Definitely will be nice when you can report back! I saw another post on here also saying it was the short block, and another post saying it was NOT, lol. I would have gone that route without question if it were indeed the case.
Cylinder #8 fail... rebuild suggestions?
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Definitely will be nice when you can report back! I saw another post on here also saying it was the short block, and another post saying it was NOT, lol. I would have gone that route without question if it were indeed the case.
Ok, not trying to hijack your thread but I have some good info for those looking at gen 2 bottom ends. The H part number is available but they are not being produced and are not in the Ford catalog anymore. Basically, as I stated earlier what's in inventory is the last of them.
I was not able to get the order in today but tomorrow we will place it. We are being told once the order is placed it will be here in 2 days. I was quoted 1975 out the door. Granted, I am getting a hook up on this but you should be able to get these for around 2100 from any dealer, give them the part number that ends in H, it is a complete short block. My buddy has one in his garage with the tag on it and it's a complete bottom end including oil pan and oil pump.
If everything works out I'll have it here Friday or Monday
.
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I was not able to get the order in today but tomorrow we will place it. We are being told once the order is placed it will be here in 2 days. I was quoted 1975 out the door. Granted, I am getting a hook up on this but you should be able to get these for around 2100 from any dealer, give them the part number that ends in H, it is a complete short block. My buddy has one in his garage with the tag on it and it's a complete bottom end including oil pan and oil pump.
If everything works out I'll have it here Friday or Monday
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Have any of you guys pulled a coyote from the top, with headers? I'm asking because I'm debating whether to take to my shop and have him do it on his lift, or do it at home here. I don't have a lift in my garage, but I have a hoist. I know it's easier with a lift to take the whole assembly out the bottom on the K, but I can't do that in my garage. I will unbolt the trans, but I was really hoping to leave the Kooks LTH on there and be able to pull it out. I've searched all over and can't find anyone confirming it will come out with the long tubes bolted on. I did find 1 youtube vid of a couple guys doing it with different long tubes, and it seems the Kooks kinda wind "wider". Also I know the steering arm is an issue (I know it telescopes in a lil, but still threads right between the long tubes).
Some of that might be a sales pitch. Mahle's drop in forged gen 3 pistons are 2618. They wouldnt be "drop in" if machine work was needed to run them.
I pulled the hood on my car and lifted the motor out of the top.
With Kooks long tubes by any chance (or any long tubes)? MT82? I wonder if the MT82 can slide back far enough (without removing completely) so the motor can almost come straight up, without having to bring it forward more first?
No headers.... mine had turbo manifolds attached though. Trans is a 10r80 which is much wider than a MT82.
I pulled the radiator, but left the AC condenser in the car.
Wow, great pics! Thanks! Did you even have to disconnect the driveshaft then? Looks like the trans is still right in place there, so I guess you had enough room to come forward to get clear of it (without the radiator). The only damn thing is the steering shaft goes right through the Kooks long tubes 
. Did you have any difficulty with the steering shaft?
. Did you have any difficulty with the steering shaft?
Steering shaft is easy money.. mine had to be disconnected also, but no big deal. I did not have to pull the driveshaft.
I wonder how much further forward I'll need to go with the engine to clear my MT82 input shaft vs your auto? It would be really nice to leave the trans and DS all bolted up. Should be similar? Did you drop or loosen the K member at all?
Do you have access to a lift? It's easier and faster to drop the entire k member with engine and trans connected. If you don't have a lift there is plenty of room to get the engine in and out for both autos and manuals with the headers attached. Don't sweat the steering shaft, it's literally one bolt.
Search youtube for @PokemasterBS, he just swapped in a new engine and he shows how he dropped it in with the trans still in the car.
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Search youtube for @PokemasterBS, he just swapped in a new engine and he shows how he dropped it in with the trans still in the car.
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I don't have access to a lift. I've watched a couple videos of dropping it all out the bottom, and I'd LOVE to do that. Lol. I was seriously considering installing a max jax, as my garage has an 11' ceiling, but the floor drain is right smack where the one post has to go. 
.
I was wondering how far forward with the engine I have to go, to clear the mt82 input shaft of the pressure plate. Or just move the trans backwards some first. It looks like the K is in the way of the oil pan moving forward. Just visualizing and thinking...
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. I was wondering how far forward with the engine I have to go, to clear the mt82 input shaft of the pressure plate. Or just move the trans backwards some first. It looks like the K is in the way of the oil pan moving forward. Just visualizing and thinking...
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I recently saw a video of Shaun building 2 of his budget blocks. I'm guessing one of those will be yours!! Once you receive it and get it installed post up. I should have my gen 2 block installed within the next 2 months.
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Yes it was!! I will share pics for sure, you do the same! Did you get that gen2 shortblock yet?
I have everything but the trans unbolted and gutted from mine now. I dont want to tie up the hoist though with my shortblock from Shaun on the way! Oh, actually the AC compressor is still in there. Do you know if that has to come out to lift the motor out? Or, can it move enough outta the way?
I might also do the K member while everything is out, IDK. Funny how many of those "while you're in there" things have come up now, lol.
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I have everything but the trans unbolted and gutted from mine now. I dont want to tie up the hoist though with my shortblock from Shaun on the way! Oh, actually the AC compressor is still in there. Do you know if that has to come out to lift the motor out? Or, can it move enough outta the way?
I might also do the K member while everything is out, IDK. Funny how many of those "while you're in there" things have come up now, lol.
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My block from Ford came in 2 weeks ago. I picked it up for the price I said above, came out to 1975 out the door......
For your compressor just unbolt it and move it out of the way. Do not disconnect it unless you want to have to recharge the system.
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For your compressor just unbolt it and move it out of the way. Do not disconnect it unless you want to have to recharge the system.
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Okay, thanks... great to know it can be left connected and not have to discharge/recharge.
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Over the past few weeks, I removed my engine and completely tore it down. To my great surprise, I don't visually see anything wrong with #8, at least not catastrophic, anyway. The cylinder walls have no marks at all, the beam and wrist pin look normal and everything. I found zero evidence of any metal in the oil pan or anywhere else either!? Could I still have cracked rings but not any cylinder damage? Hmmm anyone want to buy a Gen 1 short block with unknown cylinder #8 issue for cheap?!! Seriously - I have the Gen 1 heads and timing components and everything for sale now that I have it all tore down. I'll have to post that stuff up on here and/or FB coyote classifieds.
You HAVE to run Gen 1 timing components / cams on your Gen 2 motor. The Gen 2 components wont work with the Gen 1 ECU.
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Oh no, this is all my old gen 1 motor, nothing to do with the new Gen 2 motor! Just trying to see what went wrong with my #8.
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Riddick - after re-reading my post and yours, I see now what you meant!! I am going to sell the gen 1 stuff from mine as I have a whole other set of gen 1 cams, timing comp. etc from the guy I purchased the gen 2 heads from (was an engine the Shaun @ AED setup). He had upgraded to L&M intake cams (gen 1!! and gen 1 exhaust cams), and all the gen 1 timing stuff came with it. So I essentially have 2 sets of gen 1 cams and timing components. I will basically be selling most of a gen 1 engine (minus the accessories I'm reusing). But it's the block with the #8 low compression. I'm going to pull #8 piston and see if it has a damaged top ring.
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