutch cable is!)

Sorry for the long post gents!


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[Roush6018]

hahaha this brings me back in the day when i had one arm (left arm) pulling the shit out of the clutch cable and my other arm turning the adjuster so hard i thought it was going to work! man its good these mustang havent changed.

i drive my cobra all the time and it shifts perfect now. ok, i will admit when its 50 degrees out and i just started it up, my 1-2 shift is somewhat stiff.. but when it warms up 10 mins later car runs and shifts great!

My car did have problems shifting for so many years (maybe 2-3years) i didn't give up and fixed it the right way.

dang.... i don't really want to give you bad news, maybe you have a ford dealership you can take it to? maybe you have a transmission shop you trust? (someone needs to check the crankshaft thrust free play) and if that checks out good then you can inspect your clutch and transmission.

ok, easy question for you, start up the car and push the clutch pedal in, put it in first gear, when you release the clutch pedal .... where is the pedal at when the car starts to move forward???? is it 1/2" from floor, 2" from floor or 5" from the floor ???

 

[SVT_S5]

hahaha this brings me back in the day when i had one arm (left arm) pulling the shit out of the clutch cable and my other arm turning the adjuster so hard i thought it was going to work! man its good these mustang havent changed.

i drive my cobra all the time and it shifts perfect now. ok, i will admit when its 50 degrees out and i just started it up, my 1-2 shift is somewhat stiff.. but when it warms up 10 mins later car runs and shifts great!

My car did have problems shifting for so many years (maybe 2-3years) i didn't give up and fixed it the right way.

dang.... i don't really want to give you bad news, maybe you have a ford dealership you can take it to? maybe you have a transmission shop you trust? (someone needs to check the crankshaft thrust free play) and if that checks out good then you can inspect your clutch and transmission.

ok, easy question for you, start up the car and push the clutch pedal in, put it in first gear, when you release the clutch pedal .... where is the pedal at when the car starts to move forward???? is it 1/2" from floor, 2" from floor or 5" from the floor ???

I didn’t pay attention to bite point but it’s definitely not at 1/2” or 2”, almost at the top.


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[SVT_S5]

So I took some photos and videos for you guys to check:

That’s how my clutch pedal sits:

And here’s a video of what I suspect is the ToB pushing against the PP at idle, I may be wrong though! Leaving it to the experts/gurus.

When I push the clutch pedal to the floor the sound goes away:


And here’s the bite point:



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[SVT_S5]

So I have an update on the situation, I just did a successful wot pull from 3rd to 4th FINALLY, but the clutch is slipping sometimes

I did a total of 3 wot pulls:

The first pull it went into 4th smoothly and I didn’t continue the pull because I only wanted to check if the gear would catch.

Second pull 50ish mph on 3rd shifted to 4th @5200-5600 flawlessly and kept on it a little.

Third pull on 3rd gear and shifted to 4th with no troubles but it slipped.

Overall I’m very satisfied, finally banging gears after 1 and a half year of not being able to!

Now, I think I’ll need to loosen the cable.


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[Bdubbs]

So I took some photos and videos for you guys to check:

That’s how my clutch pedal sits:

And here’s a video of what I suspect is the ToB pushing against the PP at idle, I may be wrong though! Leaving it to the experts/gurus.

When I push the clutch pedal to the floor the sound goes away:


And here’s the bite point:



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It's normal for the clutch pedal to sit up higher than the brake pedal.



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[SVT_S5]

It's normal for the clutch pedal to sit up higher than the brake pedal.



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Ahhh, good to know thank you!


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