Comp Orange Mach 1 restoration...

[Recon]

Wow, what a great project. I admire your sticking to completing the project!

Truth be told I was contemplating selling the car because I couldn’t find the time to work on it. It was very frustrating. Thankfully the majority of the issues that had my attention are resolved now. Finally I can return to getting the this Mach to where she deserves to be. I’m hoping to return to the restoration this weekend. The goal is to have the car running on my birthday in late January. So we’ll see.


Pick your poison.

 

[Revvv]

Make it happen.

Sent from my [trashcan S5] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[scottydsntknow]

You are re-using the stock TTY hardware? That's what I got from the other post where you said you were missing a bolt and one was rounded? I hope not that is a no-no, a good set of new OEM TTY hardware is cheap and hopefully that's what you wound up doing.

I hear almost selling the car... damn near sold the one in my sig a few times, only thing that forced me to finish it was the military moving me and it was either get it done asap or part it.

LMK if you have any questions or issues with the build, 4Vs are pretty simple but diff ppl run into diff issues or something is missing or some wire is cut or whatever. To answer your question in a previous post on here the forged cranks are all the exact same Kellog cranks from 96-04 Cobras (minus the R) and the 03/04 Mach. If all you are doing is a stock rebuild or even a higher power build its not needed tho, you could have probably saved a lot of time and money going with any 4.6L cast crank. I used to sell those for $120 shipped in mint condition. Those are good for plenty of power (like 600+) but if you already have forged you already have foreged and G2G there. Just some info for a future project maybe.

Also let me know if you have any IRS questions. I did that whole thing too lol. At this point that rubber is gonna be dry rotted and shot, the cross axis links are probably done too and its never going to be easier to do all of it then now. I did full tilt control arm bushings, full tilt cross axis links, prothane subframe bushings, prothane front differential bushings and full tilt rear diff bushing. Plus new swaybar endlinks, bigger rear swaybar and I did a diff brace but found out after that they are basically gimmicks so save your $$$ with that unless you wanted to do the FRPP diff cover. Lube Locker rear seal when i did the fluid. Did it all with hand tools and a lot of 4 letter words and had to order a lot of the metric grade 10.9 hardware from Fastenal because all the local places had REALLY limited 10.9 stuff. But so worth it in the end.

Can't wait to see how yours turns out! Just keep getting something done every few days or every weekend and making progress on it and it'll start looking like a whole car pretty fast.

 

[Recon]

You are re-using the stock TTY hardware? That's what I got from the other post where you said you were missing a bolt and one was rounded? I hope not that is a no-no, a good set of new OEM TTY hardware is cheap and hopefully that's what you wound up doing.

It was to end my paranoia. I wanted to see how everything looked bolted up. My dealer wasn’t able to have all of them, that day so I got a pack (4). The used crank had me worried even though my machine shop gave it a pass.

[/QUOTE] I hear almost selling the car... damn near sold the one in my sig a few times, only thing that forced me to finish it was the military moving me and it was either get it done asap or part it.[/QUOTE]


I remember when you got it. My urge to drive the car was increasing while nothing was getting done. Very frustrating. But now I’m back on the restoration and hopefully I’ll have it running before it gets warm here.


[/QUOTE]LMK if you have any questions or issues with the build, 4Vs are pretty simple but diff ppl run into diff issues or something is missing or some wire is cut or whatever. To answer your question in a previous post on here the forged cranks are all the exact same Kellog cranks from 96-04 Cobras (minus the R) and the 03/04 Mach. If all you are doing is a stock rebuild or even a higher power build its not needed tho, you could have probably saved a lot of time and money going with any 4.6L cast crank. I used to sell those for $120 shipped in mint condition. Those are good for plenty of power (like 600+) but if you already have forged you already have foreged and G2G there. Just some info for a future project maybe.[/QUOTE]


I want the car as factory as possible, rotating assembly wise. Nothing but a factory ford forged 8 bolt crank was going in this engine. Though I already know it’s not needed, and boost is a much better alternative; I want to cam it. It’s got 97 Cobra cams right now, but later on it’ll get Comp’s. I’m not porting anything either. I know my plans are strange to most and to the level of bizarre but this is what I want to do with the car.


[/QUOTE]Also let me know if you have any IRS questions. I did that whole thing too lol. At this point that rubber is gonna be dry rotted and shot, the cross axis links are probably done too and its never going to be easier to do all of it then now. I did full tilt control arm bushings, full tilt cross axis links, prothane subframe bushings, prothane front differential bushings and full tilt rear diff bushing. Plus new swaybar endlinks, bigger rear swaybar and I did a diff brace but found out after that they are basically gimmicks so save your $$$ with that unless you wanted to do the FRPP diff cover. Lube Locker rear seal when i did the fluid. Did it all with hand tools and a lot of 4 letter words and had to order a lot of the metric grade 10.9 hardware from Fastenal because all the local places had REALLY limited 10.9 stuff. But so worth it in the end. [/QUOTE]


The plan is to have a brushing kit installed with some springs and shock/struts. No coil overs. This isn’t going to be my race car and I don’t want it over 400rwhp. So, I don’t need it be race car level and I do enjoy the challenge of a slightly unruly car.

Can't wait to see how yours turns out! Just keep getting something done every few days or every weekend and making progress on it and it'll start looking like a whole car pretty fast.

That’s the plan. I’m already in contact with a late model mustang restoration shop that will do the body work on the car. I also have a friend of mine who knows someone, that parts out terminator’s for a living, that’s going to let me know when the guy gets a Comp Orange Terminator. So I can rob some parts of off it. I’m excited

Edit: sorry for the butchered mess. I thought the quotes would work, but I guess not.



