Can you get a better ride with coil overs

shurur

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If I go CO, I am going CO front and rear..400/500 (this is what Bruce at FTBR ran)....or maybe 300/375 for street.
I have the cc plates and strut brace...and shock tower is bead welded with CHE brace bolted in.
 
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FIREBALL

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Sorry..I meant they come with OEM Front COs and OEM standard separate spring/shock combo in the rear as part of their suspension system.

Quite a few cars came that way like my bmw Z3 and some old British cars like the Spitfire.

I'm running a 300lb spring up front with 475xs in the rear.

Isnt a 300-350# coil over spring equivalent to a higher# rating than the stock coil spring?

I had H&R sports on my bmw, that car had about the same ride as my mustang but it didnt pick up as much harshness/noise/vibration from rough roads and irregularities---maybe thats because of front coil overs?

I have the H&R sports with 500 miles on them, they look and are like brand new, will sell at a great price, PM me if interested.
 

01yellercobra

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Isnt a 300-350# coil over spring equivalent to a higher# rating than the stock coil spring?

I had H&R sports on my bmw, that car had about the same ride as my mustang but it didnt pick up as much harshness/noise/vibration from rough roads and irregularities---maybe thats because of front coil overs?

I have the H&R sports with 500 miles on them, they look and are like brand new, will sell at a great price, PM me if interested.

Give or take a couple percent. It goes back to what I posted in the 4th post. Moving the spring from the middle of the control arm to the spindle gives it more mechanical leverage. So it would take a 600lb spring in the stock location to give the same wheel rate as the 300lb coilover. Rough numbers of course.
 

FIREBALL

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Thanks, yeah im getting the leverage thing, Going to have to get M&Ms advice on what CO spring would be the equivalent of being softer than OEM spring (which if I remember right is around 500#)
 

shurur

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Quite a few cars came that way like my bmw Z3 and some old British cars like the Spitfire.
Wife had a 330xi..until I wrecked it..

I had one of those spitfires too!..it was '78.
I sold it to go to tech school.
My dad didn't understand why I got one until he took it for a drive while I was at sea.

He said, "Boy..you could thread a needle with that thing."

As for going COs..I just meant that I would go big....yup 300 CO would be .9(300)x 4 = 1080# for a standard mounted spring....
 

FIREBALL

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SHIFTYBUSINESS

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I have Eibach Pro R2 coil overs on my 13 gt and the short answer is no. It’s more rigid but handles a lot better. If you put low rate springs on so it rides softer than you are really taking away the point of the coil over. It’s a race part and like most race parts comfort is not the goal.


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01yellercobra

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I have Eibach Pro R2 coil overs on my 13 gt and the short answer is no. It’s more rigid but handles a lot better. If you put low rate springs on so it rides softer than you are really taking away the point of the coil over. It’s a race part and like most race parts comfort is not the goal.


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You can handle better and still have a decent ride. It's all about the set up. I don't think the coilovers most of us use would qualify under race parts. Maybe race inspired. But if I was at all serious about tracking my car I wouldn't have the MM set up. Since my goal is canyon carving with long distance driving thrown in I set up for that and it worked out well.
 

shurur

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1080 per spring that seems like a lot. I havent checked with M&M yet (and might not till the spring) but what I was figuring to be a softer ride than stock with a coil over is around 250#, any lower and I think it would be a drag setup.

Here is a good article that explains things, although for me it leaves OC spring rates in question.
2003 Cobra Coilover Suspension Conversion - Coiling A Snake - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine

That is 1080 in the front stock location and 300 in the CO position.

Bruce from FTBR has said he would not go less than 350 CO front for street.
But yes I agree that 250# is a good match to your OEM (470?) rear cut coils in std position.

BTW: You always start good threads.
 
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SHIFTYBUSINESS

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You can handle better and still have a decent ride. It's all about the set up. I don't think the coilovers most of us use would qualify under race parts. Maybe race inspired. But if I was at all serious about tracking my car I wouldn't have the MM set up. Since my goal is canyon carving with long distance driving thrown in I set up for that and it worked out well.

I hear what you’re saying. The op asked if it would be a better smoother ride with coilovers and my experience is no on the smoother, and better well yes if handling is the goal. Coilovers are designed to make the car handle better not smoother or more comfortable. I guess you could put the lowest rate springs on and adjust them all the way back but I don’t see the point. Same thing with changing bushings to a poly style it changes the ride to become more aggressive.


