forged short-block, what did you guys do?
- Thread starter jeffs
- Start date
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Looks like a regular gen 2 man. Idk if that guy knows what hr was saying. Maybe he just meant forged rods & crank
Vic
Yup . It is, just a regular block gen 2. As i was expecting, someone confused everyone.
But the red label label did say: Ford Racing-Track pack block.
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What was the Ford part number?
I posted it above taken from a crate box.
I’ll look at the red label again where it said ford racing track pack.
Guys: Is it worth adding LTH to the car?
What power gains should I expect over just my lethal O/R H-pipe at the same boost level?
I was making 675/590 with my paxton on 10 psi.
Will I hit 700 with adding LTH at the same psi?
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I picked up 40hp switching from o/r h pipe to LTH. That's with a vortech and on 93/torco
Ohh that’s pretty good!
So I should pick up similar numbers than! Thats great to hear that its 30+ whp and not like 10.
You said replace, but wouldn’t LTH’s mate to a o/r h pipe?
I’m running lethal h-pipe.
Also, has anyone ever had their injectors cleaned and serviced? I have ID1000 from when i bought and installed them back in 2012.
Been running E85 since 2015 and I guess it would be a wise idea to have them cleaned and flow matched.
Searched online and ID charges $25 per
injector, which sounds steep kind of.
Any other reputable shop/brand to look at for cleaning, servicing of injectors?
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Are you replacing your block to up the boost, or just because of a bad short block? How much boost is your tuner gonna advice you to safely turn it up?
Vic
Vic
I did the kooks setup, with their o/r h pipe. I had a lethal h pipe also, I guess you could rig something up
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Well we will see. They also sell some kind of connecting cross over or something like that for $120 or $130.
But, heads got just done.
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But, heads got just done.
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So from anyone's experience what's the most cost effective if let's say you want about 750rwhp longterm? I'm thinking an aluminator shortblock or built bottom end using the existing block. A gen 2 should hold but dont know how long before piston ring land failures occur. How much should it cost for a forged rotating assembly? Machining and everything.
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Thats why I went with a gen 2, only shooting for high 700s or low 800s & keeping it there long term. A rotating assembly would run you around 2k from mmr or someone of the like. Depending on shop on labor.
Vic
That's what I was thinking. Gen 2 seems to be a good deal for those kinds of power levels and is relatively easy on the wallet. An aluminator might give you more wiggle room but is also more expensive.
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If you were going to build a coyote bottom end from scratch I would plan on spending around 5k all said and done. This includes block, all components, and machine work. I would highly encourage you find a reputable machine shop. You can have the best parts in the world but if it's put together wrong it won't last.
With that said the gen 2 block is a good deal, you can basically get two for the price of one built bottom end. I think it will last awhile in the high 700 low 800 range. It's all in the tuning and how you drive.
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With that said the gen 2 block is a good deal, you can basically get two for the price of one built bottom end. I think it will last awhile in the high 700 low 800 range. It's all in the tuning and how you drive.
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Well itll be 98% on the street but may see a couple track passes. 5k isnt that bad for everything, that's right around aluminator, jpc built shortblocks etc.... might look into some local machine shops but I dont know who to trust at least in my area lol.
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there are advantages/disadvantages between the aluminator, gen2 shortblock, and a built shortblock.
aluminator has manley h-beams, and forged pistons. but ring gaps that are too tight for higher hp applications. (at least the 11:1 comp one does)
gen2 has powder forged rods (strong, but not as strong as good h-beams) and stock pistons. ring gaps are still stock which can create a problem at higher hp.
built shortblock usually will have good h-beams, aluminum pistons and correct ring gaps for your application. usually more expensive and or more down time (if you use your existing block)
ring gaps are important because if you start getting too high or cylinder temps, the rings expand. if the gap dissapears, it still has to go somewhere, binding up in the cylinder, which can break off the top of the piston.
It all really comes down to what your going to be doing with the car. AND the quality of tune... if your tune is spot on, you can get away with the tighter ring gaps. if its just a bit off at the higher power levels, your done.
In most cases, a gen2 is going to cover what people want, but if you start getting greedy, you will regret it. If your like me, and its never enough... then do yourself a favor and do a built shortblock, maybe even toss in some darton sleeves and I beams for when you really want to turn it up, especially if you have a turbo(s).
aluminator has manley h-beams, and forged pistons. but ring gaps that are too tight for higher hp applications. (at least the 11:1 comp one does)
gen2 has powder forged rods (strong, but not as strong as good h-beams) and stock pistons. ring gaps are still stock which can create a problem at higher hp.
built shortblock usually will have good h-beams, aluminum pistons and correct ring gaps for your application. usually more expensive and or more down time (if you use your existing block)
ring gaps are important because if you start getting too high or cylinder temps, the rings expand. if the gap dissapears, it still has to go somewhere, binding up in the cylinder, which can break off the top of the piston.
It all really comes down to what your going to be doing with the car. AND the quality of tune... if your tune is spot on, you can get away with the tighter ring gaps. if its just a bit off at the higher power levels, your done.
In most cases, a gen2 is going to cover what people want, but if you start getting greedy, you will regret it. If your like me, and its never enough... then do yourself a favor and do a built shortblock, maybe even toss in some darton sleeves and I beams for when you really want to turn it up, especially if you have a turbo(s).
Same heads. No porting at this time.
Family Owned, Fine Tuned
This is who i used the last time I had my injectors done and I literally just sent them a set of ID 1300's this morning. They charge $15 per injector and typically have a 1-2 day turn around.
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