Cooling System Re-configuration?

[SecondhandSnake]

I'm looking to clean up the engine bay and make a little more room in the front, and the cooling system is a big target for that.

As it stands, the factory setup is pretty complex and takes up tons of room. There's got to be some room for improvement. I'm looking at a few options-

1.) Delete surge tank, put pressure cap in the upper radiator hose. Will that leave me with enough margin and de-aeration capability?
2.) Delete bypass line with in-line thermostat in the upper radiator hose. Hope that there's enough flow through the heater core to function as an efficient bypass.

...or is the stock setup the best one, and just live with it?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

 

[04Mach1Blurr]

I'm about to delete the radiator over flow tank and put a moroso overlfow can in the fender as well with the filler/ radiator cap on the upper radiator hose. From the guys i've seen do it on here, they havent had any problems. I don't really think that would help with any cooling or higher temps.

 

[2003cobra22]

Check out these links
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/28581-Keeping-your-cool
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/160562-Simplify-your-cooling-system

 

[SlowSVT]

I'm looking to clean up the engine bay and make a little more room in the front, and the cooling system is a big target for that.

As it stands, the factory setup is pretty complex and takes up tons of room. There's got to be some room for improvement. I'm looking at a few options-

1.) Delete surge tank, put pressure cap in the upper radiator hose. Will that leave me with enough margin and de-aeration capability?
2.) Delete bypass line with in-line thermostat in the upper radiator hose. Hope that there's enough flow through the heater core to function as an efficient bypass.

...or is the stock setup the best one, and just live with it?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

I would be a little reluctant making big changes in the cooling system for the sake of a cleaner looking engine compartment. Should something go wrong here (most likely when you need it the most) would be very expensive. The expansion tank needs to be above the highest point of a radiator which will reduce the likelihood of air pockets forming getting trapped in the heads which causes hot spots or worse. That fat factory bypass hose will allow the pump to circulate a large volume of water thru the engine which will maintain a more uniform cooling throughout the engine before the thermostat opens up.

I completely redesigned my cooling system but it's not to far off from the factory plumbing. My engine will be the last thing that gets assembled but that is a ways off where I should piece the components on the engine and do a write-up as people are always looking for ways to do things and exchange ideas.

if I were in your shoes there is something I would consider which should improve things on several fronts.

1) move your battery to the trunk of you haven't done so already

2) While the factory expansion tank is probably the best set-up as a few of the aftermarket aluminum tanks have been known to burst just after the weld (even a few factory tanks have burst). The main thing I don't like about the factory tank is that it obscures a lot of the airflow out the hood extractors. If your vents are open and there is no tank there you can now see the exhaust side of the rad looking down on the closed hood. What I plan on doing is making a very sturdy aluminum expansion tank and locating it high in the inside fenderwell where the battery use to be. That would do wonders for both the appearance and the functional requirements.

I'm not a big fan of the factory system that returns the heater core discharge and returns it right back to the engine which is done to get heat into the cabin quicker. I AN plugged the hole in the cylinder valley in the block so now all the coolant goes thru the rad. If the blower is still on the engine you could cap the metal tube off at the back of the engine.

I made my own thermostat housing which really cleaned the system up dramatically. You may have already seen this post but perhaps you may get ideas of your own. This is a bit of work and I don't expect too many people will venture out this far but I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...or-improved-flow&highlight=thermostat+housing

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I would be a little reluctant making big changes in the cooling system for the sake of a cleaner looking engine compartment. Should something go wrong here (most likely when you need it the most) would be very expensive. The expansion tank needs to be above the highest point of a radiator which will reduce the likelihood of air pockets forming getting trapped in the heads which causes hot spots or worse. That fat factory bypass hose will allow the pump to circulate a large volume of water thru the engine which will maintain a more uniform cooling throughout the engine before the thermostat opens up.

I completely redesigned my cooling system but it's not to far off from the factory plumbing. My engine will be the last thing that gets assembled but that is a ways off where I should piece the components on the engine and do a write-up as people are always looking for ways to do things and exchange ideas.

if I were in your shoes there is something I would consider which should improve things on several fronts.

1) move your battery to the trunk of you haven't done so already

2) While the factory expansion tank is probably the best set-up as a few of the aftermarket aluminum tanks have been known to burst just after the weld (even a few factory tanks have burst). The main thing I don't like about the factory tank is that it obscures a lot of the airflow out the hood extractors. If your vents are open and there is no tank there you can now see the exhaust side of the rad looking down on the closed hood. What I plan on doing is making a very sturdy aluminum expansion tank and locating it high in the inside fenderwell where the battery use to be. That would do wonders for both the appearance and the functional requirements.

I'm not a big fan of the factory system that returns the heater core discharge and returns it right back to the engine which is done to get heat into the cabin quicker. I AN plugged the hole in the cylinder valley in the block so now all the coolant goes thru the rad. If the blower is still on the engine you could cap the metal tube off at the back of the engine.

I made my own thermostat housing which really cleaned the system up dramatically. You may have already seen this post but perhaps you may get ideas of your own. This is a bit of work and I don't expect too many people will venture out this far but I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...or-improved-flow&highlight=thermostat+housing

I will admit that the Ford design in principle is a pretty good design. Surge tanks are the way to go for deaeration and preventing cavitation.

My battery is already relocated, and this isn't being done for looks, but for space.

As is, my major thought is that the current bypass line is bigger than it needs to be, and has the potential to be eliminated, especially since there's already bypass flow from the heater core. It's also the part that takes up the most space. With that gone I could use a generic surge tank, 2V lower hose, and remote thermostat housing on the water outlet.

I also did like the promise of that Evans water pump. That could be a big benefit.

