First Teksid build.

Matshelby

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If this isn't allowed here, please delete it. So as the title states, I'm sourcing together parts and getting ready to pull this off in about 5 months. My goal for this car is mainly street driven with an 800 hp - 900 hp goal. I've done a good amount of reading and this is where I'm at currently in regards to purchasing parts. If you have input that might save me time or money, I'm all ears but I'm not trying to cut any corners.

Head Work
- Modular Head Shop Stage 4 port w/ titanium retainers (Don't know what version of heads I have)
- Todd Warren Cams
- Accufab Tensioners kit, secondary chains, cam spacers/washers
- GT Supercar followers & lash adjusters
- L&M cam gears (overkill?)
- ARP cam bolts

Bottom End
-
Mark VIII Std bore Teskid, may go .0010 over to be sure
- Accufab 9mm pivot pins, billet rear main seal & crank trigger wheel
- 98 Cobra sprocket
- King XP bearings
- Molnar PWR ADR rods
- Diamond MOD2k pistons w/ 2nd Napier rings
- MHS Crank stud mod
- New Manley std crank
- Shelby Mike Billet timing arms
- New FORD OEM primary chains & chain tensioners
- Cometic head gasket
- Boundary GT500 oil pump w/Boundary billet gears (bought)
- GT500 windage tray & pickup tube (bought)
- ARP 2k head studs, main studs & side bolts (bought)
- NGK BR7EF (bought)
- Innovators West harmonic balancer w/ HD hub (bought)

Tune
-
Kevin Dunn will be tuning the car for e85
 

RainyP71

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I have a ton of info I can post in here to help from years of gathering others people advice and hope it can help. Will share after work tomorrow hopefully. Hopefully some of the very knowledgeable guys on here will chime in, tons of knowledge here.

I'd go with comp cams. They are PROVEN the best.

If you are going street driven ditch the titanium retainers and save the money with tool steel. I've heard it is a marginal weight difference, and steel has much better long term wear properties than titanium.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

01yellercobra

AKA slo984now
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I have a ton of info I can post in here to help from years of gathering others people advice and hope it can help. Will share after work tomorrow hopefully. Hopefully some of the very knowledgeable guys on here will chime in, tons of knowledge here.

I'd go with comp cams. They are PROVEN the best.

If you are going street driven ditch the titanium retainers and save the money with tool steel. I've heard it is a marginal weight difference, and steel has much better long term wear properties than titanium.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Todd Warren is the 4.6 whisperer. He specs custom cams for your set up. And they're proven to work as well.

Will the GT500 windage tray be worth running? Wouldn't it be better to run something made for the shorter 4.6 stroke?

What power adder are you going with?
 

Matshelby

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Todd Warren is the 4.6 whisperer. He specs custom cams for your set up. And they're proven to work as well.

Will the GT500 windage tray be worth running? Wouldn't it be better to run something made for the shorter 4.6 stroke?

What power adder are you going with?


I currently have a Gen 3 2.65
 

Blkkbgt

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The land of commies and socialists!
So far my only concern here could be your head choice. I say that because YEARS ago a member on mod fords had his MHS ported 4v heads flow tested and found puddling issues.

Back then Nick was still the owner of MHS (R.I.P) and was hand porting cylinder heads. At that time he was the last person doing it as everyone else had moved on to cnc porting. If they have since changed to a cnc process then I wouldn't worry about it.

One other thing is to have the bores checked and see if you can get away with a simple clean up and then buy your pistons. 10 thousandths isn't much but the more meat in the cylinders the better.
 

SVT GI

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- With the GT500 windage tray make sure you got the main studs For without windage tray. Just the one longer stud for the pickup tube.

- The Ford GT/GT500 lash adjustEars are different for intake and exhaust. Can’t remember which ones are the same for 4.6 4V, just make sure you order 32 of the same. Or you can run the standard 4.6 4V ones with the GT/GT500 followers.

- if you’re going through with all the goodies for the timing components don’t forget to get the spacers and modify your primary tensioners.

- make sure you got the right trigger wheel for the lower sprocket as there are two different types. 96-98 Cobras had the thick wheel and newer ones used the thin one.
 

03' White Snake

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Double key or stud the crank snout. Make sure they are full cut key ways not stock woodruff keys. One thing I wish I did when building my motor.

ARP 2000 everything. Billit oil pump gears. Upgrade the tensioner dowels on the tekcid block too.
 

badcobra

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There is no need for gt500 followers and lash adjusters unless you are spinning 8500+ RPM. I would suggest just reusing your stock ones. I run stock Cobra followers and lash adjusters and make 1500+ whp. Your build looks good though btw, very solid parts selection.
 

Wayneo

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My teksid build is at l&m now being assembled. Very similar to yours
Custom diamond pistons by l&m (flat tops)
Molnar power adder rods
Studded crank
King bearings
Arp everything
Ported heads
13-14 Shelby pump with boundary gears
Wonder racing chain guides and pins
Wonder racing modified tensioner’s
Shelby windage tray
Tf crank gears
TW Cams
Upgraded springs
New lash adjusters

Cheaper to do the tf crank gears and file the keyways for the intake gears when degreeing the buying the l&m cam gears. Up to you. L&m is building my bottom end and resurfacing my heads. I’ll be doing the rest of the assembly.

arp cam bolts are overkill, I just went with 96-98 cobra cam bolts from Ford
 
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shurur

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Consult Todd Warren (na vt) on this..but I recall that...

There is some advantage in opening up the exhaust valve seats to 90% of the intake valves seat diameters. That is what really helps flow with the c heads.
 

shurur

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My teksid build is at l&m now being assembled. Very similar to yours
Custom diamond pistons by l&m (flat tops)
Molnar power adder rods
Studded crank
King bearings
Arp everything
Ported heads
13-14 Shelby pump with boundary gears
Wonder racing chain guides and pins
Wonder racing modified tensioner’s
Shelby windage tray
Tf crank gears
TW Cams
Upgraded springs
New lash adjusters

Cheaper to do the tf crank gears and file the keyways for the intake gears when degreeing the buying the l&m cam gears. Up to you. L&m is building my bottom end and resurfacing my heads. I’ll be doing the rest of the assembly.

arp cam bolts are overkill, I just went with 96-98 cobra cam bolts from Ford

Also heard that tack welding or dowelling the two gears together is a good idea.
 

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