Clutch pedal sticking at high RPM shifts

2011 gtcs

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Alright so I'm at a loss, ever since I put my new engine in with my Spec SS clutch I've been having a intermittent issue of the clutch pedal sticking to the floor for maybe a second or so during WOT pulls. First I figured to pull the clutch assist spring out, But that didn't fix anything. So I pumped the hell out of the clutch (probably 200 times) since that's basically the only way I know to bleed air out of the clutch line, I do have a steel braided clutch line and I added Motul600 fluid as well thinking maybe the fluid was getting to hot, also I removed my remote clutch reservoir thinking maybe something was up with that, but nope, no change.

Any of you guys ever replaced the clutch master cylinder? I haven't heard of them going bad, but I suppose there's a first for everything. Either that or I'm thinking the clutch is the issue.
 

SCGallo2

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I preemptively replaced my clutch master cylinder on my 2008 when I rebuilt and reinstalled my Spec SS, just so that everything in my clutch system was new. With a completely purged clutch hydraulic system, it took 400 pumps of the clutch pedal to start to build pressure, then I pumped it another 100 times for good measure. Following that, I performed the clutch bleeding procedure in the Ford Workshop Manual:

- Apply 15-20 inches of vacuum to the clutch fluid reservoir, hold for 1 minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum.
- Check fluid level and add if needed.
- Pump clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.

Procedure calls for repeating above steps (2) more times, but I repeated it (5) more times for good measure, and my new clutch has been trouble-free.

Did you clean the transmission input shaft, apply a light coat of PTFE lube to the splines, and install a new slave cylinder while the transmission was removed from the car?
 

2011 gtcs

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I preemptively replaced my clutch master cylinder on my 2008 when I rebuilt and reinstalled my Spec SS, just so that everything in my clutch system was new. With a completely purged clutch hydraulic system, it took 400 pumps of the clutch pedal to start to build pressure, then I pumped it another 100 times for good measure. Following that, I performed the clutch bleeding procedure in the Ford Workshop Manual:

- Apply 15-20 inches of vacuum to the clutch fluid reservoir, hold for 1 minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum.
- Check fluid level and add if needed.
- Pump clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.

Procedure calls for repeating above steps (2) more times, but I repeated it (5) more times for good measure, and my new clutch has been trouble-free.

Did you clean the transmission input shaft, apply a light coat of PTFE lube to the splines, and install a new slave cylinder while the transmission was removed from the car?
I haven't tried the Ford method yet, but now that my clutch is back to sharing the brake master cylinder that's a good idea, I'll just need to get the tool to apply vacuum to the master cylinder reservoir. But it's worth a shot at this point.

I did install a new slave cylinder and pilot bearing with the new clutch. I also installed the supplied shim that Spec included with the kit. I cleaned out the inside of the bell-housing but I didn't add lub to the input shaft, maybe that was something I should have done.

I'm going to try and hunt down the Ford tool to add vaccum to the master cylinder reservoir and give that a try. The messed up part is everything works the way it should except for during high RPM WOT shifts. I've done several clutchs on my other GT500s and never had this issue. So I'm kinda pissed, but I suppose that's the name of the game.
 

SCGallo2

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I use a Craftsman vacuum pump kit along with a cap from my Motive Brake bleeder kit for a good seal on the reservoir. My original Spec SS with cera-metallic plates and now my re-built unit with organic plates did not come with a shim for a 07-09 slave cylinder, and the clutch release is perfect... starts to engage about 1" - 1-1/4" off the floor. I believe a stock 13-14 slave cylinder has a shorter travel, so a shim would be understandable if our clutch assembly is built to the same specification. I hope you can avoid removing the transmission again. Good luck!

Vacuum pump.jpg
 

2011 gtcs

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I use a Craftsman vacuum pump kit along with a cap from my Motive Brake bleeder kit for a good seal on the reservoir. My original Spec SS with cera-metallic plates and now my re-built unit with organic plates did not come with a shim for a 07-09 slave cylinder, and the clutch release is perfect... starts to engage about 1" - 1-1/4" off the floor. I believe a stock 13-14 slave cylinder has a shorter travel, so a shim would be understandable if our clutch assembly is built to the same specification. I hope you can avoid removing the transmission again. Good luck!

View attachment 1747919
Yeah the 10 to 14 slave Cylinders are shorter, not sure why ford changed it. But I'm sure there was a reason. I'm going to order that stuff today. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again. And I have to pull the transmission I'm honestly probably going to switch to a centerforce DYAD.
 

