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Discussion in 'Driveline' started by FlaSeaDude, Apr 15, 2009.
Group buy here we come!
Yeah I finally got it fixed. The pressure plate being torqued down wrong is exactly why the fingers on it were uneven.(I guess its not really true how people say torque specs are only to keep you from breaking bolts) Basically only half the clutch was being used. I now love this clutch. It is a very good street clutch.
The thing that had me out with McLeod was I had had the tranny out the car I think 3 or 4 time after the install and could figure out what the problem was. So I asked McLeod to let me send the clutch back to them and have them look at it and fix it if something was wrong with it. Them were like take the tranny back out call us and we'll tell you how to fix it. At the time I was pretty convinced that it was a problem with the clutch itself and not with the install, and to me it seemed like they were convinced that it wasn't a problem with the clutch itself and it seemed kind of arrogent, but it turns out that they were right, and I guess I now have egg on my face.
I highly recommend this clutch, but when installing it follow the directions exactly as they say, and if you run into any problems call this # and ask for Lee who is McLeods Mustang expert.
McLeod's tech line.
I appreciate the info man, now I'm back to looking into their twin again... Damn it lol
So did a shop do the install or was it you and your buddies? How long has the clutch been in there? I'd like to get a review on the clutch once you put a few thousand miles on it. I still am up in the air on what I'm going to do. I want a twin but I don't want the hassle with the install, this will be my third clutch in this car and I refuse to pull the tranny anymore after this one goes in. I'm done spending money on clutches.
I had a shop do the install. Needless to say the guy who installed it wasn't there long after he did.(I don't think he was let go as a direct result to my car though) The owner Dave really know his stuff about these and all Muscle Cars. He actually owns a 600 whp Eaton/boost only 04 Cobra, and has installed quite a few TD clutches. I put about 4,500 miles on it before I got it figured out.
What are your mods?
I'm glad you got that straightened out man, I know the feeling of putting a clutch in and not being happy with it and it really sucks. I HATE this Zoom I have now. I think this McLeod is probably going to be the route I go. It's pretty nice on the street right? No chatter, no noise, etc
What I want is a clutch that you can basically let off the clutch pedal very slowly and get the car moving without giving it gas, and have ABOSLUTELY NO chatter or noise.
Its very streetable. Good manners and everything. The only chatter I get is ridding 4th below 35 mph. I can ride 5th better at 35 mph than I can 4th. :shrug:
What kind of coin to get it installed? :-D
and thanks for all the great info
The same as a regular clutch.
well I have put about 250 Miles on my new RXT. With my RST i was having similar problems as JROC. My impressions so far is that when this clutch is installed PROPERLY it is amazing! The car goes into every gear smoothly and the pedal feel is awesome. For a clutch that can take 1000+ Hp the streetability is unbelievable. The engagement is not on and off like a spec 3+ which is a big bonus for me because I hate that for everyday driving. I guess the next test is the track and to see how well it performs there.
my setup it is:
- RXT Street twin
- FRPP Aluminum flywheel
- 26 Spline upgrade
- TOB retainer
- McLeod clutch quadrant #1734
- UPR firewall adjuster
which is how much.,. I am still on my stocker :-D
I have a Fidanza 7.6 Twin Disk that I bought for my turbo install about 6 months ago and car has been down 5 of those months for the build.
It chattered pretty bad at first in first gear only, sometimes in reverse. It also rattles a bit when I accerlerate in a high gear at low rpms (generally till about 2.5k). In the 250 miles I have on it the rattle and chatter has got a lot better. It is actually easier to drive my car with the turbo than it was with the eaton.
It will take some getting used to. Eventurally you will learn the clutch and the chatter will be minimal and to a point where it is not that bother some. But oh brother is it bad on the drive home from the shop.
After 1st gear it is smooth as butter and much easier on the leg than the stock clutch. I hated it at first but it has got a lot better.........it is the nature of the beast. If you want to make huge amounts of torque and keep the 6 speed you are going to have to make some drivability sacrafices somewhere.
Still got some break in miles I need to put on it though.
I think I got the clutch and all the upgrades for 1500$ + ~600$ for install and fluids. I broke something on my shift fork so I had to pay an extra 120$.
Installed my RXT today. The directions seemed pretty easy. Torqued everything in a criss cross pattern to their specs. Also needed an adjustable pivot ball. I am taking her out tomorrow to see how it goes and do the final adjustments with the firewall adjuster.
This sounds a lot like my RAM setup. As originally posted, the clutch performs flawlessly. It's just that :cuss: floater late rattle that is driving me nuts...:mj:
It depends on how much your shop charges for labor,a nd how long they take. When I had mine installed I had several things done so I can't give you and exact figure. Probably $300+.
I just had an ACT TD installed about 600 miles ago. Love it. No chatter, no engagement problems...no issues period. I couldn't be happier with this set up!!! In addition, pedal effort is much softer than stock...very streetable during long commutes, cruises, etc.
Let me know how it work once you put a few hundred miles on it. How long did the install take you? Everything was pretty straight foreward for you as far as the install is concerned?
I had the car torn apart for my 2.2 install anyway. So time wise I just did some here and there. It was pretty strait forward. Didn't come with directions so I downloaded them. The clutch itself was pretty easy. Setting up the pivot ball took a couple of tries to get right. Other than that is seemed pretty easy.
Setting up the pivot ball.,.,, does that require removing trans again, or you will know it needs adjusting before reinstall of trans :shrug:
I knew right when I put the tranny in. The throw out bearing was engaging the clutch. I had to back the tranny out and turn the ball in a little bit. Then put the tranny back in and check it again.
Yes, you have to remove the tranny to access the pivot ball. With my RAM clutch, we had the tranny in-and-out of the car 4 or 5 times before we finally got the adjustment right. I believe we tried everything between 0.80" to 1.20" but I can't remember what we ended up with...:shrug: