Cooling mods in general

[Vigilante]

Man it's been a while...

So after ten long years I finally think the rebuild is gonna happen, but I've been gone so long there's so many new things available. I just want to make sure the best route for cooling mods is still the head cooling mod and the crossover delete??

I've also stumbled upon the LFP even flow mod? What is that and how does it work? Is it better than a crossover delete?

What about radiators and fans? Surely the 180degree thermo/Mark VII fan upgrade has been replaced by an aftermarket version right?

I'm in the desert so this not exactly an area I want to experiment with... Please and Thank you!

 

[SNAKEYE]

For my money, after putting in a two-core radiator, a 180-degree F t-stat, an auxiliary 'pusher' fan in front of the radiator at the bottom right corner, and a high-flow water pump, the most effective mod was to lower the fan-on temperature by putting a second stock ECT sensor in parallel (thermally and electrically) with the stock unit. This lowered the fan-on temperature to 180-degrees F and the fan-off temperature to 162-degree F. It doesn't turn off much!

 

[9397SVTs]

I'm in the Phoenix area. To keeps temps under control, I have done simple/proven upgrades to the cooling system. I have the head cooling mod, aluminum radiator, 180* thermostat, adjusted the on/off parameters of the factory fan, electric water pump, and Redline Waterwetter. The car also runs on E54.

I have a '97 Cobra and had a '90 5L with these basic mod's.(the 5L had an aftermarket fan) Both are turbocharged and I never had any problems. Neither is a daily driver, so they weren't spending a lot of time idling in the summer heat. However, each car experienced bumper to bumper traffic on I-10, in the summer, on several occasions.

 

[scottydsntknow]

Hot as **** literal wind off Africa in the summer heat in Southern Spain (active military in Europe) and 0 issues with a new stock replacement Rockauto radiator, new water pump and a DIY head cooling mod. Mod is a 2nd crack pipe fitting and a hose that Ts into the upper coolant return line on the rad. Dropped the temp at 7 and 8 by 20 degrees, coolant gauge never breaks 200F even in 100+ Spanish summer heat when I drive it inland.

The factory coolant systems are honestly pretty robust, I have not had any issues with anything I've owned SN95/New Edge wise. If its gonna be 110-120F in Phoenix maybe upgrade to a beefier radiator and have the fan kick on earlier in the tune but that's all I'd do.

 

[shurur]

oem or two core AL radiator, oem fan with edge gasketing around the fan shroud, 170 tstat,..maybe small diy air dam between bumper and lower radiator and PWM fan controller

HCM can be done as you get to it..

aside: My champion three core just cracked at the corners after just a year....back to OEM now..

 

[scottydsntknow]

Car had a Fluidyne on it when I got it. Took it to a rad shop that took one look at it and asked me if I wanted them to scrap it or if I wanted to take it back with me lol.

 

[Shifty Powers]

in for this

 

[Vigilante]

This is probably a dumb question, but is there a specific part number for the 180* thermostat?

Or do I just ask a parts store for a Cobra thermostat rated for 180*?

 

[SNAKEYE]

NAPA THM-109

 

[scottydsntknow]

I'd just buy a 170 Termi Stat, jrgoffin has been selling them for like forever now and they work great. its termi-stat.com or something. you can just google it.

edit: yeah that is the site and the stats he sells are stant made in usa units.