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GT500 6R80 Swap how to.

Discussion in 'SVT Shelby GT500' started by sleek98, Nov 28, 2016.

  1. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Kansas City, MO
    I have been doing a lot of research ever since TVS Vert posted up his thread.

    He has answered quite a few of my questions along the way, as well as a few other members, Matt and Jacob have also helped a bunch. Also Chris from autonation has helped me track down a bunch of little stuff.

    Plan on updating this with my progress over the next couple of weeks. Waiting on the transmission to show up this week.

    Here is the parts list that I have come up with. In addition to this, you will need a return style fuel system. I went with a Fore system so I can run E85. You can modify the fuel hat for a return line and run your stock pumps, however I decided if I was going to mess with it might as well make it better.

    2016-11-28%2010_49_55-106APPLE_zps4gy2qrpd.PNG

    I bought the majority of my parts from Autonation. Reason being I wanted a Circle D converter as well as a 1 piece driveshaft and a new transmission cooler.
    I could have bought the swap kit from "The parts farm" but once I upgraded the driveshaft and the converter it was about the same cost as getting mostly new parts and getting a used transmission.

    Matt thinks we can update my ABS module since I am staying with the 11/12 style shifter and not going with the select a shift. However if I do have to order a new one it is part number CR3Z-2C219-C. Mine did end up needing a new abs sensor module, It didn't hold.

    I started by installing my entire Fore fuel system. Took me longer than it should have but I was just working on it a little at a time. Couple hours here and there. Once all the leaks were fixed and the wiring done its now humming right along.

    I will break up the work into the main areas in the next couple posts to help keep it straight.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2018
  2. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Kansas City, MO
    Interior items

    Removed the brake/clutch pedal assembly, dont forget to take off the clutch reservoir line. Pulling the blue pin is the "hardest" part. If you use a 12 point 11 mm socket it will push the tabs in and you can pop out the pin with a flat blade screw driver. The blue pin is one time use only, so I got a new one. I wasnt going to try to reuse it when it was 5 bucks for a new one.

    [​IMG]
    IMG_6987.JPG
    [​IMG]

    To get the brake light switch to work properly I had to slide the black tab on the end around to reset it.

    Next came wiring in the shifter itself. I used an 11/12 premium shifter.

    Here is the pin out for the 2011/2012 shifter:

    [​IMG] 2016-12-02 08_37_25-C0307-Transmission Shift Selector.png

    I used wires 1, 3, 4

    Pin 1 - I tied into the Black and Yellow ground off of the 12v acc in the center console.
    Pin 3 - I tied into pin #4 of the brake switch, it is a purple and white.
    Pin 4 - I tied into my boost box power which is ran to a add a circuit in fuse 37. That is a 12v switched power so the lights will be on all the time instead of just on when the lights are on.

    I plan on using the o/d cancel button (pin 5 and 6) as my line lock once I get it installed.

    Pinout of brake switch

    [​IMG] AEC22051-D039-41ED-A10B-F1C4DAD8D9AA_zpskeorjyrq.PNG

    Pinout of 12v power source in the center console

    [​IMG] IMG_6978.PNG

    Checked to make sure everything works. Shifter only comes out of park when the brake is pressed, the lights works on the PRND321 when the key is on so we are all good.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2018
  3. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Kansas City, MO
    Engine Bay Items

    I pulled the radiator out, wanted to put fresh fluid in anyways. Here is the picture of the trans cooler on the GT500 radiator. There is not a place for the trans cooler to mount, asked PBTH and they said they have to get creative to mount it there. Right now I have the lines bolted on the back side and the driver side is cable tied to the tab half way up. It doesnt move but I likely will mess with that later once it is up and running.

