Forged internals/ adding boost

Jonathan Post

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Hello!
I have a 2013 Gt Mustang and I would eventually like to safely add boost.
Its not my daily but I like to take it to the track and get on it sometimes. Before I add boost what would you recommend I enforce on the motor so nothing breaks? I dont have a lot of knowledge on this. I would like to keep the price as low as possible. Forged crank, valve springs, rods, pistons, bearings? I would like to have 1000hp capability's, but my goals are 750. I’m thinking of doing a centrifugal supercharger, perhaps a Vortech or Paxton with a boss 302 intake manifold. Could I ship my motor to you and help me achieve my goals reliably and safely? Perhaps keep things under 7,500$?
Thank you!
 

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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You just need a forged bottom end. If your current engine is in good shape you can have that done for around 5-7k. If you can pull the engine and just send the shortblock and then reassemble to a long block yourself you'll save a good amount. I had MPR in Florida do mine and had it shipped. Once you do go boost i would recommend going with a catless midpipe.

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Jonathan Post

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Thank you Shiftybusiness! So if I just do the bottom end I should be able to do 750 reliably? What’s your set up and how is it holding up with the power you have? What all needs done in the bottom end/ short block? I don’t think I can re assemble the long block, I would have a local shop do it.
Thank you!
 

GNBRETT

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U will definitely need better valve springs. PAC 1234. Stock or Boss 302 springs will float at around 15 lbs.

MPR is awesome but u will wait a while to get in. MMR is pretty quick if u pay the extra $300 for express then u get it within a few weeks. I have an MMR motor for 3 years now and just made a 1000 whp with it on 93 octane so id say its living and working flawlessly.

Plenty of places to buy cheap short blocks. If ur not going sleeves I wud just buy a good short block already built. Ur heads are good to like 1500 hp. A better intake will help at the higher boost levels.
 

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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The sleeved blocks are really for 1000whp plus and it's definitely more expensive. My setup is vmp gen2, 79mm pulley, id1000 injectors, boost a pump, 93 pump gas. At times i daily drive the car no problem. I also agree about the valve spings, i forgot i had that done also.

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SHIFTYBUSINESS

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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIzpfu2Y2v6gIVsCCtBh2XcwB-EAQYASABEgJicfD_BwE

So get these?
So is it cheaper to buy sleeves or just get an already built short block?

Did you buy your MMR motor from them or ship yours in? What are the price comparisons?

Thank you GNBRETT!!


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Curious whats your setup to make that power on 93? I would have to go e85, fuel system and smaller pulley.

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Jonathan Post

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So buy a new short block and get rid of the stock one? Or do they take my current block and put forged things in it?
Are those the right valve springs I should get?

Thank you!


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Jonathan Post

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Okay, no mines fine. So I send it to them, they build it up for me and get the springs through them. They send it back and I’m good. Throw a supercharger on and 750hp. Thanks so much! I’ll be calling MPR and MMR and talk to them about my options and pricing. Y’all helped me a ton!


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Riddick

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If 750 wheel is your goal I would highly consider a gen 2 coyote short block. These will hold 750 all day without even flinching. You can get one of these for about 2500 from your dealer including the core charge. Turn around and sell your stock block for 750-1000 and you will only have 1700 ish in your bottom end plus labor costs. Gen 2 short blocks are stout, for the price you can't beat it.

For added insurance throw in some gen 2 valve springs, TSS opg, TSS crank sprocket, and arp headstuds. This set up will last just as long as a forged short block for a fraction of the cost.



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