Darn 2nd gear lockout?

[Fastfish420]

I know I have read issues on this before.but when I'm on my car hard in first and go to hit 2nd gear it won't go..really annoying. I have read a shifter helps but does not take care of issue.I plan drag racing this car once a month and I see this becoming a issue.

What have you guys tried or done to help issue.I know not trying to jamb it in gear hard helps some.I owned a SRT8 Challenger with same trans and never had a issue with it, plus this Shelby shifter feels aton better than the SRT8.

 

[Devious_Snake]

It happened to me at the track (fast shifting) with the stock shifter, I am running the steeda tri ax now and thus far no issues.

 

[Ky GT500]

I know I have read issues on this before.but when I'm on my car hard in first and go to hit 2nd gear it won't go..really annoying. I have read a shifter helps but does not take care of issue.I plan drag racing this car once a month and I see this issue becoming a issue.

What have you guys tried or done to help issue.I know not trying to jamb it in gear hard helps some.I owned a SRT8 Challenger with same trans and never had a issue with it, plus this Shelby shifter feels aton better than the SRT8.

I must have been asleep when this issue has come up. And all this time I was thinking it was me speed shifting, trying to go from 1st to 2nd to quick. I have since slowed down my shifts and it seems to be working. I'm still using my stock shifter for now.

 

[Myfast70]

I've yet to have any issues with my stock shifter or missing shifts. I have had a Steeda in another Mustang and it was a great shifter!

 

[5.0 guy]

I've never heard of this, you get this problem from just shifting to quickly? What exactly causes this problem as I've never had it in mine.

 

[Lethalchem]

I've had it happen to me a few times. It's only happened with attempting the 1-2 shift at WOT above ~6500 rpm

 

[Cman01]

I had it happen to me once when at the track shifting from 1st to 2nd, the next run instead of pulling the shifter back on the 1-2 shift quick I put a bit of pressure towards the driver's side when still in first then shifting quickly to 2nd and had no problems getting into the next gear.

I tried it a few more times that way and didn't get the grind at all going into 2nd so that's what I do now and seems to work for me. Takes only a few minutes to get used to shifting this way and now for me it's second nature. You only need a little bit of pressure on the shifter while in 1st when you go for the shift to 2nd so no need to force the shifter hard over to that side. Still on the stock shifter not convinced yet that a different shifter will take care of this.

Tony

 

[GOTSVT?]

Same issues at the track.
How does a new shifter solve the problem

 

[Fastfish420]

I had it happen to me once when at the track shifting from 1st to 2nd, the next run instead of pulling the shifter back on the 1-2 shift quick I put a bit of pressure towards the driver's side when still in first then shifting quickly to 2nd and had no problems getting into the next gear.

I tried it a few more times that way and didn't get the grind at all going into 2nd so that's what I do now and seems to work for me. Takes only a few minutes to get used to shifting this way and now for me it's second nature. You only need a little bit of pressure on the shifter while in 1st when you go for the shift to 2nd so no need to force the shifter hard over to that side. Still on the stock shifter not convinced yet that a different shifter will take care of this.

Tony

Thx! I will have to try this and yes it was over 6500 rpm

 

[rwboring]

Thx! I will have to try this and yes it was over 6500 rpm

both times i went to the track i had it happen the FIRST run... and it happened once on the street... my solution at the track was to take the mentality of "slow down and just hit the shift" and never missed it again, I just think i was pushing it tooo fast... also I wasn't getting traction either so dropping it really hard just broke it loose even worse....

 

[Fastfish420]

Took car out today and left it under 6500 rpm and shifted fine.I'm heading to racetrack next Friday so that will be the test...

 

[dubbsfaris]

My brother had a '89 coupe 5.0 that we used to street race about 3 nights a week. A local county deputy was also a street racer in our circles, and taught him how to power shift.

He has broken shifter handles, missed countless gears, and even once destroyed his radio and bled all over his car.

I took a valuable lesson from his style. I prefer finesse and deliberate shifting to speed or force. If it costs me even .2 seconds on a 1/4 mile run, them so be it. I don't miss shifts ever, and I don't break shifters, radios or hands.

He still tries that crap in my Cars when I let him drive them. I guess he can't drop the old habit when he gets competitive, but it drives me nuts to hear him do it.

Bottom line is- I don't miss shifts because I don't out drive myself.

One little tip- try running through your gears at speed every open road you get, and just keep yourself at that shifting speed when racing. I notice at the Texas mile, those that are not missing gears sure dont seem to rush shifts.

But if the suggestion is that there is something wrong with the shifter, clutch or tranny, I haven't had any issues.

 

[5.0 guy]

My brother had a '89 coupe 5.0 that we used to street race about 3 nights a week. A local county deputy was also a street racer in our circles, and taught him how to power shift.

He has broken shifter handles, missed countless gears, and even once destroyed his radio and bled all over his car.

I took a valuable lesson from his style. I prefer finesse and deliberate shifting to speed or force. If it costs me even .2 seconds on a 1/4 mile run, them so be it. I don't miss shifts ever, and I don't break shifters, radios or hands.

He still tries that crap in my Cars when I let him drive them. I guess he can't drop the old habit when he gets competitive, but it drives me nuts to hear him do it.

Bottom line is- I don't miss shifts because I don't out drive myself.

One little tip- try running through your gears at speed every open road you get, and just keep yourself at that shifting speed when racing. I notice at the Texas mile, those that are not missing gears sure dont seem to rush shifts.