Vinnie_B

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I have the remote Shelby clutch reservoir on my SS......zero issues and it did make better for my brakes and clutch engagement. I would replace the clutch master cylinder and do the ford clutch bleed procedure as @SCGallo2 mentioned. I recommend this kit from Ford Rotunda. They have high end dealership tech repair tools and its also where i buy all my tools to work on the shelby SS. They have good quality Dealership technician tools!

Part Number: 416-D002
Name: Vacuum Pump Kit


Clutch Master Cylinder

Removal and Installation

  1. Remove the brake pedal and bracket assembly.
  2. Remove the retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin.
  3. Remove the 2 clutch master cylinder bolts, then disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal.
    • To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
  4. Remove the reservoir hose from the clutch master cylinder.
NOTE: Install new hose clamps on the reservoir hose.

  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  2. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. (Refer to Clutch system Bleeding below)
  3. Check the clutch for normal operation.

Clutch System Bleeding

  1. Make sure all hydraulic tubes are correctly seated.
  2. Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
  3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
  4. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a Vacuum Pump Kit, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
    • Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
  5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools.
  6. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
  7. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
  8. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
  9. Install the reservoir cap.
  10. Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.

Hope this helps and its the fix you need buddy. Good Luck!
 
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2011 gtcs

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I have the remote Shelby clutch reservoir on my SS......zero issues and it did make better for my brakes and clutch engagement. I would replace the clutch master cylinder and do the ford clutch bleed procedure as @SCGallo2 mentioned. I recommend this kit from Ford Rotunda. They have high end dealership tech repair tools and its also where i buy all my tools to work on the shelby SS. They have good quality Dealership technician tools!

Part Number: 416-D002
Name: Vacuum Pump Kit


Clutch Master Cylinder

Removal and Installation

  1. Remove the brake pedal and bracket assembly.
  2. Remove the retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin.
  3. Remove the 2 clutch master cylinder bolts, then disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal.
    • To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
  4. Remove the reservoir hose from the clutch master cylinder.
NOTE: Install new hose clamps on the reservoir hose.

  1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  2. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. (Refer to Clutch system Bleeding below)
  3. Check the clutch for normal operation.

Clutch System Bleeding

  1. Make sure all hydraulic tubes are correctly seated.
  2. Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
  3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
  4. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a Vacuum Pump Kit, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
    • Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
  5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the vacuum. Remove the special tools.
  6. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
  7. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
  8. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
  9. Install the reservoir cap.
  10. Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.

Hope this helps and its the fix you need buddy. Good Luck!
I just ordered the motive brake bleeder 0118, I'm going to pressurize the master cylinder and follow the ford procedure on bleeding it and see if that will improve it. And If that doesn't fix it, next I'll replace the clutch master cylinder. I'm really hoping I don't have to replace that.

If I have to pull the transmission and put a different clutch in im going to be pissed. Having ARH headers its a nightmare to pull the transmission.
 

Norton

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You should consider installing a bleeder. McLeod offers #139252 (Bleeder Elbow #139250 AND a 36" Clutch Line) for $1 LESS than #139250 (Bleeder Elbow by itself), thru Summit Racing.

Truth in advertising... I have #139252 on a shelf awaiting install, so I can't yet tell you how difficult install is or how effective the bleeder is. I also have a Centerforce DYAD on the same shelf, in expectation of my stock clutch's inevitable failure.

Good luck and please keep us posted.
 

2011 gtcs

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You should consider installing a bleeder. McLeod offers #139252 (Bleeder Elbow #139250 AND a 36" Clutch Line) for $1 LESS than #139250 (Bleeder Elbow by itself), thru Summit Racing.

Truth in advertising... I have #139252 on a shelf awaiting install, so I can't yet tell you how difficult install is or how effective the bleeder is. I also have a Centerforce DYAD on the same shelf, in expectation of my stock clutch's inevitable failure.

Good luck and please keep us posted.
I wish I would have done a few things differently when I put the engine back in, but I was so fixated on certain things that I spaced it on other important things. The car already had a stainless steel clutch line, but I should have do the McLeod clutch line, and JDM engineering recommended the Spec clutch so I went with that. I should have went with the DYAD instead like I originally wanted to.
 

Vinnie_B

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You should consider installing a bleeder. McLeod offers #139252 (Bleeder Elbow #139250 AND a 36" Clutch Line) for $1 LESS than #139250 (Bleeder Elbow by itself), thru Summit Racing.

Truth in advertising... I have #139252 on a shelf awaiting install, so I can't yet tell you how difficult install is or how effective the bleeder is. I also have a Centerforce DYAD on the same shelf, in expectation of my stock clutch's inevitable failure.

