Changing trans and rear axle fluid if you have TP

Cman01

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For us track pack guys changing those fluids isn't just draining and refilling the housing to do the job properly you have to disconnect the lines and empty out the coolers also.

I don't remember the part # but Ford specifies a tool to be able to disconnect both the trans. and rear axle lines so you can drain out the coolers and lines.

There is probably something akft. that is avail. to use to do this anybody know what is avail. out there?

I found this on summit's site:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6593

Will that work?
 
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Snoopy49

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Here is the disconnect tool for the differential cooler lines, 307-569. The same tool is used on the transmission lines. This is just the first supplier that came up on my web search, look around you may be able to find it cheaper.

Here is the factory recommended method for transmission fluid cooler backflushing and cleaning. Since there is not a thermostat in the system you should be able to just disconnect the lines at the trans and push fresh oil through the cooler until you get clean oil coming out of the other line.

Transmission Fluid Cooler Backflushing and Cleaning.jpg
 

Cman01

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I would just disconnect the lines and gently blow compressed air in one line and force the old fluid out the other line into a drain pan. For the rear axle I could let the pump do it by disconnecting one line or do the same thing with compressed air like for the trans.
 
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Snoopy49

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The nice thing about a fluid flush is the cleaning action of the new clean fluid, air will only push out the bulk of the oil, but there will always be residual dirty oil in the lines and cooler. By using new oil to flush the system, the new oil acts as a solvent and carries away most of the old dirty oil.
 

Cman01

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There won't be that much old fluid in there whether you flush it or blow it out. The trans and rear axle fluid lubricates by splash lubrication. Those oils will break down but not as quick as the engine oil in the engine ALA you get most of it out of the system it's good enough.

When you do an engine oil change you remove the drain plug and the oil just drains out, you could let it drip for days but you'll never get ALL the old oil out there will always be a little bit of it in the engine. The TP cars are even worse, 1/2 quart of oil is always in the cooler and there is no way to drain that short of disconnecting the line and draining it out. That is total BS to me when I do a fluid change I want ALL the old fluid to be removed and replaced with new fresh fluid.

I still would like to find an easy way to drain the TP engine oil cooler.
 

Snoopy49

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Can you gain access to the engine oil cooler lines by removing the splash pan behind the front splitter?

It doesn't look like you need any special tools to disconnect the oil cooler lines.

Oil Cooler Lines.jpg
 

13 Cobra Toy

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I would just disconnect the lines and gently blow compressed air in one line and force the old fluid out the other line into a drain pan. For the rear axle I could let the pump do it by disconnecting one line or do the same thing with compressed air line for the trans.

Be careful using air pressure. There are check valves in the pump or lines to prevent the oil returning to the diff when the pump is not running. I would drain the diff and refill. Remove the return line and run the pump until clean fluid comes out. Similar to what Snoopy49 stated
 

13 Cobra Toy

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Anyone know how the differential oil cooler lines come off of the diff cover. Is it a push and pull type release or do you remove a clip?

Thanks
 

13 Cobra Toy

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Thanks Snoopy49 ! Do you have the factory procedure for changing the fluid in the diff? I wonder if the seal is on the line or in the coupler.
 
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Snoopy49

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Thanks Snoopy49 ! Do you have the factory procedure for changing the fluid in the diff? I wonder if the seal is on the line or in the coupler.

NOTE: Service refill capacities are determined by filling the axle to a level of 5mm below the bottom of the fill hole with the axle at ride height.
Remove the axle plug and fill the axle with 1.89-2.01L (4-4.25 pt) of axle lubricant and a additional 4.0 oz of friction modifier additive, vehicles with a differential cooler then use a scan tool to operate the oil cooler pump and add a additional 1.10L (2 pt) of axle lubricant and a additional 2 oz of friction modifier and install the filler plug.
Tighten the plug to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft).

There is a work around for the need of a scan tool for pump activation. It requires jumping terminals 3 & 5 in the Battery Junction Box.

2013-14 Differential Cooling Pump Wiring 2.jpg

2013-14 Battery Junction Box 2jpg.jpg
 
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VFORCEJOHN

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I remove the lines. Spray Brakleen in there and blow it out with compressed air until it's dry and all out.

I'm sure you aren't a dirty 100,000 mile automatic trans, so there should be very little dirt coagulated in the lines. Compressed air will more than likely do it all.
 

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NOTE: Service refill capacities are determined by filling the axle to a level of 5mm below the bottom of the fill hole with the axle at ride height.
Remove the axle plug and fill the axle with 1.89-2.01L (4-4.25 pt) of axle lubricant and a additional 4.0 oz of friction modifier additive, vehicles with a differential cooler then use a scan tool to operate the oil cooler pump and add a additional 1.10L (2 pt) of axle lubricant and a additional 2 oz of friction modifier and install the filler plug.
Tighten the plug to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft).

There is a work around for the need of a scan tool for pump activation. It requires jumping terminals 3 & 5 in the Battery Junction Box.

I remove the lines. Spray Brakleen in there and blow it out with compressed air until it's dry and all out.

I'm sure you aren't a dirty 100,000 mile automatic trans, so there should be very little dirt coagulated in the lines. Compressed air will more than likely do it all.


Thanks guys. I picked up some diff oil and ordered two new couplers. They were $19 each part number DR3Z 6K741 A

:beer:
 

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