Charge pipe question, 2.5 to 3in

SVTsteele

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I have a hellion turbo kit and the ic is 2.5 out and charge pipe is 2.5 to tb. I want to make a 3 in pipe in the bay at the least mainly for looks as the 2.5 looks puny. If i do this is it better to leave the maf in the 2.5 in pipe inside the fender where it is currently or continue the 3in as far down as possible and put the maf wherever the ideal location would be, or does it not really matter?
 

badcobra

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If you change the diameter the of the pipe where the MAF is, you will need to re-tune the car as the transfer curve will be different. At that point, I'd switch to a slot meter and just it put wherever you want then.
 

SVTsteele

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Im finishing up the install of new motor, already have slot style and getting tuned when done so none of thats a variable really.
 

SecondhandSnake

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If you're getting it retuned anyway, it may be advantageous to go with the 3" depending on what power you're making. Going to a larger diameter allows you to effectively measure a higher mass flow rate before the MAF pegs.
 

01yellercobra

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I ran a BA5000 in a 3.5" pipe in a blow through set up. With a big bore stroker and an F1A at 19psi I think I was mid 700's on MAF counts. Lots of room to grow and part throttle was still pretty good.
 

SVT GI

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You’d want the MAF in the larger tube so you can extend the range as said above. You can put the transition coupler right off the intercooler, in the fender or anywhere in between. The old HP twin kits had the larger tube just in the 8-12” section where the MAF was and ran fine but aesthetically looked like crap.

my intercooler has a 3” outlet, run the 3” to the inner fender then I transition to 3.5” to TB. 24 psi and MAF counts are mid 700s.
 

SVTsteele

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I intend to pur the maf in the straight after the bend from fender and before the bend to throttle body, does its orientation in the pipe matter at all up down or side? I wanted to pur on bottom side so not visible
 

SecondhandSnake

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Most sensor manufacturers are going to require it to be +/-80 deg from vertical. That's to say that it should have the sensor tip pointing down to some extent. Failure to do this can result in water intrusion and premature failure of the sensor.
 

SecondhandSnake

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I don't think water is a consideration on a blow-thru turbo setup. My opinion is put it to any orientation you want.

I'm just reiterating sensor manufacturer specifications we use at OEMs.

Also you can get a lot of condensation in a charge air cooled vehicles, some worse than others. Ford and Volvo have had enough issue with turbo vehicles they've issued TSBs about it, and that's just to mitigate the more severe effects of it (misfire, throttle freezing, sensor damage and downstream effects.)
 

badcobra

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I'm just reiterating sensor manufacturer specifications we use at OEMs.

Also you can get a lot of condensation in a charge air cooled vehicles, some worse than others. Ford and Volvo have had enough issue with turbo vehicles they've issued TSBs about it, and that's just to mitigate the more severe effects of it (misfire, throttle freezing, sensor damage and downstream effects.)
I hear what you're saying. I'm thinking this isn't a daily driven vehicle that sees rain and other adverse weather, but I could be wrong. Most turbo cars also lose the EGR systems that put condensation into the intake tract. For as far as these cars go away from stock, I do not feel that they have the same consideration of issues that an OEM does.
 

SecondhandSnake

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I hear what you're saying. I'm thinking this isn't a daily driven vehicle that sees rain and other adverse weather, but I could be wrong. Most turbo cars also lose the EGR systems that put condensation into the intake tract. For as far as these cars go away from stock, I do not feel that they have the same consideration of issues that an OEM does.

Most intake designs with even a modicum of a filter do a good job of separating out even high amounts of rain and road spray. You might only get in trouble with ingestion with a large exposed intake. EGR is not a concern either, with most non-cooled EGR setups as the exhaust stays hot enough that it doesn't condense.

The problem with water and condensation is actually from the charge air cooler (CAC or intercooler). It's very easy for the moisture that is in the air to cross over the condensation line and become water at the temperatures/pressures within and downstream of the CAC. This can lead to many different problems. It's typically the biggest problem at light/part loads in cooler temperatures, but humidity, temperature, engine operation, and CAC effectiveness can vary when and where it occurs. Believe me, I lead an OEM project around this. I can go on at great length if interested though.
 

badcobra

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A Ford slot MAF that has a covered bottom doesn't know if it's upside down or sideways. There is no way for water or condensation to pool on it. It can be put anywhere in the tube and it will be fine.
 

SecondhandSnake

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A Ford slot MAF that has a covered bottom doesn't know if it's upside down or sideways. There is no way for water or condensation to pool on it. It can be put anywhere in the tube and it will be fine.

You also wouldn't think that transmission fluid could wick into a TCM from the harness and sensor, or gaseous fuel migrate through sensors into the harness, but it can. I'm just passing along the specs we get from the sensor manufacturers the likes of Continental, Bosch, Hitachi, etc... That's how they tell the OEM to mount it. Sure a single weekend toy is different than a thousands upon thousands of vehicles under warranty, but I like to adhere to and exceed best practices if at all possible.
 

SVTsteele

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Im using a VMP HPX maf, dont plan on going higher then 24ish psi, in the 8-900hp range if that helps with some more info.

Pic is a mock up unwelded, will get more pics when welded up
 

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Blackedout

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Are you sure the intercooler is sized right... 2 1/2 seems small for that HP level... I would mount the maf on the side between the intake tube and valve cover for easy access...
 

SVTsteele

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Are you sure the intercooler is sized right... 2 1/2 seems small for that HP level... I would mount the maf on the side between the intake tube and valve cover for easy access...

Im honestly not sure of the hp rating of the intercooler, its the one that came with the hellion kit, i was in mid 700s with the stock engine and dont see the power jumping up too significantly with the compression bump in the new one, we will see what it makes and may change out down the road. Anywhere in the middle area there has easy access really.
 

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