Coolant splash..

Roush6018

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hey it looks like you used the wrong type of tester for this job. i know you are using what you have available but this didnt work. you are using, i guess, an air gas tester not meant to get wet.

i saw my lead mechanic at work take a sample of coolant from the reservoir and it is measured in a glass beaker, then i think he had some dye drops that go into the coolant sample to determine if there is exhaust gas inside your coolant. this is a proper way to perform the "head gasket failure diagnosis"

if you have loss of power complaint as well then i would guess 2 cylinders are low on compression due to the head gasket leaking your compression into the cooling system.

i have a EASY way to check as well. while the car is cold, check the pressure on the radiator hose by squeeze with your hand. then start the car and let it run for 1 min, then shut it off. now check if that upper radiator hose has pressure that was not there 1 min ago. the water in that system will only make 5-10 psi ONCE ITS HOT, so in 1 min that coolant didnt get hot, so if there is any pressure it came from your cylinder compression.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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hey it looks like you used the wrong type of tester for this job. i know you are using what you have available but this didnt work. you are using, i guess, an air gas tester not meant to get wet.

i saw my lead mechanic at work take a sample of coolant from the reservoir and it is measured in a glass beaker, then i think he had some dye drops that go into the coolant sample to determine if there is exhaust gas inside your coolant. this is a proper way to perform the "head gasket failure diagnosis"

if you have loss of power complaint as well then i would guess 2 cylinders are low on compression due to the head gasket leaking your compression into the cooling system.

i have a EASY way to check as well. while the car is cold, check the pressure on the radiator hose by squeeze with your hand. then start the car and let it run for 1 min, then shut it off. now check if that upper radiator hose has pressure that was not there 1 min ago. the water in that system will only make 5-10 psi ONCE ITS HOT, so in 1 min that coolant didnt get hot, so if there is any pressure it came from your cylinder compression.
Not sure that’s valid in this case - if it’s only lifting at high rpm under boost it’s probably fine the other 99.5% of the time
 

SVT_S5

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hey it looks like you used the wrong type of tester for this job. i know you are using what you have available but this didnt work. you are using, i guess, an air gas tester not meant to get wet.

i saw my lead mechanic at work take a sample of coolant from the reservoir and it is measured in a glass beaker, then i think he had some dye drops that go into the coolant sample to determine if there is exhaust gas inside your coolant. this is a proper way to perform the "head gasket failure diagnosis"

if you have loss of power complaint as well then i would guess 2 cylinders are low on compression due to the head gasket leaking your compression into the cooling system.

i have a EASY way to check as well. while the car is cold, check the pressure on the radiator hose by squeeze with your hand. then start the car and let it run for 1 min, then shut it off. now check if that upper radiator hose has pressure that was not there 1 min ago. the water in that system will only make 5-10 psi ONCE ITS HOT, so in 1 min that coolant didnt get hot, so if there is any pressure it came from your cylinder compression.

Thanks for your suggestions, Roush.

Actually the device does detect gases in fluids. I also tried it at the rim of the coolant reservoir hole, barely touching the coolant; same thing.

I don’t think I have power loss, I just asked if that would cause performance issues. I get extremely paranoid when something goes wrong and start asking if that would affect this and that :)

Believe it or not, I’m still 70% certain the hg is gone.

I called a friend with a compression test gauge, and he told me it wont give accurate results (Gauge is bad but would give an idea in compression differences between cylinders) we tried it anyway when the car was cold:

1: 100
2: 100
3: 115
4: 100
5: 100
6: 115
7: 100
8: 115

Will try the squeeze method today!