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FIREBALL

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Many factory oem cars have come with CO and not considered for race and many of them had a good ride, It just depends on spring rate and what strut is used. If I go with a softer CO spring rate in the front I realize I may loose some handling benefits but Im willing to deal with that. One thing I would gain is adjustable ride height.

One thing I question though is if a front CO set up transfers more road noise/vibration or less or the same ??
 

Jason G76

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I’m sorry guys in advance, but I’m looking for a decent set of coilovers that work on solid axle if that makes a difference, if anyone on here knows someone with a set please let me know, the market is so flooded with different ones and then some that are not true coilovers and then some you have to modify the shock, I’m just not sure which way to go and I’m trying to save some cash on this purchase but no way am I gonna put junk on the car so I figured try finding a good quality used set, I appreciate any help
 

Jason G76

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D902D2A5-0687-425A-A5FC-0633CD41705C.jpeg
I’m sorry guys in advance, but I’m looking for a decent set of coilovers that work on solid axle if that makes a difference, if anyone on here knows someone with a set please let me know, the market is so flooded with different ones and then some that are not true coilovers and then some you have to modify the shock, I’m just not sure which way to go and I’m trying to save some cash on this purchase but no way am I gonna put junk on the car so I figured try finding a good quality used set, I appreciate any help
D902D2A5-0687-425A-A5FC-0633CD41705C.jpeg
 

FIREBALL

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OK being that the majority say CO will not improve ride, how about this----front svt springs are 500# GTs are 450# and V6s are 400# instead of going with CO wouldnt the GT or V6 springs give a softer ride and lower at the same time? How much lower would those springs go?--------I have the stock front sway bar so I could go with an upgrade (ebach) to make up for any loss of handling, and as I said I do have the adjustable Tokicos
 

coposrv

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Every single 79-04 I’ve been in with coil overs has felt awful. Doesn’t matter the intended set up either. Drag, handling, lowering cruising. They’ve all negatively impacted the ride.

If you think about it the coil over is holding the front end up at the strut tower only. It’s thin 14ga formed metal. I highly highly highly advise against coil overs for a car that sees street duty.


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01yellercobra

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Every single 79-04 I’ve been in with coil overs has felt awful. Doesn’t matter the intended set up either. Drag, handling, lowering cruising. They’ve all negatively impacted the ride.

If you think about it the coil over is holding the front end up at the strut tower only. It’s thin 14ga formed metal. I highly highly highly advise against coil overs for a car that sees street duty.


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Then something was wrong with the car. They should at least ride similar to a car sitting on lowering springs and good shocks/struts.

I've put at least 15k on my set up and it's been fine. I think the way MM plates sandwich the metal helps.
 

FIREBALL

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For now ive decided not to go with coil overs, Im going to try 6 cyl. springs first---if they work for me I can deal with any loss in handling with sway bar and shocks.
 

coposrv

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Then something was wrong with the car. They should at least ride similar to a car sitting on lowering springs and good shocks/struts.

I've put at least 15k on my set up and it's been fine. I think the way MM plates sandwich the metal helps.

I should also mention the roads in MA are terrible. Seriously awful. When I traveled for work I was blown away at how nice roads are basically everywhere else especially so California. That definitely plays a big part.


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FIREBALL

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Installed the 6 cylinder springs today with 1/2 coil cut and stock rubber isolators. It sits at the same ride height (2 finger gap) as stock springs with 1 1/4 cut. Set the Tokicos on soft setting to start with---very noticeable smoother ride in front. Only took it through a few tight corners, there was definitely more lean but the turn in was a little faster. I will probably end up tightening up the Tokicos a little. Will have to do more road test but so far its what I was wanting. I may have to go with the bigger Ebach sway bar. Will do alot more driving and then maybe do a write up on this mod.

New 6 cyl. springs--Moog 8732 $75 on amazon
 
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Badaz01

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I just got done overhauling my whole suspension system with stifflers full length welded subframe connectors, eibach lowering springs and bilstien b8’s in the rear complimented by full tilt boogie complete irs kit, and a chromoly upr k member and control arms with the included coil overs wrapped around koni orange struts. I coupled all this with 410 gears and what a different car it is. The ride is slightly stiffer and a little nvh but when I step on it the car squats and grabs instead of sea sawing and wheel hopping.
 

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