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Engine rebuild

Discussion in 'SN-95 and New Edge Mustangs' started by brucesvt, Nov 4, 2018.

  1. brucesvt

    brucesvt Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I want to surprise my brother with a engine rebuild and possible super charger. He has a 03 gt with full bolt ons and 4.10s ... His car currently has 102k and its auto so I really want to swap that out for a 5spd
    What’s the most affordable route I can go? Want to get this done by April 2019


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  2. Revvv

    Revvv Infinity Poster Established Member

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    The most affordable route is a bone stock 4.6 with a Paxton. As for the trans, if you choose a TR3650, make sure it is built with good shift forks and synchros.

    The best way to get a solid answer is with a ballpark price of what you are willing to spend. You may be surprised with your answers and the build ideas.

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  3. brucesvt

    brucesvt Well-Known Member Established Member

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    $4k is my total budget


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  4. Revvv

    Revvv Infinity Poster Established Member

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    Is this for both your Cobra and the GT?

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  5. brucesvt

    brucesvt Well-Known Member Established Member

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  6. Sluggie24

    Sluggie24 Active Member Established Member

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    Unless you are planning on a used inexpensive supercharger kit I don't think $4k is enough to cover everything.

    Are you talking stock rebuild or putting forged parts in?

    Just the machine shop cost for preping and machining the block could get close to $1k depending on the condition of the block and what is done. Clean block, bore/hone cylinders, true mains, true decks, new oil and coolant plugs... Parts and assembly can add to that cost quickly.

    Items such as timing chain/guide sets, fasteners, bearings, rings, oil pump alone would be another $1k easily. Gaskets/fasteners for whole job and head rebuilds another $1k. (Depending on what heads need it could be more)Forged rods and pistons, about another $1k. Labor from an engine builder that knows what they are doing....maybe $500-1k depending on your location.

    The modular engines are not cheap at all to do right and if they aren't done right all at once you will just be spending more money down the road.

    It might actually be cheaper to just buy something like a MMR built shortblock when they have their black Friday sale this year. If I remember correctly their 600hp built short block was around $3k during last years sale and came with forged pistons and rods, an oil pump and a warantee. Add in gaskets, fasteners and head rebuilds and you would be around $4k.

    Not to spend your money but if they aren't already there that would also be the time to do cams and headers.

    Or you could just buy a supercharger kit for around $4k and drive the car like that until the engine actually requires replacement down the road.

    I'm assuming you would be doing all the work besides engine building yourself otherwise you will need to factor in labor costs for r&r engine/tear down or supercharger install which would add considerable cost.
     
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  7. jaxbusa

    jaxbusa Active Member Established Member

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    $4k might not even cover the supercharger, injectors, MAF, fuel pump and tune. If he has a perfectly running car I would just supercharge it. Oh, and you’re a good brother.


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  8. Three21

    Three21 Member Established Member

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    Most affordable build that covers the basics:

    Block prep (machine shop) -
    - Simple hone, no overbore unless you need to, of so then .020 over with torque plates
    - Check to make sure the deck is square
    - If the main bearings look to be in good shape, you may not need to align hone the mains. Especially with the stock iron block.

    Stock crank – micro polish if it has noticeable wear, but mine looked brand new after 126k hard miles.
    Rods and pistons - Forged units of your choosing with file-fit rings. A simple plasma-moly ring set will work for <12psi.
    Bearings - Clevite H series or King main and rod bearings
    Heads – if it is consuming oil it could need valve seals or guides. If not then just clean up the chambers and throw them back on with some new lash adjusters
    Timing components - Definitely replace the chains, guides and tensioners with Ford pieces

    Misc – ARP main studs, ARP side bolts, Ford TTY head bolts, MLS head gaskets, intake gaskets, timing cover gaskets, stock oil pan, new spark plugs
    Transmission - Leave the auto, put in a Bauman valve body recalibration kit to firm up the shifts and call it a day.
    Fuel – twin in tank pumps, 60lb injectors, MAF

    That will probably put you around $4k, but you will have a fresh, stout 600hp+ capable engine and fuel system ready for that blower or nitrous down the road.

    If it doesn’t need a rebuild you could just pick up a blower kit and slap it on there with some fuel upgrades. It will def be fun, but just know that at 100k+ miles it will start showing its age. Mine lasted about a month at 126k miles and 10psi of boost. It was a freak accident that forced me into a rebuild, but it does happen.

    This is definitely a sweet surprise!!
     
  9. Nick Aaron

    Nick Aaron New Member Established Member

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    Do you think it woulda lasted longer at say 8-9 psi?
     
  10. bigja01cobra

    bigja01cobra Active Member Established Member

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    I dropped $3500 at the machine shop in October. I had a fully forged stroker kit installed in 2007 has less than 25k miles on it when it went in. Due to lose PTW clearance the builder recommended new pistons. Motor came out because I had leaks through exhaust valves on 2 cylinders.

    They went through the heads cleaned checked decked for $750 they polished the crank mains only, turned rods, straightened the crank, honed block to 3.556 and had custom set on diamond pistons made, installed all new ARP hardware and line honed. Finally I had them assemble shortblock all for $2750.

    If I were you I would just supercharge the car now, and then begin piecing together a shortblock. Have the tune on the stock engine conservative and treat the car like you care and it can last. Good fuel and maintenance matters if it doesn't feel right, stop and fix the issue.
     
  11. Three21

    Three21 Member Established Member

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    In my case no. The piece of the block on the passenger side that holds the the pressed in pin that the chain guide pivots on broke. I've only heard of it happening to a handful of people with iron blocks. Anyways I made that my excuse for an avalanche of upgrades.
     
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