Clutch replacement - 2010

[XP900]

I had some weird car issues the other day but the main one was clutch slippage. Just started and proved it by going up a hill in 4th with boost. Slips a little at 3K and then quickly regrabs so it is driveable for the time being under normal driving.

Trying figure out what to replace it with - 2010 with 51k and about 630-650 RWHP and don't expect it to go much higher - Gen2R on 93. Street driving, no tracking and no burnouts, occasional boosts while driving.

It seems like the 2013-14 stock Ford clutch may be fine for my setup. I'll replace the pilot bearing along with the TOB since my fluid gets black fast, already replaced lines.

Do I need to replace the flywheel too with a 2013-14?? I'll replace the clutch and pressure plate as a kit.

Lastly...can I pull the trans with the total car up about 13 inches?? I just replaced the exhaust and put in an MGW shifter over the winter....bad timing!

 

[HKusp]

I was at about 20more RWHP than you and I had the McLeod RXT. I REALLY liked it. Much better feel than the stock clutch according to others who had the ability to do the comparison. I beat on it pretty good on a daily driven car and it never didn't hold the power.

 

[beefcake]

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[SCGallo2]

A 2013-14 stock clutch would work with your application. I almost went with that full setup myself for the best driveability but was concerned with the possibility of a high clutch pedal engagement point, which I despise. Do your research so you aren't surprised with the final product. In the end, I chose to rebuild my Spec SS clutch assembly with an organic clutch pack, and I am pleased with the results for my application.

I removed my transmission (slid it back) and replaced my clutch assembly in my garage with my car on 8 inch Race Ramps and rear wheel cribs, using a transmission floor jack. The transmission won't slide out from under the car with it that low.

 

[Catmonkey]

I pretty sure 2010 to 2014 use the same flywheel, so you should be okay. 13 inches from ride height should be enough. You can tilt the transmission forward if the bell housing can't clear the bottom of the car to remove it from under the car. Get hold of a shop manual, it's not quite as simple as pulling the transmission. You have to clock the transmission and drop the rear portion of the k-member to get it out of the car. It's also possible for a larger supercharger to restrict downward movement of the rear of the engine.

 

[XP900]

A 2013-14 stock clutch would work with your application. I almost went with that full setup myself for the best driveability but was concerned with the possibility of a high clutch pedal engagement point, which I despise. Do your research so you aren't surprised with the final product. In the end, I chose to rebuild my Spec SS clutch assembly with an organic clutch pack, and I am pleased with the results for my application.

I removed my transmission (slid it back) and replaced my clutch assembly in my garage with my car on 8 inch Race Ramps and rear wheel cribs, using a transmission floor jack. The transmission won't slide out from under the car with it that low.

I can get my car up pretty high with the tall 6 ton jackstands in the rear. I just need to be able to slide the tranny back a few feet out of the way.

Were you able to remove and reinstall the tranny yourself with the tranny floor jack or did you need two people? I'll buy the HF floor jack if one person can do the job by himself. I have removed Chevy and Ford trannys in the past on my back using my body as a tranny jack but I don't think I want to try that trick with the Shelby tranny.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

A 2013-14 stock clutch would work with your application. I almost went with that full setup myself for the best driveability but was concerned with the possibility of a high clutch pedal engagement point, which I despise. Do your research so you aren't surprised with the final product. In the end, I chose to rebuild my Spec SS clutch assembly with an organic clutch pack, and I am pleased with the results for my application.

I removed my transmission (slid it back) and replaced my clutch assembly in my garage with my car on 8 inch Race Ramps and rear wheel cribs, using a transmission floor jack. The transmission won't slide out from under the car with it that low.

As a passenger in his car, I can attest that the clutch holds the power too

 

[SCGallo2]

Were you able to remove and reinstall the tranny yourself with the tranny floor jack or did you need two people? I'll buy the HF floor jack if one person can do the job by himself. I have removed Chevy and Ford trannys in the past on my back using my body as a tranny jack but I don't think I want to try that trick with the Shelby tranny.

I did the entire project by myself, with my girlfriend standing by as a safety observer during the trans removal and reinstallation. I won't lie... removing it by yourself is a chore that will involve swearing, and I would recommend having a friend assist with the actual removal and reinstallation steps once you have done all of the prep work. The trans was waaayyy heavier than I expected for a manual. I have mechanical skills above the average do-it-yourselfer, I am stubborn and persistent, I have the funds to fix stuff if I break it, and I know when I am in over my head. Plan on loosening the front and rear k-member bolts and raising the body a 1/2" or so and you will greatly appreciate the additional firewall clearance that gives you during transmission removal and reinstallation. Here is the trans floor jack that I ordered for the task, and it worked just fine:

 

[XP900]

I did the entire project by myself, with my girlfriend standing by as a safety observer during the trans removal and reinstallation. I won't lie... removing it by yourself is a chore that will involve swearing, and I would recommend having a friend assist with the actual removal and reinstallation steps once you have done all of the prep work. The trans was waaayyy heavier than I expected for a manual. I have mechanical skills above the average do-it-yourselfer, I am stubborn and persistent, I have the funds to fix stuff if I break it, and I know when I am in over my head. Plan on loosening the front and rear k-member bolts and raising the body a 1/2" or so and you will greatly appreciate the additional firewall clearance that gives you during transmission removal and reinstallation. Here is the trans floor jack that I ordered for the task, and it worked just fine:

View attachment 1724674

That's the jack I was looking at --HF ...just what I need, another jack in my garage.

Question.. I read the manual. Looks doable by me. What is the reason for rotating the tranny 45 degrees to remove? Are there dowels in place whereas you have to pull the tranny back a half inch before you can rotate it or are the mating surfaces completely flat.
The 45 degree rotation would seem to be an issue with that jack.