    [​IMG]

    Next was pulling the driveshaft and MGW shifter. I wish I would have pulled the driveshaft when I installed the shifter as there is so much more room. Got those out of the way as well as the starter, O2 sensors. Once you unhook the transmission sensors and the O2 sensors the majority of that harness is now off. Went ahead and pulled the rest of the harness off. it was a tight fit getting the positive cable out with my headers but I got it. Issue that I need to resolve, the 5.0 transmission harness does not come with the plug for the oil pressure switch. So that will need to be wired into connector C110 which is on the front of the passenger side shock tower.

    Here is the wiring diagram for the oil pressure circuit

    [​IMG]

    On the Shelby it runs from the switch to connector C110, which takes it from the transmission harness to the body harness, then into connector C146, which splices it from the body harness to the engine harness, which goes into connector C175E Pin 24 on the PCM, which is the same for the 3.7/5.0/5.4

    Pinout of C110

    [​IMG]

    Here is the body harness (male side) of C110
    [​IMG]

    Here is the 5.0 transmission side of the harness (female) Notice the missing Grey wire next to the yellow. Thats what needs to be added and ran to the oil pressure switch.

    [​IMG]

    Connector C146 pinout

    [​IMG]print


    I have ordered part number 3U2Z-14S411-MHA as the service pigtail kit from ford for the oil pressure sender connector so I dont have to cut my gt500 harness up. it was 23 bucks from Autonation.

    Can confirm wiring it into the grey wire works for the oil pressure gauge.

    new harness

    [​IMG]

    You need to ground out the trigger for the intercooler fans/pump

    On the body harness (bottom connector) coming off the pcm you need to find pin 51 which is green with a brown stripe. I tapped into that wire and grounded it out with the other ground that comes off the body harness.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I choose to get the auto brake reservoir. Remove the pin that goes through there and it pops right off. BTW the pin is threaded in.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2017
  4. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Kansas City, MO
    Trans tunnel items

    Since I am doing the swap in my garage I decided to lower the K member instead of jacking the front of the motor up. I have a BMR K member so I lowered it to the end of the bolts on the frame and took out the bolts on the rear. I let it rest in jack stands so the motor could tilt back when needed and the trans slid right out like butter.

    [​IMG]

    Next up is removing the pilot bearing out of the back of the crank. I used a 5/8 x 5" bolt and wrapped a couple layers of tape around it to make a snug fit. Stuffed it with play doh and it came out in about 30 seconds.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Got the flexplate in. I used the ARP flexplate bolts but you can use Ford bolts as well. The tq values are different between the two. I have attached both charts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Got the trans in, noticed the bell housing to engine bolts are different. The TR6060 are shorter. The bolts you need I believe are M10x1.5x80mm. No one locally to me had any in stock, and after talking with a rep at nuts and bolts no one will make that bolt with the correct head on it. the bolts needed are part number W714012-S439. Thanks Danny for giving me the part number for the bolts. Called the local dealer on Monday morning (7:30 am) and the bolts showed up Tuesday at 2pm.

    Old bolt vs new bolts
    [​IMG]

    Surprisingly the tq spec on them is not very high only 35 ft lbs. The Top two are the hardest to get tq to spec.

    [​IMG]


    Don't forget to index the torque converter if using an aftermarket one that uses bolts instead of the studs like the factory one. I got lucky that I was only off about an 1/8 of an inch and was able to spin it a touch through the starter hole in the trans.

    Getting the trans cooler lines are a pain in the ass to get in. It hugs the frame around the ac compressor. There is a bracket that I am guessing bolts to the motor mount bracket on the 5.0 but doesn't quite fit on the 5.4. I have a BMR k-member, not sure how it would squeeze in if you still have the stock k member.

    [​IMG]

    Also FYI you need the disconnect tool to get the lines disconnected so I would recomend not putting the lines in until your sure of your routing. I picked up the tool from oreillys for 10 bucks, they had it out on the shelf.

    I ran the trans harness along the passenger side and stuffed it up between the body and the trans, the 02 harness are stupid long for the driver side and barely any length for the passenger side. I ended up zip tieing the driver side harness to the cooler lines as it was long enough to run it around the pan rather than under the pan.