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Roush6018

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you are doing a good job trying to pinpoint the failure so you can get the car fixed correctly. i am glad to see a result of the compression test. i can see the problem is the number 7 cylinder. i can see another problem with the 1-2 cylinder.

so in theory when you are pushing the car at 18psi boost there is approx 118psi on the low cylinders and approx 133psi in the other cylinders. your loss of power complaint is telling me there is possibly low compression in 3-4 cylinders.

these cars are pushing 150-160 psi in each cylinder on a good engine and with a good headgasket in my car it never over heats or boils over in 100 degrees day outside. and am running stock upper pulley at 7psi boost.

i suggest this; remove all 8 spark plugs and try to fill up your coolant reservoir and then try to pressurize the coolant reservoir (15psi) and try to see if any cylinders are filling up with any water or only tiny drops of coolant in the cylinder will be a failed headgasket seal.
 

pridemore54

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Just to add my two cents;

I had this exact thing happen to me two months ago. My coolant was spraying at my windshield on WOT, and only on 2nd gear pulls. Coolant on mine is like new however.

After some testing and checking, I'm 99% sure it was just the coolant cap seal. I tightened it a bit more and she hasn't done it since then.

Currently at 24psi on stock engine.
 

MG0h3

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Overflow tank looks overfilled also.

It could just be leaking and the airflow under the hood is spraying it all over.


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SVT_S5

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you are doing a good job trying to pinpoint the failure so you can get the car fixed correctly. i am glad to see a result of the compression test. i can see the problem is the number 7 cylinder. i can see another problem with the 1-2 cylinder.

so in theory when you are pushing the car at 18psi boost there is approx 118psi on the low cylinders and approx 133psi in the other cylinders. your loss of power complaint is telling me there is possibly low compression in 3-4 cylinders.

these cars are pushing 150-160 psi in each cylinder on a good engine and with a good headgasket in my car it never over heats or boils over in 100 degrees day outside. and am running stock upper pulley at 7psi boost.

i suggest this; remove all 8 spark plugs and try to fill up your coolant reservoir and then try to pressurize the coolant reservoir (15psi) and try to see if any cylinders are filling up with any water or only tiny drops of coolant in the cylinder will be a failed headgasket seal.

I actually changed my plugs 2 weeks ago, not a single drop of coolant inside any hole (I did a couple of WOT pulls the day before) but if that is necessary, I’ll gladly do it. Will ask around if anyone has a coolant pressure test kit.

Again, I really appreciate your help and the help of the guys/gals of this wonderful forums!


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SVT_S5

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Just to add my two cents;

I had this exact thing happen to me two months ago. My coolant was spraying at my windshield on WOT, and only on 2nd gear pulls. Coolant on mine is like new however.

After some testing and checking, I'm 99% sure it was just the coolant cap seal. I tightened it a bit more and she hasn't done it since then.

Currently at 24psi on stock engine.

Mine sprays only on 3rd and 6th.

I have tightened it and kept rotating it 23 times (Yes, I kept counting) and believe it or not it didn’t spray any at wot!

Finger crossed it’s not a hg and only needs a new tank which I already purchased.


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SVT_S5

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Overflow tank looks overfilled also.

It could just be leaking and the airflow under the hood is spraying it all over.


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Good point. I’ll use my little fluid pump to lower coolant level a bit and do a couple of pulls to verify.


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Roush6018

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there is going to be some news on this car coming up this month or so. its all good news too so don't be worried. when you get this car fixed its very fun to drive, but seeing it in the shop taken apart can be frustrating . A proper diagnosis is the only way to fix your vehicle correctly.

i want you to install the new reservoir and cap with new coolant. then you should be able to make a couple pulls through the week and see if anything changes.

if you have no coolant leaks from the cap area and vehicle does not overheat, you are good to go!

however, if you have a coolant leak from the cap with a brand new coolant reservoir, this means you are making more than 16psi in the cooling system and that pressure is not just from the 2 gallons of coolant getting warm and making that much pressure. it is part of the compression that should be in all the 8 cylinders leaking in 1 little spot into your coolant causing the overflow.
 

