Carbon Fiber vs Aluminum driveshaft

shelbysnake11

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I'm sure that there is a lot of info on here somewhere for the difference, but I sent the driveshaft shop an email yesterday and got this as a reply. I thought some of you might find it useful.

"Either one would will be a significant upgrade over the stock 2-piece driveshaft and work well for your setup. They and are capable of 1000HP and about a 3 week build time.

The main difference between the carbon and aluminum driveshaft is that the carbon fiber tube is more torsional than aluminum, therefore it can twist more under load resulting
in a smoother transfer of power at launch or between shifts. Aluminum is already much more torsional than steel, (about 15° under load vs about 5° for steel) but carbon fiber can go upwards of 30° to 35°. Carbon fiber is also typically quieter and there is typically a 2-3lb difference in weight which will help acceleration as well. will be a significant upgrade over the stock 2-piece driveshaft."

I'm leaning towards the carbon fiber because of the noise canceling and i wouldn't have to run a driveshaft loop.

Just wanted to pass along the info I got
 

oldstv

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Something you might not ever think about but having been there it is important to me.
If the carbon shaft breaks you don't beat the bottom of your car to death.
 

shelbysnake11

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Something you might not ever think about but having been there it is important to me.
If the carbon shaft breaks you don't beat the bottom of your car to death.
what happened to cause the carbon shaft to fail?
 

GT Premi

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It's much cheaper to replace a carbon fiber driveshaft than to have your undercarriage rebuilt after a metal shaft shreds it. I've had both of DSS's aluminum and carbon fiber shafts. The aluminum one had a bad CV joint, so I upgraded to the CF shaft. I'm now having problems with the CF shaft vibrating like crazy above 120, and it gets progressively worse as the speed climbs from there. It's very annoying and disconcerting.
 

shelbysnake11

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It's much cheaper to replace a carbon fiber driveshaft than to have your undercarriage rebuilt after a metal shaft shreds it. I've had both of DSS's aluminum and carbon fiber shafts. The aluminum one had a bad CV joint, so I upgraded to the CF shaft. I'm now having problems with the CF shaft vibrating like crazy above 120, and it gets progressively worse as the speed climbs from there. It's very annoying and disconcerting.

Have you been in contact with DSS over the issue with the carbon fiber shaft? That is the brand i was looking at. I just want to make sure when i do pull the trigger its on the best driveshaft.

Thanks.
 

oldstv

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I didn't have a carbon shaft to break. I lost the rear end in a GTO and had an aluminum shaft. When i put it back together it had a carbon shaft back in it.
 

darkside323

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Thanks.[/QUOTE]
It's much cheaper to replace a carbon fiber driveshaft than to have your undercarriage rebuilt after a metal shaft shreds it. I've had both of DSS's aluminum and carbon fiber shafts. The aluminum one had a bad CV joint, so I upgraded to the CF shaft. I'm now having problems with the CF shaft vibrating like crazy above 120, and it gets progressively worse as the speed climbs from there. It's very annoying and disconcerting.

Which CF driveshaft are you using that is "vibrating like crazy"?
 

Fast Ford

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I would look at other options, I've read about too many CV issues and vibrations from DSS, and it's not a true bolt-in using a spacer. If you're looking at carbon fiber, PST makes a nice true bolt in shaft, no spacers needed. Myself I have a PST 3.5 aluminum shaft with a BMR loop behind the trans.
 
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RedVenom48

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If you're worried about a broken *aluminum* driveshaft and not running a drive shaft safety loop, which cost at most 90 bucks new, then you're in the wrong game...

*edited for clarification*
 
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GT Premi

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Have you been in contact with DSS over the issue with the carbon fiber shaft? That is the brand i was looking at. I just want to make sure when i do pull the trigger its on the best driveshaft.

Thanks.

I wasn't having any issues with it until recently. Actually, it wasn't until I got the Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires mounted. I've had them rebalanced 3 times, but the problem keeps coming back. So it could really either be a bad tire(s), bad balance job (but 3 times, though??), or my pinion angle is still not dialed in.

I'm saying the driveshaft because the vibration is exactly the same as when the CV joint gave out on the aluminum shaft.
 

shelbysnake11

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If you're worried about a broken driveshaft and not running a drive shaft safety loop, which cost at most 90 bucks new, then you're in the wrong game...

I am mostly worried about braking the stock shaft right now. A safety loop probably wouldn't be a bad idea but would it really be any benefit with a carbon shaft? I'm still learning a lot about these cars and drag racing in general.
 

shelbysnake11

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If you're worried about a broken driveshaft and not running a drive shaft safety loop, which cost at most 90 bucks new, then you're in the wrong game...

I am mostly worried about braking the stock shaft right now. A safety loop probably wouldn't be a bad idea but would it really be any benefit with a carbon shaft? I'm still learning a lot about these cars and drag racing in general.
 

RedVenom48

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To be fair i was talking about a 1 pc aluminum driveshaft and using a brace. Will correct for clarification.

I actually just took off the BMR loop i purchased last year. BMR part # DSL011. Its designed for the stock 2 piece factory shaft, a fact i didnt see before i bought it.

Their DSL010 is cheaper and supports the shaft at the trans end where most failures will occur with steel or alum shafts.

When a CF shaft fails it will shatter and do no damage to the car. For the price? Id rather get aluminum, buy a loop, save 300 and call it a day.
 

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