Car at exhaust shop: suddenly no longer starting
- Thread starter hatchke
- Start date
Look for rubber chunks on the rear quarters.
Not sure if you checked mileage but usually those things pop from hardcore flogging
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Not sure if you checked mileage but usually those things pop from hardcore flogging
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
It's always "I was racing in Mexico and it just stopped. Won't restart or anything" I've never heard of one "just going bad" from sitting there. Did you drive it hard on the way there? I am assuming that the car was shut off before it went into the shop and subsequently re-started to pull it in?
Well - FRPS replaced, oil drained (was absolutely full of fuel) and still can't get it going. I'm using one of my spare keys that I haven't actually ever tried starting the car with, so I can't verify it's good. It has fuel pressure at the reg, pressure at the rail and it just cranks over and over. It feels similar to when I didn't have PATS turned off in my startup tune.
Other thing is the battery voltage was getting quite low and was in the low-11's and 10.8 when I left. It's also quite quite low on and showing a good bit below empty on the gauge.
I'm going to run back in the morning with 5g of fuel, a battery jumper and try my OG key that the shop still has. If none/all of these don't get it started I have no idea what to try next.
I've never heard of one dying like this either. The car is still on a startup tune until next week (lol) so I haven't been driving it hard at all. It drove there completely fine and then they called me a few hours later saying they couldn't get it going. I turned it off when I got parked and gave them the keys.
Other thing is the battery voltage was getting quite low and was in the low-11's and 10.8 when I left. It's also quite quite low on and showing a good bit below empty on the gauge.
I'm going to run back in the morning with 5g of fuel, a battery jumper and try my OG key that the shop still has. If none/all of these don't get it started I have no idea what to try next.
I've never heard of one dying like this either. The car is still on a startup tune until next week (lol) so I haven't been driving it hard at all. It drove there completely fine and then they called me a few hours later saying they couldn't get it going. I turned it off when I got parked and gave them the keys.
Holy shit you left an untuned car at a shop!? And there’s at least one suggestion they beat it.
Just do the regular stuff and check for spark. Maybe reload the tune but I doubt that’s it.
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Yeah that's what i'm going to have to do in the AM. I truly didn't think anything of leaving it down there for a simple job and I didn't even check the mileage before I left. Probably a big oversight, because I just have no idea how the FRPS would have absolutely tanked without being subjected to some boost.
I've tipped into any boost like 3-4 times total since getting it going, mostly to test my vacuum lines and keep them from blowing off. I really hope this thing isn't injured now. It's been along road to get something driving.
I surely hope you get the issue resolved today, Mike. It sucks that you have to deal with this when it was fine before the shop worked on it. If it's not resolved today, are you hauling it back home?
I'm feeling a bit concerned about you only have a start-up tune and then leaving that big power car off at a muffler shop. Man, the temptation for a worker to take it out for a quick pull can be mighty steep. I surely hope nobody took it out for a spirited drive. That would really suck. It's hard to trust most shops unless you really know them. Keep us posted, and I surely hope you get the issue figured out today and find that there is NO motor injuries.
I'm feeling a bit concerned about you only have a start-up tune and then leaving that big power car off at a muffler shop. Man, the temptation for a worker to take it out for a quick pull can be mighty steep. I surely hope nobody took it out for a spirited drive. That would really suck. It's hard to trust most shops unless you really know them. Keep us posted, and I surely hope you get the issue figured out today and find that there is NO motor injuries.
Check for 12 volts on injector wire for start. Use noid or test light to check signal.
This will also confirm crank sensor is working
Engine sensors are on a fuse.
It's only thing that comes to mind first me.
If by chance they welded on car .
Fouled plugs will also not fire after flooding sometimes
Not easy working solo, this is something I would do solo .
This will also confirm crank sensor is working
Engine sensors are on a fuse.
It's only thing that comes to mind first me.
If by chance they welded on car .
Fouled plugs will also not fire after flooding sometimes
Not easy working solo, this is something I would do solo .
My car on a BAP would pop the FRPS just from key on. I added a KB burst disc and it helped. Removed BAP and went to GT pumps, issue solved. I’ve seen many FRPS go bad in many ways. Usually always returnless fuel systems.
The car is flooded, hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for 20-30 seconds. This will shut off the injectors. If it starts great, if not, give it a few minutes for the starter to cool and try it again. It might take a few tries but should start. Been down that road before. The car will smoke and spit and sputter while cranking. Don’t worry.
The car is flooded, hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it for 20-30 seconds. This will shut off the injectors. If it starts great, if not, give it a few minutes for the starter to cool and try it again. It might take a few tries but should start. Been down that road before. The car will smoke and spit and sputter while cranking. Don’t worry.
Ugh.. sounds like no fun.
Hope you get it figured out man. TOW TRUCK?
Geez - muffler shops, tow trucks and tire stores.... 3 dangerous places for any car to be.
OT but I took a brand new Sprinter van to a national brand tire store for it's first 5000 mile tire rotation and they put it on the lift @ the rocker pinch welds....the result was quite ugly.
Never again. Good Luck!
One of the benefits of self tuning is I flash a valet tune if I'm ever having any work done. Pretty much only work I have done is alignment which requires a test drive. The Rpm is kept under 3k rpm and a ton of timing is pulled.
Just got back from dropping by the car with the jumper box, more fuel and tried the OG key. Doing what @03' White Snake said started working after the 3rd 20-30s hit on the starter. Made zero effort on the first two, and then right towards the end of the 3rd try it started to sputter and try to start.
Was able to get it started and idle by itself for about 30-45s before it stumbled and died again. After that point I had drained the jumper box and the battery was already weak so I couldn't get it going. It was really close to starting and idling normally on the last hit, but think I just need to let it rest and come back with a freshly charged jumper.
Feels like i'm finally getting somewhere and possibly in the clear. What a whole mess this has been.
Was able to get it started and idle by itself for about 30-45s before it stumbled and died again. After that point I had drained the jumper box and the battery was already weak so I couldn't get it going. It was really close to starting and idling normally on the last hit, but think I just need to let it rest and come back with a freshly charged jumper.
Feels like i'm finally getting somewhere and possibly in the clear. What a whole mess this has been.
Glad to hear. Bring jumper cables with you too next time. You can try to start it normal now without holding the pedal down. With all the cranking, it might have burned off the extra fuel by now.
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My tuner wrote one to my sct3. Stays under 4k iirc. Peace of mind is a beautiful thing. Sucks nobody can be trusted though.
Good to hear!
Any update? Hope you were able to go at it again yesterday, with success!
The guys at the shop were like "You boys' like Mexico!" Always check mileage when dropping of a car.
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