SVT_S5

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there is going to be some news on this car coming up this month or so. its all good news too so don't be worried. when you get this car fixed its very fun to drive, but seeing it in the shop taken apart can be frustrating . A proper diagnosis is the only way to fix your vehicle correctly.

i want you to install the new reservoir and cap with new coolant. then you should be able to make a couple pulls through the week and see if anything changes.

if you have no coolant leaks from the cap area and vehicle does not overheat, you are good to go!

however, if you have a coolant leak from the cap with a brand new coolant reservoir, this means you are making more than 16psi in the cooling system and that pressure is not just from the 2 gallons of coolant getting warm and making that much pressure. it is part of the compression that should be in all the 8 cylinders leaking in 1 little spot into your coolant causing the overflow.

Thanks for the encouragement, Roush! Really appreciate it.

I agree, seeing it taken apart is heartbreaking, it’s just frustrating seeing my Cobra wounded and not my Stage 3+ Audi which are known for their non existent reliability; I beat on it every once and awhile and not a single issue, had the WP fail on me 2 years ago but that’s it!

Maybe it’s my luck but hey, these things happen I guess!

I started saving for a potential HG, cracked block or heads and engine tear down just in case.

As a last resort, I ordered the coolant pressure kit @LV_Ford_Fan mentioned, and contacted Mytivac and asked if the kit would detect exhaust gases in coolant or a blown HG and they said yes it easily would then referred me to a how-to video.

Keeping my hopes up!


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Roush6018

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man i was wondering why the cobra engine is so delicate. i know people do like to work on cars for fun. i have spent years fixing my cobra and it is working pretty dang good now. however when compared to an Audi, the ownership is different . i think a older mustang is meant to be worked on replacing old ford parts with new aftermarket ones. the cobra being the best model is true but its built with parts that were not meant to last because the owner wanted to change this or that for fun. even having a stock cobra and riding in a 600 hp plus cobra makes you want to pull the engine and make more power.

the coolant test kit you ordered is exactly what you need to correctly test the coolant you were running when the problem occurred.

when the repairs are made, its worth all the trouble because your car will run great and the value will be not affected by any flaws mechanically.
 

SVT_S5

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A follow-up:

So I have used the Mytivac pressure test kit, and there is a 5-6 psi pressure in coolant with no pressure applied at all (0 pressure when cold, pressure builds up as car warming up), car is at operating temperature:


bb22e3986d6c3312f730831c65a33b05.jpg


And here with 16 psi already applied:

f5ad2b2d644790ef8d37c220c0f092c9.jpg


HG i guess..?


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Black02GT

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My guess HG. I had the same shit. My issue was a long sad story behind but builder didn't torque the studs right. Died a couple weeks later was sick as hell and working to the end but guess wasn't at the the top of his game.

Purged a number of times, vac filled the whole 9.

Passed the exhaust gas test, no smoke but under heavy load would puke. I pulled it and next builder said he thinks the last step on torque down was never done.

Keep in mind ARP 2000 studs and Cometic gaskets.

TLDR: went passed all the tests and still was a HG issue. Not saying it your's just keep it in mind. Granted over 20 psi at 10.6:1 so not being nice to it.
 
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SVT_S5

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My guess HG. I had the same shit. My issue was a long sad story behind but builder didn't torque the studs right. Died a couple weeks later was sick as hell and working to the end but guess wasn't at the the top of his game.

Purged a number of times, vac filled the whole 9.

Passed the exhaust gas test, no smoke but under heavy load would puke. I pulled it and next builder said he thinks the last step on torque down was never done.

Keep in mind ARP 2000 studs and Cometic gaskets.

TLDR: went passed all the tests and still was a HG issue. Not saying it your's just keep it in mind. Granted over 20 psi at 10.6:1 so not being nice to it.

Damn, sad story indeed! R.I.P

Yeah I give up, I’m pulling the motor when I have the funds.

In the meantime I will install the Moroso tank and do a coolant flush and test. I’m sure there’s no point of doing so but tank, coolant and coolant flush already purchased ;(


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