Good luck and please keep us posted.
I wish I would have done a few things differently when I put the engine back in, but I was so fixated on certain things that I spaced it on other important things. The car already had a stainless steel clutch line, but I should have do the McLeod clutch line, and JDM engineering recommended the Spec clutch so I went with that. I should have went with the DYAD instead like I originally wanted to.
Im with the both of you on the centerforce DYAD. It came highly recommmended to me from a shelby tech and Kenne Bell as a replacement for a stock clutch. Thats what im replacing my stock clutch with when it goes. Good luck @2011 gtcs. Man I really hope the above options fix your issue. Ill keep my fingers crossed!
 

1Kona_Venom

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Im with the both of you on the centerforce DYAD. It came highly recommmended to me from a shelby tech and Kenne Bell as a replacement for a stock clutch. Thats what im replacing my stock clutch with when it goes. Good luck @2011 gtcs. Man I really hope the above options fix your issue. Ill keep my fingers crossed!
Stock clutch on your SS?? Surely not a factory stock clutch?

Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Vinnie_B

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Stock clutch on your SS?? Surely not a factory stock clutch?

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Yup still sporting the stock clutch. The holeshot package includes the upgraded clutch package. I was told by shelby it was not necessary unless I bumped to 1000 hp at the crank/flywheel holeshot package and that the stock clutch was good to 900 hp.
 

2011 gtcs

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Yup still sporting the stock clutch. The holeshot package includes the upgraded clutch package. I was told by shelby it was not necessary unless I bumped to 1000 hp at the crank/flywheel holeshot package and that the stock clutch was good to 900 hp.
I believe Shelby uses the ACE clutch in the holeshot package, I wounder if that would be a good option outside of the DYAD.
 

Vinnie_B

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I believe Shelby uses the ACE clutch in the holeshot package, I wounder if that would be a good option outside of the DYAD.
I was told by a shelby rep that it is absolutely a great clutch. It's a racing clutch and for racing. I've heard nothing but good things about it and no complaints. BUT it's not as forgiving for the more inexperienced Manuel transmission guys like me. He said that the centerforce DYAD was a better street clutch and was somewhat more forgiving as the stock clutch would be. You cant go wrong with that clutch if you plan to actually race your car or are a good manual transmission shifting guy. I'm going to wait and see what happens with the RPM Act. If it passes I'm doing the hole shot pkg w/ Motec 150 upgrade so I would do the ace clutch by shelby since it's part of the package. But if I dont....centerforce for me.
 
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2011 gtcs

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I was told by a shelby rep that it is absolutely a great clutch. It's a racing clutch and for racing. I've heard nothing but good things about it and no complaints. BUT it's not as forgiving for the more inexperienced Manuel transmission guys like me. He said that the centerforce DYAD was a better street clutch and was somewhat more forgiving as the stock clutch would be. You cant go wrong with that clutch if you plan to actually race your car or are a good manual transmission shifting guy. I'm going to wait and see what happens with the RPM Act. If it passes I'm doing the hole shot pkg w/ Motec 150 upgrade so I would do the ace clutch by shelby since it's part of the package. But if I dont....centerforce for me.
The holeshot package is the absolute best way to go IMO if you have a super snake. I just wasn't sure if Shelby American was still doing holeshot packages since they stopped doing 07-14 super snake packages.
 

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The holeshot package is the absolute best way to go IMO if you have a super snake. I just wasn't sure if Shelby American was still doing holeshot packages since they stopped doing 07-14 super snake packages.
I'm no expert on what SA's offerings but, as I understand it, they no longer offer 07-14 SS conversions due to parts availability issues. That said, I hope they'd find a way to help current SS owners with upgrades, like the holeshot package.
 

Vinnie_B

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The holeshot package is the absolute best way to go IMO if you have a super snake. I just wasn't sure if Shelby American was still doing holeshot packages since they stopped doing 07-14 super snake packages.
I'm no expert on what SA's offerings but, as I understand it, they no longer offer 07-14 SS conversions due to parts availability issues. That said, I hope they'd find a way to help current SS owners with upgrades, like the holeshot package.
The 2013-14 Super Snake program is officially closed and no more super snakes will be built or CSM #'s released!!! The official numbers have not been released but it was leaked that less than 200 (2013) were built and 700 (2014) were built. This is the deal! Yes..... they are still offering service to all old and current supersnake csm owners. Currently they are still offering the holeshot or anti hop upgrades for the 2013-14 SS. The holeshot will only be considered if you currently possess a extra PCM, which i do now. Depending what happens with the RPM act, if it passes I'd like to do the holeshot with shelby and let them farm out the Motec 150 upgrade thru fathouse performance. Its possible because it was discussed. Im thinking about trying and twisting there arm again into doing the 1000 HP Super snake package (1100 rwhp) if parts are available. Last time I ask......the answer was NO! We will see as im might be will to wait patiently if I have too. Its a very expensive upgrade to the tune of 76K. There is alot of unknowns right now in this country and with this EV movement. I just want to make the wisest decision. Right now the car is 50 state legal. Do I really want to give that up??? Im considering moving to oregon when i retire. If so it wouldnt be the wisest thing to do??? What I want and whats the smartest thing to do is something I really need to think thru. But Damn.....I really want to do this upgrade!!
 