It goes without saying that airflow through the radiator will be improved regardless. The stock surge tank will get removed, and the radiator will get boxed in to prevent recirculation. That alone should be a nice little improvement.

 

[SlowSVT]

I will admit that the Ford design in principle is a pretty good design. Surge tanks are the way to go for deaeration and preventing cavitation.

My battery is already relocated, and this isn't being done for looks, but for space. I would think you put it back there to improved weight distribution.

As is, my major thought is that the current bypass line is bigger than it needs to be, and has the potential to be eliminated, especially since there's already bypass flow from the heater core. It's also the part that takes up the most space. With that gone I could use a generic surge tank, 2V lower hose, and remote thermostat housing on the water outlet. The bypass being "bigger than it needs to be" is kinda subjective (I always thought is was too small LOL). With regard to coolant lines my philosophy is better to go "bigger" than "smaller". Some guys have replaced 1 1/4" factory crossover outlet with a pair of AN12 (5/8" OD) fittings :uh oh: For the life of me I can't even fathom someone trying to justify doing something like that. Ford went with even bigger lines on the GT500.

I also did like the promise of that Evans water pump. That could be a big benefit. I think the Evens pump is no longer available which is too bad. The curved blades should create less cavitation over the "paddle wheel" factory sheet metal impeller. Other than that the factory pump does what it's suppose to

It goes without saying that airflow through the radiator will be improved regardless. The stock surge tank will get removed, and the radiator will get boxed in to prevent recirculation. That alone should be a nice little improvement. sealing up the inlet to the rad is probably one of the most effective cooling mods you can do. A small shroud at the bottom trailing edge of the rad should smooth the air exiting from the bottom.

I'd keep the big bypass line. The cooling system will struggle more to uniformly warm the engine after start-up relying solely on the heatercore line. Just something to consider.

:burnout:

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I'd keep the big bypass line. The cooling system will struggle more to uniformly warm the engine after start-up relying solely on the heatercore line. Just something to consider.

:burnout:

I'm used to working with 9+L engines that only use an internal 1/2"-5/8" bypass line, and they seem to do fine. I would imagine a dinky 4.6 shouldn't require more than that, especially since it operates at significantly higher RPM, which would mean higher flow.

The Evans pump being discontinued would explain why I can't seem to find one (or their inline thermostat housings w/bypass.) Which is quite a shame, because the factory impeller design leaves much to be desired. That stamped sheet metal design doesn't look all that great, especially in comparison to the Evans in all its cast/machined impeller glory, which I would imagine both increase flow and reduce the chance of cavitation.

What I'm looking at now is essentially a modified stock setup:
In-line thermostat housing in the upper hose. This should give a better thermostat response based on the fact it is located pre-radiator, and it will mean I won't have to drain the whole system to replace either.
Bypass will be retained, but likely necked way down to the 1/2"-5/8" range. Better clearance and more flexibility without sacrificing warm-up.
Lower hose will be changed to a GT hose.
Generic surge tank w/cap will be mounted wherever I find the space (plenty high of course).
Surge tank and bypass will be Y-ed into the lower GT hose.
Vent lines, one from the radiator and one from the crossover plug will go into the surge tank. That should make deaeration much much easier.

Overall that should clean up the engine bay for around $100, all the while retaining and/or improving performance.

 

[BMR Tech]

I run a stat housing relocated to the upper hose, with a NAPA 160 Super Stat (1) 1/8" drilled hole.

For the lower radiator hose/system - I run a modified Mach 1 block adapter (oil cooler is deleted) and a modified 99-04 GT Lower Rad. Hose.

On the stat housing - I tapped in a pre-stat bypass.....which has assisted in getting the car up to temp quicker, as well as maintaining very consistent coolant temps.

I also utilize the OEM Expansion Tank.

I have been running the stat in the upper hose on all of my 4V cars, for quite some time. I have never experienced a negative issue - even when substantially decreasing hose size.

My current combo is my favorite so far. It basically stays at 162-172 degrees based upon the ambient temp and cruising speeds. Of course, fan settings will play a large role in maintaining consistent temps, especially in southern states which can get pretty hot and muggy.

My car has over 115K miles. I run 21 psi and also spray a 75 shot of nitrous to boot. The cooling system was the first thing I addressed when I bought this car with 112K miles on it.

Close up of the OEM Coolant crossover capped. And my homebrew bolt head welded to the bleeder for easier access.

One thing I have always liked about the way I run my cooling systems.....is that I have never, ever gotten air pockets....or had to "burp" anything. Just fill and go!

Good luck!

 

[BMR Tech]

Oh - and the reason I am running this combo is because I am simply testing the bypass set-up / sizes.....to dial int he cooling system.

I helped with the design of this kit:

Used it on my car for quite a while:

The only thing I wanted, better, from this kit - was the ability to get the car to warm up quicker....as well as maintain more consistent "non cruising" coolant temps.

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I run a stat housing relocated to the upper hose, with a NAPA 160 Super Stat (1) 1/8" drilled hole.

For the lower radiator hose/system - I run a modified Mach 1 block adapter (oil cooler is deleted) and a modified 99-04 GT Lower Rad. Hose.

On the stat housing - I tapped in a pre-stat bypass.....which has assisted in getting the car up to temp quicker, as well as maintaining very consistent coolant temps.

Just out of curiosity, where did you get that stat housing with a bypass? Or did you just weld on your own bypass?

 

[Modular Racing]

Also take a look at the MMR crossover delete kits, these can help with plumbing, we also have the kit available with the filler to delete the large factory reservoir. We also have the inline therrmostat housings in stock. They are also available with -16 instead of hose barbs for the radiator side.

MMR

We also have some routing diagrams for ideas below