Clutch engagement issues

[Doubt 1T]

Hard to say. Cold temperature should not affect the engagement of the pressure plate or clutch discs during normal driving. I guess it is possible that it could affect the smoothness of the slave cylinder sliding on the input shaft, if there is a buildup of grease and clutch dust on the input shaft it might tend to get sticky.

Is there anything I can spray in there to try and clean the shaft? If i can get to it through the inspection hole. This is a weird one for sure, I'd think with these components if it fails it fails not kind of work then be ok, being my Clutch seems not to slip at all and the car shifts fine at any gear at any speed but i can wrong. I ant really drive the car anymore being we got snow now lol maybe today ill just start the car an engage and disengage the clutch and see if I feel or hear anything.

 

[hotcobra03]

There are a few parts in the clutch system that can fail, causing the noise you are hearing: pressure plate, sprung hub, and concentric slave cylinder. For a thorough diagnosis, the transmission needs to be removed and the clutch assembly needs to be disassembled and inspected. With nearly 30k miles on your stock clutch, I would plan on replacing everything while the transmission is removed, regardless of clutch condition; it is not a job you want to pay for or do twice if it can be avoided. On a modded car, look at aftermarket clutch replacement options.

A good way to test for slippage is to do a WOT pull in 4th gear starting from 3000 RPM on a good road with traction. If the clutch discs are worn or the pressure plate is weak, the clutch won’t hold peak torque (RPMs will flare without corresponding increase in speed).

View attachment 1733403
View attachment 1733404
View attachment 1733407

On this pic,,that tiny bolt holding cylinder to Trans.

This broken will make noise,but allow clutch to work fine .

Just a noise when moving pedal,,

The line going through Trans,,does this move in and out? Should be firm ,

The factory service manual is also a great read on how things work ,,


Driving habits on clutch,,
On the 03 they all say clutch needs upgrade.
@365k I did mine. Side by side to new clutch it still had many years left

 

[Doubt 1T]

On this pic,,that tiny bolt holding cylinder to Trans.

This broken will make noise,but allow clutch to work fine .

Just a noise when moving pedal,,

The line going through Trans,,does this move in and out? Should be firm ,

The factory service manual is also a great read on how things work ,,


Driving habits on clutch,,
On the 03 they all say clutch needs upgrade.
@365k I did mine. Side by side to new clutch it still had many years left

To check if that bolt is lose is to engage the clutch and disengage. Car can be off or on. Funny part is when the car is off the clutch feels fine. It’s when it’s on is when I feel it in the pedal.

Yeah I’d just hate to rip it all apart and throw money at it when it’s not needed. So I’m trying to make a educated guess here with your guys help lol. I can use that money for other parts

 

[SCGallo2]

Is there anything I can spray in there to try and clean the shaft? If i can get to it through the inspection hole.

I don't think it is possible to access that area through the inspection hole, and I would not risk contaminating the pressure plate or clutch discs, which could lead to slippage.

A very light coat of this lube is what should be on the splines of the input shaft and clutch disc hubs to promote smooth movement and prevent binding:

 

[Beercules]

the clutch is good if it holds max torque in a higher gear. Since you can feel it in the pedal it's something in or attached to that pressure line. I'm wondering if the throw out bearing is sticking or the clutch has worn enough for the throw out bearing to not be in touch with the fingers when fully released?
If one of the bolts are missing/broke you might be able to move it by wiggling the metal line that barely pokes out of the bellhousing hole on the drivers' side rear.

 

[Doubt 1T]

I don't think it is possible to access that area through the inspection hole, and I would not risk contaminating the pressure plate or clutch discs, which could lead to slippage.

A very light coat of this lube is what should be on the splines of the input shaft and clutch disc hubs to promote smooth movement and prevent binding:

View attachment 1734006

Yeah if I do indeed do the clutch. Ill get some of that.

the clutch is good if it holds max torque in a higher gear. Since you can feel it in the pedal it's something in or attached to that pressure line. I'm wondering if the throw out bearing is sticking or the clutch has worn enough for the throw out bearing to not be in touch with the fingers when fully released?
If one of the bolts are missing/broke you might be able to move it by wiggling the metal line that barely pokes out of the bellhousing hole on the drivers' side rear.

Yeah there zero slippage in high gear. If im driving i dont feel anything in my foot at all, might be to much going on to feel it vs at a stand still.

I guess if i did do the clutch, I guess just go back with OEM? one day i plan to tune it and maybe pulley done but thats it really.

 

[Beercules]

If you do a clutch go with McLeod. And make sure there's no hairline fractures in the clutch.

 

[Doubt 1T]

If you do a clutch go with McLeod. And make sure there's no hairline fractures in the clutch.

How does that McLeod feel? I like how the OEM feels. Getting the McLeod is a upgrade?