I wish this frickin clutch went last summer. Over the winter I had the driveshaft, exhaust pipes and cats removed and the tranny already lowered for a bunch of mods I did....new cats, pipes, MGW, wideband, braces and jacking rails.

 

[blue 07]

Just had my Mc Cleod RXT installed yesterday in my 2013 GT500. Although a very small amount of chatter which will disappear, the pedal feel is great. I had it installed by one of the Ford dealers I deal with by a longtime friend and 40 year Ford mechanic, dropped it off at 8:00 picked it up at 3:00, $600.00. Just an option if you don't want to crawl around on the floor all day

 

[XP900]

Just had my Mc Cleod RXT installed yesterday in my 2013 GT500. Although a very small amount of chatter which will disappear, the pedal feel is great. I had it installed by one of the Ford dealers I deal with by a longtime friend and 40 year Ford mechanic, dropped it off at 8:00 picked it up at 3:00, $600.00. Just an option if you don't want to crawl around on the floor all day

Thanks,,, that's not a bad price considering the amount of work. I'm on the fence as to whether I want to do it myself over the winter. Send me a PM with your dealer info. NH is not that far from me.

I have reservations about the RXT since I read a lot of complaints about issues like vibrations in the 1-2K rpm range. I don't want any after install issues so I'm leaning more towards the Ford 2014 parts.

 

[SCGallo2]

Question.. I read the manual. Looks doable by me. What is the reason for rotating the tranny 45 degrees to remove? Are there dowels in place whereas you have to pull the tranny back a half inch before you can rotate it or are the mating surfaces completely flat. The 45 degree rotation would seem to be an issue with that jack.

You have to rotate the trans for the bellhousing to clear the firewall. IIRC, there is a dowel on each side, so you have to slide the trans back about a 1/2" then rotate it 45 degrees. The input shaft will still be inside the pilot bearing supporting a lot of weight so it isn't that difficult. The pain is continuing to slide the trans back without the input shaft hanging up on the pressure plate diaphragm spring, while making sure the bellhousing clears the firewall. It is a very tight area. The jack has manually adjustable tilt forward, aft, left, and right and 360 degree swivel casters, so I had no issue rotating the trans with it secured to the jack. Also, I felt like I had to completely remove my MGW G2 shifter assembly to avoid damaging it during removal.

I went the route I did because I knew that the clutch shipment and rebuild process would take a while (ended up being 1 month), and I rather have my car sitting in my garage on blocks than have it sitting in someone's shop collecting dust while waiting for parts. I also like to minimize the work performed on my car by others. While I was waiting, I also installed a new clutch master cylinder since the clutch fluid was purged; I already had a stainless clutch line installed. If you can procure all of the parts and pay a trusted mechanic a $600 flat rate and get your car back the same day... pay the money and have someone else do it.

 

[IronTerp]

I went with the RXT clutch eight years ago in my 07' and it holds 620+ easily. Excellent clutch for track use, durable with good holding power. It takes a bit to break in and will not be as driver friendly as the stock clutch. You'll get used to it after a bit, but takes more effort to achieve smooth gear changes. If that's important to you, may want to consider the 13/14'.

Definitely tough to install on jackstands as others have mentioned. Can be done, but need to take your time and be a little ingenious with jacks. Heavy sucker for sure. I went with new McCleod steel flywheel as well. More weight but felt the torque sustainability and some minor improvement in drive ability was worth it.

 

[XP900]

I went with the RXT clutch eight years ago in my 07' and it holds 620+ easily. Excellent clutch for track use, durable with good holding power. It takes a bit to break in and will not be as driver friendly as the stock clutch. You'll get used to it after a bit, but takes more effort to achieve smooth gear changes. If that's important to you, may want to consider the 13/14'.

Definitely tough to install on jackstands as others have mentioned. Can be done, but need to take your time and be a little ingenious with jacks. Heavy sucker for sure. I went with new McCleod steel flywheel as well. More weight but felt the torque sustainability and some minor improvement in drive ability was worth it.

Yep..thanks. Made up my mind...going with 2013/14 Ford.

 

[JRMotorsports55]

Definitely interested in hearing how it goes as I have a full 13 setup in my basement for my 07 once the stocker goes. Also waiting to get LW driveshaft to install at same time.

 

[biminiLX]

Yep..thanks. Made up my mind...going with 2013/14 Ford.

Stock ‘13-14 will hold your power well.
Very glad I have a few lifts, very much worth the $1500.
Doing this on your back sounds terrible, if you can get a dealer to do it for $600 that’s a no brainer.
Another option is XClutch. I worked with them to develop an organic triple disc to maintain better driveability and most importantly slip for drag racing.
Their dual disc would also work well.
Many dealers/resellers recommend the Mccleod due to margins, but unless you get the heavy duty HD1200 version of the RXT (which has less driveability), several 750+rwhp 500s have had the RXT fail.
Good luck
-J

 

[cobracide]

Went RXT with steel flywheel from an RST. IronTerp - great summary.

 

[einehund]

I know I'm a bit late to the discussion, but I swapped in a 13-14 clutch in 2016 on my 2010. Clutch still feels like stock and ever has since install. I have a Gen2r @665 to the wheels and have no issues with the clutch, be it at the strip or on the road, and during the last 5 years I have NOT been easy on it!

 

[XP900]

Just a note to anyone that needs a clutch replacement. HFreight has their 800lb tranny jack on sale until this Sunday $200 down to $170 (or $160 if you are a club member).

Sale applies to any Pittsburgh product - not just their jacks but they don't stock many tranny jacks at each store.