1. So how difficult is it to install
2. Is it worth it
3. How much is a fair price to pay
2. Is it worth it
3. How much is a fair price to pay
FAYS 2 WATTS LINK
- Thread starter MTSWAP"D
- Start date
I don't have a Fays 2 watts but do have a Cortex watts link, not exactly the same I know.
1. Had a shop install watts link and torque are at the same time.
2. I thought it was. Handling improved significantly and when tires break loose the car just goes straight and is very predictable. Had both WL and TA installed at the same time so I don't know how it would drive if I had just done the WL.
3. Shop charged me 10 hours labor to install WL/TA and get all the suspension adjusted/set. Shop rates can vary so that's why I stated the hours.
Hope this helps.
1. Had a shop install watts link and torque are at the same time.
2. I thought it was. Handling improved significantly and when tires break loose the car just goes straight and is very predictable. Had both WL and TA installed at the same time so I don't know how it would drive if I had just done the WL.
3. Shop charged me 10 hours labor to install WL/TA and get all the suspension adjusted/set. Shop rates can vary so that's why I stated the hours.
Hope this helps.
I have these pictures in my archive of the Fays2........
From Shelby.....
The Shelby engraved Alum. Fays2......
The Steel Powder Coated Fays2 in Red (for Convert.)......
From what I have read, it is not hard to install, it just takes some time to get properly adjusted.
It replaces the panhard bar and centers the axle through the articulation.
The price? It depends on what unit you buy.......The heavier Steel Powder Coat is less expensive than the Billet Alum., and then if you want the Fays2 under your Shelby to have "SHELBY" engraved on it instead of FAYS2, you will have to buy it from Shelby Performance Parts, which may tick the cost up a little more.
When comparing the two pictures above, the Red steel and the stack of Billet Alum., you will notice that the number of center adjustment holes are not the same. <<This will matter if your car is lowered. Some of the units do not have as many adjustment levels as others, this could be the difference in proper and improper height adjustment on these Watts Link assy's.
Also, there is limited space in this area..........is the car Track Pack optioned (diff. cooling lines/cover)? I believe the finned SVTPP cover fits with the Fays2, but I am not sure about the TP lines/fittings that attach to that cover?
R
Last edited:
Adjustment isn't that hard, but not as easy as the install. Just remember you want the arms to be the same length and they should be parallel to the axles when you're done. A level helps to get the adjustment right.
The watts link is going to come with a bunch of spacers for the arms. Use these to the extent that the O-rings in a bind at ride height. I replaced a lot of O-rings before I figured that out. I'm also running wide tires, and centering the rear end under the car is somewhat critical to me. I use a small ratchet strap trough one of the wheels and the other attached to the ladder frame to make small shifts in the body and position the axle brackets by loosening them and tightening them to accomplish the correct alignment.
FWIW, BMR's sway bar gives me better clearance while working on the car than the OEM sway bar. The coil-overs in this pic didn't work out, so I'm back to smooth faced double adjustable shocks. If I were doing it today, I'd take a close look at BMR's watts link.
The watts link is going to come with a bunch of spacers for the arms. Use these to the extent that the O-rings in a bind at ride height. I replaced a lot of O-rings before I figured that out. I'm also running wide tires, and centering the rear end under the car is somewhat critical to me. I use a small ratchet strap trough one of the wheels and the other attached to the ladder frame to make small shifts in the body and position the axle brackets by loosening them and tightening them to accomplish the correct alignment.
FWIW, BMR's sway bar gives me better clearance while working on the car than the OEM sway bar. The coil-overs in this pic didn't work out, so I'm back to smooth faced double adjustable shocks. If I were doing it today, I'd take a close look at BMR's watts link.
Last edited:
I had a friend install my Fays2 on my 2012 Boss. Even though I tracked the car pretty hard I wouldn't bother to do it again if given the chance. Just not enough gain for the hassle and noise.
Mine don't make any noise, but if they are not adjusted properly and the O-rings get pinched, they will eventually break and fall off. Then you're going to hear noise. Fays uses large rod ends at all pivot points and with the loads subjected to them should live a long time without needing replacement from wear. BMR's setup does offer a "street" version with poly bushings on one end of the pivot arms. The watts link takes a lot of the slide motion out of the rear end in turns where the suspension is impacted by road irregularities.
I spent a lot of money on my rear suspension. I started with the BMR lower and upper control arms and adjustable panhard bar which helped. But I still didn't feel very comfortable with the rear end. Tracking the car and coming off of turns I never knew how it was going to react to throttle input. Actually I noticed this the day I picked the car up new. Very vague feel in the rear ... hated it.
Fast forward to the Griggs Watt's link and torque arm. What a difference this made. The car just hooks coming off of turns and the rear is so much more controllable, especially since I ditched the Michelins MPSS and have Toyo R888s on the rear. The only kicker to these mods (Griggs) is that they are welded in. Not a bolt on.
The Fayes bolts to the axel tubes, and I have read, see post #7 above, where that can be a problem. I really hate to tell people how to spend their money. If it was me, I would get something more substantial than the Fayes. But that is just me. It might be ok for daily driving and what not.
Here is a link on how the Watt's link works. Notice how it is linear around the center, meaning it goes up and down in a straight line. Watt's linkage - Wikipedia
Here is another link with an AIX car and Griggs. God I love this video and the comments he makes in video.
Fast forward to the Griggs Watt's link and torque arm. What a difference this made. The car just hooks coming off of turns and the rear is so much more controllable, especially since I ditched the Michelins MPSS and have Toyo R888s on the rear. The only kicker to these mods (Griggs) is that they are welded in. Not a bolt on.
The Fayes bolts to the axel tubes, and I have read, see post #7 above, where that can be a problem. I really hate to tell people how to spend their money. If it was me, I would get something more substantial than the Fayes. But that is just me. It might be ok for daily driving and what not.
Here is a link on how the Watt's link works. Notice how it is linear around the center, meaning it goes up and down in a straight line. Watt's linkage - Wikipedia
Here is another link with an AIX car and Griggs. God I love this video and the comments he makes in video.
I have the BMR watts link and me and two friends installed it on jack stands in an afternoon. It’s not difficult, just a lot of bolts and adjustment. Nothing overly hard just need some patience.
Users who are viewing this thread
