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Difficulty Getting Into Reverse in T56

Discussion in 'Driveline' started by carguy96, May 6, 2019.

  1. carguy96

    carguy96 Member Established Member

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    So recently, I have been finding myself really having to give the shifter a hard push forward to actually get into reverse. The shifter goes into the reverse slot when moving in the sideways direction, but can be difficult moving it forward into the gear. If I go into any forward gear first, then put it into reverse it is easier.
    Anyone have any idea of where I should start looking to maybe solve the issue? Trans in need of a rebuild?
     
  2. cidsamuth

    cidsamuth Active Member Established Member

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    There are a number of things that can cause this.

    But, on the TR3650, having a hard time getting the car into reverse is often the first sign of a clutch disengagement issue. I heard one performance shop apply that rule to all manual trans. Not that clutch disengagement was the only possible cause; only that the reverse issue is "often" a first sign.

    Take it for what it is worth.
     
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  3. carguy96

    carguy96 Member Established Member

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    I am going to be getting a new adjustable clutch cable as I feel like my stock may be stretched out.
     
  4. MG0h3

    MG0h3 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    Haven’t heard anything good about adj clutch cables. All day use oem.

    Do you have a firewall adjuster or still stock quadrant?

    Lift up on clutch pedal if stock.


    Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
     
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  5. carguy96

    carguy96 Member Established Member

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    I have a firewall adjuster. It’s already cranked out pretty darn far now after putting the new clutch in.
     
  6. P49Y-CY

    P49Y-CY selfie deaths ftw Established Member

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    Very easy to tell if it's a clutch engagement issue, or if it's the actual transmission:

    Turn ignition on - but don't start the car - and try to put it in reverse.

    If it goes in easily, it's a clutch issue (the clutch is not sufficiently disengaging).
     
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  7. MG0h3

    MG0h3 Well-Known Member Premium Member Established Member

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    You need to jack the car up a little or drive on a block and look at the TOB to PP relationship.

    You should have it out further than before with a new clutch


    Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
     
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  8. 03yllwguy

    03yllwguy Daily driven since 2003 Established Member

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    For me, this similar issue was resolved with a new reverse lockout solenoid which ran $70 I believe.

    Not saying that’s what it is, but if ONLY reverse and all other gears are having no issues, may be worth investigating.

    However, IF you installed a new clutch without a cable, you are on borrowed time. My cables last a few years only - to the point I keep a spare in the car at all times and always swap when clutches are replaced. Disengagement wouldn’t be isolated to R only so may consider the solenoid before going nuts.
     
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  9. carguy96

    carguy96 Member Established Member

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    So you’re saying I should get a new OEM clutch cable? I did not get a new cable. My friend said get an adjustable one, but I’ve also heard that the adjustable ones aren’t that good.
     
  10. 03yllwguy

    03yllwguy Daily driven since 2003 Established Member

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    I’m saying, from my own personal experience (own eyes inspecting my cables around clutch time or having them break) the $90 investment each time you upgrade your clutch should be made. Whether that is OEM or the likes of a Steeda is up to your own needs.

    I personally have a steeda which affords me adjustability that the FW adjuster is limited on for my application. I have no negative feedback on it other than the stock T56 inspection cover doesn’t fit over it. Had I gone OEM I would have limited adjustment. I have heard all sorts of negative stories on adjustable but my shop of choice has never had a Steeda fail, so far so good for my application.

    BUT as I said, IF it is only in reverse, I would highly consider troubleshooting the R lockout solenoid as these are known to fail and cause issues you are describing.
     
  11. Dave.O

    Dave.O Active Member Established Member

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    This
    Check electrical connections near shifter base to make solenoid didn't come loose

    Do simple checks before throwing parts at it

    Check for clutch pedal play, best indicator for clutch going out


    Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
     
  12. Dave.O

    Dave.O Active Member Established Member

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    This
    Check electrical connections near shifter base to make solenoid didn't come loose

    Do simple checks before throwing parts at it

    Check for clutch pedal play, best indicator for clutch going out


    Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
     
    03yllwguy likes this.
  13. hotcobra03

    hotcobra03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    When I had this issue I also thought clutch/cable

    After replacing I still had issues

    After a google search on cable. It’s suggested to oil cable before install.

    So I removed cable and lubed with wd40.


    Son of a bitch. Pedal was Honda easy and shifting is a breeze.
     

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