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Vinnie_B

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The holeshot package is the absolute best way to go IMO if you have a super snake. I just wasn't sure if Shelby American was still doing holeshot packages since they stopped doing 07-14 super snake packages.
I forgot to mention to you, if you were to consider the shelby clutch at your power rating I would seriously consider the triple disk. You are at shelby 1000 power level and thats whats in it.
 

2011 gtcs

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The 2013-14 Super Snake program is officially closed and no more super snakes will be built or CSM #'s released!!! The official numbers have not been released but it was leaked that less than 200 (2013) were built and 700 (2014) were built. This is the deal! Yes..... they are still offering service to all old and current supersnake csm owners. Currently they are still offering the holeshot or anti hop upgrades for the 2013-14 SS. The holeshot will only be considered if you currently possess a extra PCM, which i do now. Depending what happens with the RPM act, if it passes I'd like to do the holeshot with shelby and let them farm out the Motec 150 upgrade thru fathouse performance. Its possible because it was discussed. Im thinking about trying and twisting there arm again into doing the 1000 HP Super snake package (1100 rwhp) if parts are available. Last time I ask......the answer was NO! We will see as im might be will to wait patiently if I have too. Its a very expensive upgrade to the tune of 76K. There is alot of unknowns right now in this country and with this EV movement. I just want to make the wisest decision. Right now the car is 50 state legal. Do I really want to give that up??? Im considering moving to oregon when i retire. If so it wouldnt be the wisest thing to do??? What I want and whats the smartest thing to do is something I really need to think thru. But Damn.....I really want to do this upgrade!!
That's good they still offer the Holeshot package for current super snake owners, I know if I had super snake I'd get that package, I also wouldn't hold your breath on the RPM act. Congress could give two shits less about our hobby. Not sure if you have an IG, but I follow this guy (S1000hwak) he has a 2012 Shelby1000 that fathouse performance did the Motec 150 upgrade with flex fuel and he's laying down over 1000whp now on E85.

I forgot to mention to you, if you were to consider the shelby clutch at your power rating I would seriously consider the triple disk. You are at shelby 1000 power level and thats whats in it.
I'm going to be keeping mine around 900 to 950whp, I just want to lay down 1000whp on the dyno for fun. My Spec SS clutch is rated for 1000whp so it should work fine and the triple disk clutches are kinda a pain in the ass to shim. I just hope I can figure out what's going on with my clutch. I wish I had super snake with the holeshot package. I'd rather just let them do everything to my car, I'm over working on it myself.
 

Vinnie_B

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That's good they still offer the Holeshot package for current super snake owners, I know if I had super snake I'd get that package, I also wouldn't hold your breath on the RPM act. Congress could give two shits less about our hobby. Not sure if you have an IG, but I follow this guy (S1000hwak) he has a 2012 Shelby1000 that fathouse performance did the Motec 150 upgrade with flex fuel and he's laying down over 1000whp now on E85.


I'm going to be keeping mine around 900 to 950whp, I just want to lay down 1000whp on the dyno for fun. My Spec SS clutch is rated for 1000whp so it should work fine and the triple disk clutches are kinda a pain in the ass to shim. I just hope I can figure out what's going on with my clutch. I wish I had super snake with the holeshot package. I'd rather just let them do everything to my car, I'm over working on it myself.
Its not the RPM act passing thats concerning. If it does fail, the aftermarket performance side will suffer greatly and so will the technical side (Tuning and support for after market stand alone ECU'S) of it too. Than as these morons push this EV shit down our throats the worse the EPA and emissions regulations are going to get for gas powered vehicles in the very near future. I personally do not really want to mess with being in violation of the clean air act as these loonies are already threatening federal violation citiations which I believe are just going to get even worse. Its a tough decision. The SS is 50 state legal as it sits. Man.....decisions decisions????



I get what your saying especially when things break or are going wrong but listen man you have a very unique, beautiful Shelby Gt500 that you put your own personal touches into building......IMO it should be priceless to you. Everything we do in life comes with a price!! You have in your possesion a shelby that is not only equal to an SS but in many ways better!!! Its the truth. Everything will work out. The hard work will payoff.
 

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