But if the suggestion is that there is something wrong with the shifter, clutch or tranny, I haven't had any issues.

Funny your story just reminded me that when I used to street race my 90 GT vert back in the early 90's I always turned the stereo off with my knuckles everytime I quick shifted into third, the good old days!

 

[Bad Company]

The problem is being caused by the fact the shifter is mounted in rubber bushings to both the transmission and the tunnel/body of the car. This was done to isolate harmonics from the transmission from entering the cabin of the car through the stick. As the engine twists on the motor mounts under hard acceleration, it is also twisting the shifter in its rubber mounts where it is mounted to the transmission, but the tunnel/body of the car isn't twisting on the rear mount of the shifter. So you are actually are twisting the shifter now. Twist the engine far enough in the chassis and the shifter doesn't move in the proper manner, you then miss second gear.

I experienced this once.

I bought the Barton Shifter and have never experienced it again. Barton uses poly-urethane bushing in their mounts. They also machine the shifter out of aluminum and delrin. It is a very good upgrade in my opinion. I did gain some harmonics in the cabin.

 

[GOTSVT?]

Add to winter list of mods

 

[Cman01]

The two arms in the stock shifter also flex and bend quite a bit. Saw the Barton one side by side with the stock one @ Carlisle this past June and the difference between the two are quite dramatic.

Barton is on my list but if what I'm doing right now works I'll hold off till later before getting the shifter.

 

[Tob]

As the engine twists on the motor mounts under hard acceleration, it is also twisting the shifter in its rubber mounts where it is mounted to the transmission, but the tunnel/body of the car isn't twisting on the rear mount of the shifter. So you are actually are twisting the shifter now. Twist the engine far enough in the chassis and the shifter doesn't move in the proper manner, you then miss second gear.

The shifter, in stock form, closely matches the rotation of the engine/transmission under various dynamic conditions. I've studied our beloved remote shifters quite a bit both in the car and out of the car. The rear of the shifter does rotate when asked to. Look at a stock shifter bushing and you'll see voids cast in just for this purpose, as well as a durometer that is fairly soft.

The two arms in the stock shifter also flex and bend quite a bit. Saw the Barton one side by side with the stock one @ Carlisle this past June and the difference between the two are quite dramatic.

Barton is on my list but if what I'm doing right now works I'll hold off till later before getting the shifter.

The arms really don't flex or bend. Aftermarket shifters may give you the impression that they don't flex by their sheer size. Any movement you can get out of the shifter while mounted in the car is primarily due to the bushings and not what you perceive as weak arms from the factory.

Here's a shot of a 2013 cooling package TR6060 and standard 2013 factory remote shifter.

As it sits, I can grab the tail of the shifter and get quite a bit of deflection at the front of the forks by moving it side to side. Fore/aft movement isn't very easy (to essentially try compress the rubber bushings in that plane) and the actuating rod (which runs from the bottom of the shifter pivot stub to the transmission) pivots as designed and doesn't bind.

With the shifter installed in the car, go ahead and grab it and try to move it. Not from in the cabin via the handle, but from underneath by grabbing the arms. Try hard. Depending on what type of bushing you have at the rear of the shifter, you'll get very little movement all. I noticed a slight difference between the poly bushing that Ford uses on their FRPP shifter versus the factory rubber bushing. Were you to make the rear bushing solid you'd get no rotation at all, not a good thing when the engine does torque over when under varying loads.

Could the factory bushings be a higher durometer? The bushings at the front forks could, absolutely. In fact a solid bushing at the front of the two arms may aid in increasing shifting actuation precision (at the expense of increased NVH). The rear bushing has to allow the shifter to rotate in concert with the engine/transmission. There is no reason for the body mount to try to win the battle and as such prevent the tail of the pivot baseplate from matching the engine /transmission as it tries to turn. Careful selection regarding stiffness at the rear juncture is rather important.

 

[Ryan12]

I know I have read issues on this before.but when I'm on my car hard in first and go to hit 2nd gear it won't go..really annoying. I have read a shifter helps but does not take care of issue.I plan drag racing this car once a month and I see this becoming a issue.

What have you guys tried or done to help issue.I know not trying to jamb it in gear hard helps some.I owned a SRT8 Challenger with same trans and never had a issue with it, plus this Shelby shifter feels aton better than the SRT8.

Hey buddy mine was horrible about that so I replaced it with the FRPP performance shifter and it still did it its actually part of fords way to avoid the mustang having the gas sipping tax, by adding a skip shift sensor in other words going from 1st to 4 is suppose to save gas and give you better MPGs. It's actually something a good tuner can turn off. I had my car tuned about 2 months ago I told him about it when I dropped the car off and he turned it off sense then no problems.

 

[Tob]

The GT500 Tremec TR6060 doesn't have the skip-shift feature.

 

[Devious_Snake]

The GT500 Tremec TR6060 doesn't have the skip-shift feature.

this.


also I do not want to imply that a shifter change is the "fix". However in stock form, to me personally, the extra play just didint allow me to crank shifts the way I want. The steeda tri-ax reduced throw about 30 percent, add the removal of the clutch assist spring with that and now I can hit quicker harder shifts when need be. The car still hits so damn hard on a 1-2 shift but no lockout. 2-3 and 3-4 from a roll I can powershift it. Every one here drives differently, I mostly shift smoothly and slowly when just driving around but I want to have the confidence I can crank off faster shifts when need be.