Cooling system setup for new motor, need help please

JetmechF16

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Ok, so I need some advice on how to setup my cooling system for the new motor and blower. The car was previously twin turbo but I just got a new motor, built trans, and am switching to an F-1A-94. This is a street car so it needs to keep its cool for longer than 1320'.

Here are the list of cooling parts that I have:
-MMR crossover delete
-MMR inline t-stat housing with 180 stat (will be drilled)
-Stock Cobra radiator and fan
-GT water inlet with oil filter
-Stock Cobra water pump

That's it, I do not have the stock crossover or any other stock Cobra cooling system pieces.

What is my best route? Stick with the MMR setup with inline t-stat in upper hose? Which tank should I get and where should I plumb it into, the lower hose? Should I stick with the GT water inlet without oil "cooler" on a 99% street car or is there a better option? Stewart water pump over stocker?

Sorry for the questions, I've never given the cooling system much thought before now and not sure how to set it up for a car that will be driven on the street a lot. Thanks guys.
 

wckdvnm

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If you have the space get yourself a three row radiator, mark 8 fan blade and motor (getting harder to find). That's what I'm doing now after my radiator cracked on the terminator. I modded a mark 8 fan blade onto the stock motor (way more work than it would have been to just get the motor). I may start making the modified fans for the stock housing since there is a couple junkyard mark 8's around my area.


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DSG2003Mach1

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if the OP is keeping AC on the car, you arent going to fit a procharger with an 8rib kit, a mark 8 fan and a thicker radiator. I had to trim the shroud down on my Mark 8 fan to clear my procharger piping (Even after adjusting it all) and I have a stock radiator.

I was considering looking into a thicker radiator with custom brackets to try and push move it forward closer to the ac condenser but Im not sure what the consequences may be of getting rid of that air gap between the two

I also thinned down the coolant (more water) so its good to around 15-20 degrees before freezing (not a problem for me in FL) along with water wetter. A cooler thermostat and having the fans turn on earlier helps as well but these cars can struggle a little when its 90+, in traffic and running the AC
 

ctgreddy

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I'd use everything you've got. Does your crossover delete have the fill option? If so I'd put the Tstat in the bottom hose and then delete the tank. Then put a coolant overflow in the fender area. It really cleans things up. I have a similar setup to that only with a stock crossover, stock lower hose/Tstat. Just plugged the lines that ran to the tank and added a fill in the upper hose. Works great. 90* weather stop and go traffic it still stays very cool and has never once gotten over 195. Plus should give you more room for the blower and easier to change belts.
 

ctgreddy

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Pic of mine with no tanks.
 

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01yellercobra

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FWIW, I ran a stock fan, pump, radiator, oil cooler, and thermostat on my 01 with the F1A. I dropped the fan temps about 10 degrees from stock. Temps would hang around 200 degrees. Looking back I wish I had swapped to a 170 or 180 thermostat. But it kept that temp even driving to Vegas with the A/C on.

IMO the stock stuff is pretty capable. As DSG said, you're not going to get a bigger radiator in there with an F1A and 8 rib set up. Maybe you can have a custom unit made with larger tubes. I had a custom radiator made for my 1970. It was the same thickness as a 4 row, but used 5/8" tubes over 3/8". So technically it was a 3 row, but kept that engine in the 180's in Arizona summers.
 

JetmechF16

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Well I had a long reply typed up but my piece of shit tablet decided to crash. So cliff's notes it is:

-Keeping stock radiator and fan for sure due to clearance for F-1A-94 and HOB 8-rib setup
-No tank in fender, just took one out because it was impossible to tell the level and easy to overfill.
-I want to keep tstat in upper hose to control temp of coolant leaving motor.
-Stewart water pump will be purchased since I don't know where the one I have came from (car has been down for over 2 years).

-Where do I plumb in a tank with this setup? Lower radiator hose correct?
-I'm thinking about having a custom tstat housing made to bring back the bypass line since the car took forever to warm up with the drilled tstat before.
 

JetmechF16

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I think once I get the blower in I will see where I can mount the tstat housing to make sure it is the highest point in the system. If I have a custom one made I can have them put a fill cap on.
 

JetmechF16

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Anybody know the right size and number of holes to drill in tstat for best warmup in a street car? Just in case I decide to stick with the housing I have.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I have the On3 kit and I think I drilled one 1/8" hole and have had zero issues.

I still use the stock overflow tank
 

JetmechF16

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Wow just a single 1/8" hole? I thought there needed to be more flow past the tstat then that. I guess that brings up the question of how much needs to get by the tstat until it opens to prevent pressure issues? If you aren't noticing any issues then that must be enough. Thanks for the info!
 

DSG2003Mach1

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It was my understanding the hole was just to help burp the system but I've been wrong before
 

wckdvnm

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if the OP is keeping AC on the car, you arent going to fit a procharger with an 8rib kit, a mark 8 fan and a thicker radiator. I had to trim the shroud down on my Mark 8 fan to clear my procharger piping (Even after adjusting it all) and I have a stock radiator.

I was considering looking into a thicker radiator with custom brackets to try and push move it forward closer to the ac condenser but Im not sure what the consequences may be of getting rid of that air gap between the two

I also thinned down the coolant (more water) so its good to around 15-20 degrees before freezing (not a problem for me in FL) along with water wetter. A cooler thermostat and having the fans turn on earlier helps as well but these cars can struggle a little when its 90+, in traffic and running the AC

Well if you swap the mark 8 motor and blade into the stock fan housing it will work just fine; you just lose your dual speeds. Now you can work around it and get back the two speeds.
 

wckdvnm

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True but doesn't the shroud factor into the cfm the mark 8s pull?

I know it does some but the mark 8 motor spins at a higher speed and the blades of the mark 8 fan are a better design than stock. Me just putting the fan blade (modified for stock motor) on it pulled 50% more air than the six blade it comes with
 

MG0h3

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It was my understanding the hole was just to help burp the system but I've been wrong before
Correct. Drilling holes in it will actually slow down how long it takes to warm the car up, but probably marginally.

I can't remember the last stat I've seen that didn't have a hole in it from the manufacturer.
 

JetmechF16

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Ok guys, I guess the only question that remains is which block inlet do I use? I have a tubular k-member so the stock oil cooler is a no-go. Should I just reuse the modded GT inlet or is there a better option out there from someone? I'm fine with keeping the oil filter there and not relocating it.
 

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