Fuel Rail Fitting under Whipple inlet

[mdoan]

I recently installed a Gen 2 Whipple 2.9L with fore rails using a rear fuel line crossover from the driver side rail (rear) to the front of the passenger side rail.

Unfortunately I think the driver rear rail-to-hose fuel fitting may have a slight leak...

Per the install instructions, the blower is sealed to the manifold using RTV in addition to the standard gasket. Not to mention the EGR portion of install was a nightmare (at least for me) so the blower is not coming off.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how in the world I’m going to get to that fitting to tighten it up? Pretty desperate here.

 

[mdoan]

Double post

 

[mdoan]

Here’s a shot looking down the length of the fuel rail under the SC inlet...

 

[scotsam]

I have aftermarket rails on mine with a gen2 whipple. a was able to remove the rails by horseshoeing them around the back of the super charger and taking the line off the passenger side and then pull the driver side rail with the line attached. not fun but beats removing the super charger and buying another gasket.

 

[Catmonkey]

It's too late now, but it's always a good idea to energize the fuel pump and get gas up to the injectors before you mount the head unit for this reason. Perhaps you can get to the fitting if you get the vacuum lines and other obstacles out of the way. If that's no possible, the head unit has to come off.

 

[69b302]

IIRC the kit should have a shorter bolt for the rear of the driver side fuel rail. If you used a shorter bolt, or cut down one of yours to be able to remove the rear bolt, without hitting the blower, the rail can be removed independent of the blower. If you did not use a shorter bolt, on the rear of the fuel rail, you will need to remove the blower to get access. I run full return fuel system with a 2.9, and it is tricky to get the driver side fuel rail out, but it can be done.

 

[mdoan]

IIRC the kit should have a shorter bolt for the rear of the driver side fuel rail. If you used a shorter bolt, or cut down one of yours to be able to remove the rear bolt, without hitting the blower, the rail can be removed independent of the blower. If you did not use a shorter bolt, on the rear of the fuel rail, you will need to remove the blower to get access. I run full return fuel system with a 2.9, and it is tricky to get the driver side fuel rail out, but it can be done.

Yes the bolt should be shorter, you’re correct. But honestly, this installation has so many other massive issues I wouldn’t mind the fuel rail bolt length by itself. Like placing a manifold bolt where even stretch Armstrong would be pissed, or incorporating a manifold sealing issue into the base plate design and then handing your customers a tube of RTV instead of the proper gasket you would expect at this price point (retail).

Regardless, I managed to get the fitting off today without removing the blower. But, as in virtually every other step of this install, I had to beat the sh*t out of my car to do it. I really hope I didn’t crush the rear ID1050x.

 

[mdoan]

So I managed to dent the shroud around the injector port getting the fuel rail off. Does anyone know if this injector is ruined?

 

[mdoan]

Never mind, sent a pic to my tuner and he said he can fix it no problem. Dented the pintle cap which is there to protect the pintle, so it did its job...