Crank pulley not sitting flush.

Serfma

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Stupid question. Pulled aftermarket crank pulley off. Putting stock crank pulley back on. Only goes halfway on. It's sitting on the keyway, no doubt about it. Pulled it off and cleaned the snout + pulley. Same result. How can something so simple be so difficult? Am I missing something??? lol
 

Serfma

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Bolt + washer as I have many times in the past lol it's got enough threads to grip crank. Using ratchet to twist bolt, no impact. Once it starts to tighten up I stop. Heating crank pulley in hot water now to see if it'll slide on.
What are you using to push the pulley back on?
 

01yellercobra

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I usually put some anti-sieze on to help things slide together. You might just be hitting the point of things getting tight as they should be.
 

Serfma

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My pinky fits between the back of it and the timing cover. Definitely isn't on fully. Tried another oem pulley. This one i heated and it helped but didn't slide on enough that OEM bolt reaches any threads.
I usually put some anti-sieze on to help things slide together. You might just be hitting the point of things getting tight as they should be.
 

Serfma

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Going to get some all thread or the pulley installer so it grabs every single thread of the crank and use a wrench. I have a feeling it should press on with just a standard 19mm wrench and if it's too tight to rotate then I have a problem elsewhere, which I have no idea what it'd be lol
 

Tabres

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Pulled threads out of my crank once upon a time doing what you're doing with the bolt.

Borrow an install tool from any AutoZone, Advanced, Orielly's, etc.. They're free and work quite well.
 

Serfma

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Pulled threads out of my crank once upon a time doing what you're doing with the bolt.

Borrow an install tool from any AutoZone, Advanced, Orielly's, etc.. They're free and work quite well.
What'd you do to repair? Or do you mean the first couple of threads? I think only the first couple of mine are RIP.
 

Tabres

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What'd you do to repair? Or do you mean the first couple of threads? I think only the first couple of mine are RIP.

First several threads. I cleaned up what was remaining with a tap and had to purchase and modify a proper install tool to get mine on and off. Bolt still torques fine but it's always a pucker moment.

If/when the engine is ever apart again I'll have a timesert installed, or just stud the crank.
 

Serfma

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Ok so we're both in the same boat, hopefully on my end. Bolt threads on without crank and tightens fine. Re-tapped the threads on the bolt and the crank as well. Having to wait for the parts store to open to see if they have the tool, otherwise it's allthread redneck time.

What do you use for torque specs? Honestly in the past I've just snugged the bolt up and went about my day. I have not done the whole torque to X, back off, torque to X, then an extra 90 degrees tq spec. Which now I'm afraid to lol
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Ok so we're both in the same boat, hopefully on my end. Bolt threads on without crank and tightens fine. Re-tapped the threads on the bolt and the crank as well. Having to wait for the parts store to open to see if they have the tool, otherwise it's allthread redneck time.

What do you use for torque specs? Honestly in the past I've just snugged the bolt up and went about my day. I have not done the whole torque to X, back off, torque to X, then an extra 90 degrees tq spec. Which now I'm afraid to lol

under torqued can let the wheel for the crank shaft position sensor wiggle and wear out the keyway, been there done that. Luckily it didnt cause an issue. ARP bolt is reusable and a single torque spec, stock TTY bolt has the sequence + however many degrees if I recall correctly

I would like to know which tool is used to seat the balancer, I'm terrified to do it with a bolt again (I bought a longer, hardened bolt to start it with then would switch bolts but still).
 

Serfma

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Well that's a big oof. I'm going to order the crank bolt now.

For whatever reason, phone replies force me to respond above the quote but PC lets me do it below lol

M12x1.5 is the thread. You can get all thread with a nut + washer (bolt washer works) or get the install tool that is basically all thread with adapters at the end, with a hex head for a wrench. Otherwise I'd use two nuts to tighten against each other so I can thread the single piece of all thread in.

under torqued can let the wheel for the crank shaft position sensor wiggle and wear out the keyway, been there done that. Luckily it didnt cause an issue. ARP bolt is reusable and a single torque spec, stock TTY bolt has the sequence + however many degrees if I recall correctly

I would like to know which tool is used to seat the balancer, I'm terrified to do it with a bolt again (I bought a longer, hardened bolt to start it with then would switch bolts but still).
 

Tabres

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I would like to know which tool is used to seat the balancer, I'm terrified to do it with a bolt again (I bought a longer, hardened bolt to start it with then would switch bolts but still).

This is not the exact tool I have, but the design is the same.



Just as DSG2003Mach1, I also have an ARP bolt for my harmonic balancer. It torques to 100 ft lbs.
 

5.0 Hatch

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Something isn't right if you're having that much of an issue. I replaced my damper a few weeks ago and it went on very easily. Maybe the keyway is bad or the damper? Does the aftermarket one go on?
 

Serfma

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Aftermarket same thing. I tapped the pulley gently onto the crank. Took ages with a rubber mallet. OEM bolt will not tighten. Righty loosey. Different longer bolt with washers over top the OEM washer and torqued down. Ordered ARP crank bolt.
 

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