    Also would highly recommend running a tap through the drive shaft bolt threads on the rear end. There was so much gunk in there from the factory lock tight and the second round of lock tight I added when I put in the alum shaft for the 6060. Threads are M10 x 1.5. There was a pretty good pile of crap on the ground after cleaning all 6 out.

    Here are the tq values for the driveshaft
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016
  5. genesmob

    genesmob Active Member Established Member

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    Aug 25, 2011
    Location:
    Illinois
    I used a trucool 43000 gvwr
    Right in between the radiator and the ac radiator. Fit like factory and trans temp has never gone over 157 deg on a hot day. This is with 740whp thru an auto
     
  6. blckRadda

    blckRadda Member Established Member

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    Dec 4, 2011
    Location:
    Phila
    From what I have read the only thing really can bus on the gt500 is, SJB, ABS module audio unit and instrument cluster. For us pre 2005 cars which didn't have can bus at all (2v or 4v) is it possible for us to also switch over and use the coyote PCM and simply disable everything in the pcm that uses the can bus technology and still be able to use the 6r80, or do you think we are better of going with a controller. Everything I read on swapping in a 6r80 seems to be with the newer cars.
     
  7. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I am using a coyote ECU, but I am a 2012.

    However for a pre-2005 car you will need the power by the hour harness with an 11+ engine harness and have them turn off everything in the ecu.

    https://pbhperformance.com/shop/pbh-6r80-body-harness/

    I think Twinturbo93 or something along those lines is testing the US shift controller in his GT500 swapped fox so he might have a better answer for you.

    Do you have a part number and pictures of the mounting/lines?
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2016
  8. genesmob

    genesmob Active Member Established Member

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    Location:
    Illinois
    I dont. Its the 8x22? Do an internet search. It bolts to the
    botom tab of the radiator lines come out on each side of radiatpr
     
  9. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Thanks, updated for the wiring harness and pilot bearing.
     
  10. rotor_powerd

    rotor_powerd Well-Known Member Established Member

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    VA
    Following. I need to find a way to figure out if my Hellion kit will fit around a 6R80.
     
  11. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Updated for the work I have done over the past couple nights.

    I can measure the differences in the actual transmissions when I get home. My 6R is supposed to be dropped off today.
     
  12. 2011fiveliter

    2011fiveliter Active Member Established Member

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    Will this 6r80 swap be the same for a 2008 GT500 and where did you pick up your transmission. I hope I didn't miss it the post. Thanks
     
  13. 50stangpower

    50stangpower Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Re-Read the first post with all of the part numbers. Its the very first item.
     
  14. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    My trans is from LKQ of South Texas to be exact, I talked with Steve and he was good at getting everything setup for me. I searched for the trans on Car-part.com and looked at mileage vs cost vs distance. Ended up getting a 38K mile unit shipped from Texas to Kansas City cheaper than I could stop by on my way home to get a 68K unit. I paid 1,447 for it to my door. Local place wanted 1750ish after tax.

    I dont know 100% but I believe for the 07-10 you need to use an 11+ engine harness and have the PATS deleted. I am not sure how the body harness transfers over in comparison from the 2011+ and the 2007-2010. I only have the 2012 mustang in my alldata account.
     
  15. 2011fiveliter

    2011fiveliter Active Member Established Member

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    Thanks for the information.
     
  16. 2011fiveliter

    2011fiveliter Active Member Established Member

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    For some reason, my computer isn't picking up any images. So I can't see the parts list at this time....
     
  17. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Changed from Photobucket to image post. let me know if they work now.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2016
  18. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    The bell housing 4 inches back from the face is about 2 inches wider than the 6060 and the rest of the trans is about 1 1/2 inches wider. 6r80 is about 4 inches shorter
     
  19. 2011fiveliter

    2011fiveliter Active Member Established Member

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    The pics are working. Awesome build and thanks for sharing
     
  20. sleek98

    sleek98 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Few more items added over the weekend in the engine bay.
     

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