Pick your poison.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Quotes aren't working because there is a backslash on the front, remove that and it'll clean up this and any future posts. Forum should do it automatically tho... meh... weird.

Also, suggest with the IRS, and I'm kicking myself for not doing this when it was totally apart and the pumpkin was sitting on the garage floor, take it apart and do carbon fiber differential discs. $100 and with the pumpkin out it'll take like an hour on a workbench if that. I'm running into issues with every now and then I'll spin one wheel and it'll get loose with honestly not very much throttle applied. Fun...

I didn't and am not doing coilovers either. I don't see the point since I don't need the adjustability and I like not beating the shit out of the strut and shock towers too. I'm doing Tokico D specs and HR Reds with poly isolators. Done.

Post more pics as you go, would love to see progress.

 

[Recon]

Quotes aren't working because there is a backslash on the front, remove that and it'll clean up this and any future posts. Forum should do it automatically tho... meh... weird.

Also, suggest with the IRS, and I'm kicking myself for not doing this when it was totally apart and the pumpkin was sitting on the garage floor, take it apart and do carbon fiber differential discs. $100 and with the pumpkin out it'll take like an hour on a workbench if that. I'm running into issues with every now and then I'll spin one wheel and it'll get loose with honestly not very much throttle applied. Fun...

I didn't and am not doing coilovers either. I don't see the point since I don't need the adjustability and I like not beating the shit out of the strut and shock towers too. I'm doing Tokico D specs and HR Reds with poly isolators. Done.

Post more pics as you go, would love to see progress.

I’m assuming you’re referring to freshen up the discs in my IRS. I was under the impression the Terminator IRS already has carbon clutch discs in the IRS.

I’ve got an idea on what I’m going to do, suspension wise; but I’m just not into mix matching parts on the car. With that in mine I’m thinking of a MM strut and spring kit. Added with my bushing kit for the rear I think the car will be a nice corner carver for my tastes.


Pick your poison.

 

[Recon]

Made an offer on this DSG Mach today. Thinking I’m going to rob some parts off of it for my CO. The body is beat all to hell, but that’s not really what I’m interested in. Then again I might like the car and decide to keep it as a driver.


Pick your poison.

 

[Recon]

Little update. We’re starting o the car hot and heavy. The goal now is to have the car road worthy by August.

We got the crank in and had a couple of issues. Issues arose during torque angle and were resolved with new parts ordered from ford. That went on for about 2 weeks, fast forward to yesterday.

My boss had the suspicion the rings were wrong so they went to the machine shop for inspection. After confirmation they were correct the machine shop installed the rings. Got them back and installed the pistons and rods yesterday. Things went pretty smoothly just time consuming. Both torque sequences were done along with torque angle. Next will be the heads which have the B head cobra cams in them for now.
Later down the road I’ll swap them out for some Comps. I’ve discussed with a friend of mine some other modifications to consider doing to the engine. It’s nothing major, my intentions are still the same as day one. Make this car what I want and not what is the norm. It’s will remain N/A but it will not be a max effort N/A build. No porting will be done but some other mods will be considered. All depends how the funds look once the car is running.
Which is the goal right now is nothing will be spent on mods, at this moment, unless it’s a necessity in getting the car road worthy.


Pick your poison.

 

[Recon]

Little update. We’re starting o the car hot and heavy. The goal now is to have the car road worthy by August.

We got the crank in and had a couple of issues. Issues arose during torque angle and were resolved with new parts ordered from ford. That went on for about 2 weeks, fast forward to yesterday.

My boss had the suspicion the rings were wrong so they went to the machine shop for inspection. After confirmation they were correct the machine shop installed the rings. Got them back and installed the pistons and rods yesterday. Things went pretty smoothly just time consuming. Both torque sequences were done along with torque angle. Next will be the heads which have the B head cobra cams in them for now.
Later down the road I’ll swap them out for some Comps. I’ve discussed with a friend of mine some other modifications to consider doing to the engine. It’s nothing major, my intentions are still the same as day one. Make this car what I want and not what is the norm. It’s will remain N/A but it will not be a max effort N/A build. No porting will be done but some other mods will be considered. All depends how the funds look once the car is running.
Which is the goal right now is nothing will be spent on mods, at this moment, unless it’s a necessity in getting the car road worthy.


Pick your poison.

 

[Mojo88]

Lookin' good!

Hey, what is "torque angle"? I've been messing with cars for almost 50 years and haven't heard that one.

 

[Recon]

Once the torque sequences were done you’re also supposed to do an addition 90 degree turn on the bolts. Referred to as torque angle.


Pick your poison.

 

[Recon]

Little update. I’ve been gathering more parts. Thankfully Ford hasn’t discontinued most parts for the R code. I have a new OEM oil pump and I’m getting ready to order a new Ford timing kit for the engine. It’ll take a couple of days to get here. After that I can continue with the engine rebuild.
On an additional side note, the folks on Mach 1 Registry ran my VIN for me and informed me that my Mach is an early production 2004. Birthday is October 16, 2003.


Pick your poison.

 

[MattN03]

Great thread and glad to see Mach 1 being restored!

 

[Recon]

Great thread and glad to see Mach 1 being restored!

Truth be told it’s a standstill yet again. I’m attempting to acquire 2 more vehicles while selling 2. After that and another venture is paid for then the restoration will resume.


Pick your poison.