Gimmy all you little new motor break in tips...

[HalfTime]

I've got a built motor going in, and I'd like everybodys little tips hints and secrets on breaking in a new motor. I've got my own way that was passed on to me from my father, but I'd like everyone elses ideas as well.

I'm hoping to learn something new, good or bad. I love being more informed about anything that I can.

Thanks guys! :beer:

 

[Derek@Amazon]

congrats on going built lucas! rick rick a call.. i did what he told me to when i got mine and shes running great now

 

[HalfTime]

Oh, well thanks alot! But I should let you know that I am going built, but not the Lightning. It's actually for my SVTF, lol. But the tunner crowed is, well, I just don't see eye to eye with them on most subjects, and a power plant is a power plant. My plan with the Lightning is about 3 years before I go built. Money is always an issue, and the SVTF motor blew out first. So it's going built first.

 

[Derek@Amazon]

i know how it is man! i wish mine would sell

 

[FordFanStan]

Many different people have different ways. Some builder say break in 'em hard and some say easy.

For 98% of our customers, we have them break them in as easily as possible (stay out of boost, constantly varying rpm/speed) for the first 1000-1500 miles. No synthetic fluids for the first 5000 miles. Oil changes at the 100, (500 if you choose), 1000, and 3000 mark, and then every 3000 from there on.

Hope that helps some. FFS

 

[HalfTime]

I've always been a fan of break'em in how you're gonna drive'em. I've always been told that helps the rings seal better. Oil change after 20 miles (check for leaks and tourqe and other what nots.), 300, 1500, 3000. Constantly varying RPMs, then full synthetic. That's about it. Anyone have prove eitherway? What works, what don't?

 

[Slider]

Many different people have different ways. Some builder say break in 'em hard and some say easy.

For 98% of our customers, we have them break them in as easily as possible (stay out of boost, constantly varying rpm/speed) for the first 1000-1500 miles. No synthetic fluids for the first 5000 miles. Oil changes at the 100, (500 if you choose), 1000, and 3000 mark, and then every 3000 from there on.

Hope that helps some. FFS

This is what my family and I have done with every new vehicle we have had and it has worked out for us. No problems with our engines ever.

 

[FordFanStan]

I've always been a fan of break'em in how you're gonna drive'em. I've always been told that helps the rings seal better. Oil change after 20 miles (check for leaks and tourqe and other what nots.), 300, 1500, 3000. Constantly varying RPMs, then full synthetic. That's about it. Anyone have prove eitherway? What works, what don't?

The full synthetic depends on what parts were used, clearances, methods of building, etc.

For instance, the clearances on our trucks, the valve seals, rings, etc. are all specifically designed and built to use a Semi-Syn, so that is what I use after my break-in is over.

As far as 20 miles and changing the oil, that is more so for the old school pushrod v8's with a single hydraulic cam and lifters. After the initial start-up and run-in you need to swap the oil, and for those cams and lifters and what not, it is good to use a diesel oil most of the time. That is how I broke in some other engines and they held up fine.

I also always prime the oil system, on puchrods I will use either a oil pump priming tool or an old used oil pump drive, on the newer trucks you can just depress the accelerator all the way and crank. FFS

 

[Finaltheorem47]

break em in hard, you want the rings to seal, no pussy driving, then you wont get a nice seal and lose power + life on the engine. Use mineral oil for 5k, then switch to synthetic. Oil change intervals like you suggested ^ with priming, you can just pull the plugs and crank it a few times. If it was assembled right, there is assembly lube already in it and it won't hurt the engine to turn it that little bit to get that oil pumping.

 

[lightninmike]

Low revs and a bit of boost. Also vac is very good, like coasting down hill type of thing

 

[HalfTime]

Really? Vac helps seat the rings? I'm sure it helps a bit, but to me it would seam that forcing the copmression, like under boost, would cause the rings to expand the best?

 

[Enileate]

Break in oil (high zinc content) for 100 miles. Everything gets cleaned and coated. Then race the sumbiatch. We really dont have any parts to break in. Most builders want a 1000 miles or more just to absorb the liability.

 

[WhiteBolt]

I've always been a fan of break'em in how you're gonna drive'em. I've always been told that helps the rings seal better. Oil change after 20 miles (check for leaks and tourqe and other what nots.), 300, 1500, 3000. Constantly varying RPMs, then full synthetic. That's about it. Anyone have prove eitherway? What works, what don't?

Sounds about right........

If your tune is good enough to allow it to be done safely, run engine in short bursts at moderate load (about 1\2 to 3\4 throttle) for the first hour or so of running time. Make sure to let engine cool down a while between bursts.
This helps the rings to seal properly so you won't wind up with an oil burner.
Heat is the danger in a new motor. Don't make it run too hot for any period of time.

 

[Stewart_H]

Really? Vac helps seat the rings? I'm sure it helps a bit, but to me it would seam that forcing the copmression, like under boost, would cause the rings to expand the best?

You need vacuum too, during the break-in period.

Read this article. Then read it again. The guy has many valid points, especially when it comes to modern metals, and backs up his assertions and conclusions with some pretty convincing examples.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Run it...run it aggressive, but not balls to the wall.

Stewart

 

[mc01svt]

just drive like you normally would and change the oil at 500miles. :bored:

All this other stuff is just superstitions and "old wives tales" with no scientific basis whatsoever. BTW, I'm a mechanical engineer and have been to several engine manufacturing facilities. Can't tell you how many times I've seen motors run at full load on the dyno straight off the assembly line with no "special" procedure. :sleeping: