Full Tilt Boogie Racing Install and some goodies

FiveOhJoe

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Very nice. yeah it takes a while to swap out all the bushings. It's tiring.

I have about 4000 miles on my kit so far and it's performing great. Pulls dead straight. Bes bang for the buck mod. Sad a lot of people don't try it before swapping to IRS. There's an E85 Whipple 2.3 guy with a FTBR IRS cutting 1.5x's running a 10.4. IRS has serious potential

Here is my FTBR install thread: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/907182-irs-overhaul-wtih-ftbr-kit.html
 

TRBO VNM

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I would recommend a 1.5" wire wheel or even 1" if you can't find 1.5". It makes it easier and doesn't put as much strain on the drill because the cups are just under 2".

I misplaced part of my tool to remove the subframe bushings, so I ended up drilling around the crush sleeve to remove it and used a flat head/hammer to remove most of the remaining bushing and then used the wire wheel. This was by far the fastest I have ever had all the subframe bushings out. So that is my new process.
 

ac427cobra

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Very nice. yeah it takes a while to swap out all the bushings. It's tiring.

We like to warn people that this job is a pretty labor intensive undertalking. I have seen several people post here on SVTP that it was actually fun! That might be a stretch for a lot of people but I'm glad they had fun doing the job. The nice thing about doing the job is you will gain a new understanding and appreciation for your rear suspension! :-D

I would recommend a 1.5" wire wheel or even 1" if you can't find 1.5". It makes it easier and doesn't put as much strain on the drill because the cups are just under 2".

I misplaced part of my tool to remove the subframe bushings, so I ended up drilling around the crush sleeve to remove it and used a flat head/hammer to remove most of the remaining bushing and then used the wire wheel. This was by far the fastest I have ever had all the subframe bushings out. So that is my new process.

Jason:

Have you ever tried heating the subframe eye around the bushing with a torch? It really does not take a lot of heat. We've had excellent results removing them that way. The vulcanizing breaks quite easily using that method.
 

ac427cobra

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You can trim down a 2" wheel by running it on concrete for a few minutes. That's what I did. Brought it down to 1.5" probably.

I like using the 2" wire wheel but you need to use a good powerful 1/2" drive electric drill. I use a Milwaukee Magnum drill. It is under significant stress when doing the job but the inside of that sleeve will be clean as a whistle when you're done. After doing a couple of subframes the O.D. on the wire wheel does wear down a bit.
 

CtSvt

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It will be a while before its on the road plus im in ct and theres alot of snow and crap on the road , plus i still need to polish the exhaust and do a few other odds and ends , i took a break for a few days , my sore arms started to affect my work at my job .
 

TRBO VNM

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You can trim down a 2" wheel by running it on concrete for a few minutes. That's what I did. Brought it down to 1.5" probably.

If you can only find the 2" then I understand that, but why bother if you are at the store buying them, just buy the next size smaller. My shop floor gets enough abuse.

We like to warn people that this job is a pretty labor intensive undertalking. I have seen several people post here on SVTP that it was actually fun! That might be a stretch for a lot of people but I'm glad they had fun doing the job. The nice thing about doing the job is you will gain a new understanding and appreciation for your rear suspension! :-D

Jason:

Have you ever tried heating the subframe eye around the bushing with a torch? It really does not take a lot of heat. We've had excellent results removing them that way. The vulcanizing breaks quite easily using that method.

I have tried that, but still eventually have issues with the threaded rods. They only get so many uses out of them and still, took longer than what I did this go around. Heck, I just had to buy some new hardware for the upper arm bushing tool removal. The buts and bolts only last so long. I think total it took me 1.5hrs to remove every bushing this time. It usually takes a lot longer because of issues with the subframe bushing tool.

the other thing I do is spray some pb blaster or liquid wrench on the bushings as well.
 
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Bingo13

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I don't doubt any of that whatsoever ^ I just think poly deserves some credit. Im still in the research phase for the IRS, any poly critiques on your site I can read up on? Or any customers that switched from poly to delrin I can talk with?

I will attest to the effectiveness of the full FTBR IRS kit if you need a customer to speak with on this subject. As for poly, did that whole round back in late 2002/2003 with my first car and was replacing the poly bushings every 2 to 3 months, especially the differential mount bushings as they would melt. The subframe bushings would wallow out.

Polly deserves no credit in the major mount points on this car. Of course I was doing several HPDE events at the time, but the factory rubber was actually better on track from a safety viewpoint.
 

CtSvt

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Just got done for today , the halfshafts are in , fluids filled , the irs is loosely mounted for now . catching the new 9/16 front subframe bolts and this was by far the hardest part for me personally only using just a floor jack was a pain , and yes I opened up the buckets using the tool , anyways check out my axles I used graphite wheel paint from duplicolor :rockon: time to call it a day once again :sleeping:

 
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Jefe

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Have you ever tried heating the subframe eye around the bushing with a torch? It really does not take a lot of heat. We've had excellent results removing them that way. The vulcanizing breaks quite easily using that method.
Did this on the front, made easy work getting them out. Just had to watch out for the 10 year old rubber water squirting you in the eye when drilling through them
 

03 Indy Cobra

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Just got done for today , the halfshafts are in , fluids filled , the irs is loosely mounted for now . catching the new 9/16 front subframe bolts and this was by far the hardest part for me personally only using just a floor jack was a pain , and yes I opened up the buckets using the tool , anyways check out my axles I used graphite wheel paint from duplicolor :rockon: time to call it a day once again :sleeping:


Wow, those half shafts look great. Nice job.:beer: What kind of prep did you do on them before you painted them?
 

CtSvt

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Wow, those half shafts look great. Nice job.:beer: What kind of prep did you do on them before you painted them?

thank you ! I hit them with some 400 grit and then some steel wool and wiped them down with brake cleaner , taped up the tone wheel and the cv boots and hit them with a 2 light coats and a 3rd medium coat . they came out good too bad you cant really see them tho .
 

FiveOhJoe

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I bought two brand new axles when I did my IRS and I intended on painting them but I got lazy. Wish I did. Both of my $380 axles look like crap now.

You should paint the two parts between the boot and the tone ring and between the other boot and the output spline. They rust up too
 

jblood37

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CtSvt, did you have fluid come out of the diff when you pulled the halfshafts? Little off topic I know. Thanks. Everything is looking good!
 

N20JUNKY

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I'm pretty sure if you fill the FRPP cover up to the port then it'll be over full and push out of the vent. Just something I have read, did my FRPP cover yesterday and filled it up with 1.5qts
 

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