I bought a set of front and rear differential bushings from a guy on svtp to defer the cost of my full bushing kit. Well I installed the front aluminum bushings today and it was pretty easy and straight forward. I have to say the first drive went well no more thud when going into gears the only extra noise I hear is a hum from about 60-65 any faster and it completely goes away. Also, the driveline vibration when on the highway at 80mph went away. I'm going to have to be careful with that as its more comfortable at higher speeds and I wont know my speed because its so smooth. I will be purchasing the rest and Bruce answered my questions promptly because I really wanted to do the rear diff bushings today but, decided to wait till I get the rest of the kit.
Cobra Mustang IRS Delrin/UHMW/Alum bushing kit w/adj. sway bar links & bumpsteer kit
- Thread starter ac427cobra
- Start date
I ordered the full kit last week, I can't wait to put it in. I've heard nothing but good about it.
I put the whole kit including the heavy duty toe links and sway bar links in my 03 IRS and it was worth every penny! Bruce's videos on his site are extremely helpful and walk you through everything step by step. The removal tools work great and as a whole this kit is extremely well designed and put together. I will gladly recommend the FTBR kit to anyone with an IRS.
I'm looking to install dynamat or other brand of sound deadening to cover the hum I get from my diff due to the aluminum front diff mounts. I was wondering I've never used this stuff where exactly on the car would I put it. In the trunk or under the back seat? Roughly how much would I need to get the job done as well? If its not that much maybe I can swing buy a stereo shop and buy some small pieces. Also, I just read a few threads talking about Peel and Seal that you buy at Lowe's that's a product for roofing that can be used as a cheap dynamat. Anybody know anything about that? I'm all about saving money and getting the same result.
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The Dynamat is really designed more for sound. The roofing stuff may work ok but if you want maximum effect, I'd go with the Dynamatting.
Take out the rear seat and put about a 24" x 24" piece down on the floor pan directly above the differential housing. Drive the car and see how much improvement you have. If you want more put an additional layer on top of that also overlapping all of the outer edges by approximately 6" or so.
After you put the rear seat back in that will also help to insulate the sound as well.
Hope that helps.
I'm not a fan of Dynamat, at least not the base level stuff. In hot areas it can melt and turn into a gooey mess on the floor. I can also create a bad smell when it heats up. You might want to check the sound deadener shoot out website to see the type of insulation that would be best for absorbing the type of noise to are hearing.
I did the roofing stuff (but from a sound place called RAAMAT or something) in the entire trunk up to the back of the front seats/center console.
A lot of work and not really any noticeable difference...wish I hadn't wasted my time/money and added the extra weight.
A lot of work and not really any noticeable difference...wish I hadn't wasted my time/money and added the extra weight.
I'm not going to jump into a commitment like that stuff w/o reading more. I'm sur it's hard to turn back once it's in the car. So I might go to a stereo shop and see if I can just buy the real stuff.
I was wondering I noticed that the T-bird irs had an iron differential center. I was wondering if it would be possible or beneficial to switch to that housing? Just a thought.
I'm fairly certain the T-Bird has a different configuration than the Cobra but we will find out soon. We have a T-Bird IRS in our shop currently.
Yup, it works. I have this in my car. I cracked the front mounting tabs/ears on two Aluminum Cobra pumpkins so we swapped out for a T-bird iron one for the added strength. Ever since the switch, no problems.
Sounds like a good way to have added strength and more traction and better weight distribution. Also, would those units be posi I saw one on craigslist with 373s but, wondering if it would be that much of an upgrade for 04 cobra rear? If I could pick it up for like 50.00 I might play around with it when I get the rearend out.
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Yeah, I think my T-bird pumpkin was a POSI (not all of them are)...but we just tossed all the T-bird internals and put all my stuff from my Cobra housing into the cast iron housing. $50 for the housing is a good deal, though, you would then just have to pay to have it rebuilt with all the internals you want from your Cobra housing or upgraded parts like a true trac or torsen.
Looking for a little help Bruce, I haven't gotten a chance to re-grease the bushings using the grease fittings. What type of grease, how much grease, and where am I able to find it? Thanks!
Any type of synthetic or synthetic blend chassis grease is fine. For most applications put one or two pumps in at every oil change. Be careful pulling the grease gun off when it's under pressure.
Hope that helps.
Although we've struggled a bit this Summer keeping parts in stock due to the overwhelming demand, we currently have everything in stock.
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
all the full tilt boogie parts are top notch... for the subframe (cradle) bushings i found a washer that had a very close OD to the ID of the bushing eye and then put an edge on the washer with a dremel tool . made the bushing removal very easy and less clean up that had to be done with a wire wheel .
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