Has anyone installed Cobra R dampeners and springs?

Black2003Cobra

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And if so, did they help with the wheel hop? How much did they drop the car's height? Any other comments? I'm thinking of doing this to eliminate the last vestige of wheel hop that I have.

Thanks!
 

Bingo13

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I did before I went to a coil-over setup. The springs will drop the car about 1" all around. You will need the Cobra "R" shocks or another brand in the rear due to the spring rates. The stock front struts will be on the ragged edge due to dampening/rebound rates but they will work.

Wheel hop issues were slightly improved but still evident even with the mm/steeda bushings. I was running the 18" R wheel/tire setup which did not help and probably made it worse. I did run a 17" wheel/tire setup and the hop issue was improved over the 18" setup.

The "R" setup will help some and will improve your handling aspects with the right strut/shock combination.
 

Black2003Cobra

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Bingo - when you went to the coil overs, did that take care of it then? And did you keep the Cobra R rear shocks? (I know toofast went that route and says he has NO wheel hop.) Do you think that is the solution then?

Thanks!
 

Bingo13

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Originally posted by Black2003Cobra
Bingo - when you went to the coil overs, did that take care of it then? And did you keep the Cobra R rear shocks? (I know toofast went that route and says he has NO wheel hop.) Do you think that is the solution then?

Thanks!

I would say on average that with the "R" setup, bushings, kb steer kit, alignment, and the sticky 17" (V700) setup that wheel hop was about 90~95% cured depending upon temps. I would give the 18" setups I ran about a 85~90% cure rate.

I will say with the current coil-over setup and revalved "R" shocks along with the Nitto R/R2 setup that wheel hop is about 95~97% cured. The tires made a difference along with the coil-overs over the "R" spring setup.

I can still induce some wheel hop but for all practical purposes once the tires are warmed up the wheel hop is gone. The car will just squat and go. A few people around here can attest to that fact. ;-)

The "R" setup is a very good compromise if you do not do coil-overs and do not want to lower the car past the optimum heights for handling. However, the "R" shocks are a requirement or the HH anti-hop shocks. I never tried the QA1s that some people are running.
 

Bingo13

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As a side note- Install the MM urethane isolaters when you change the springs. They make a world of difference in ride quality and rebound rates compared to the rubber mush that Ford installs.
 

Black2003Cobra

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Originally posted by Bingo13
As a side note- Install the MM urethane isolaters when you change the springs. They make a world of difference in ride quality and rebound rates compared to the rubber mush that Ford installs.

You mean the spring isolators, I assume? Are they clunky at all? Yes, I prefer not to have to go to a coil over set up, so I'll try the Cobra R setup then. Did you have your current shocks revalved to the "R" specs then? (Sounds like that's what you did from what you wrote.) How much was that cost in comparison to new ones? Oh, three more questions. I'm assuming I'll need to change the struts, too, since obviously I'll be doing both the front and rear springs? Did you need caster/camber plates? What alignment specs should I use? Thanks for all the info, Bingo! :thumbsup:

Edit: BTW, any idea how the Cobra R springs compare to HR springs?
 
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Bingo13

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Originally posted by Black2003Cobra
You mean the spring isolators, I assume? Are they clunky at all? Yes, I prefer not to have to go to a coil over set up, so I'll try the Cobra R setup then. Did you have your current shocks revalved to the "R" specs then? (Sounds like that's what you did from what you wrote.) How much was that cost in comparison to new ones? Oh, three more questions. I'm assuming I'll need to change the struts, too, since obviously I'll be doing both the front and rear springs? Did you need caster/camber plates? What alignment specs should I use? Thanks for all the info, Bingo! :thumbsup:

Edit: BTW, any idea how the Cobra R springs compare to HR springs?

Yes, the spring isolaters from MM. They are not clunky in my opinion.

I had the "R" struts and shocks with the "R" springs. I sold the entire set. I bought new "R" shocks but had MM change the dampening a little before I installed them with the coil-overs. It ran an extra $45 for the new rates.

The stock struts will work but are on the edge. If you had the money I would go with the MM race spec bilsteins if you do not mind a slightly harsher ride on the street. There is not enough of a difference between the stock struts and the "R" version for the cost.

I would get the MM caster/camber plates. They are not required with the "R" setup but it will allow you to improve the alignment for street or track. If you have the money I would also do the four point cross member brace, aluminum steering rack bushings, endlinks, and sway bar bushings. If you plan on doing several track events then I would also change the lca bushings.


Alignment specs are dependent upon your driving style and purpose. Do you want street settings , autocross, or open track information? :D

Most of the spring packages are close to each other. I did not use the H&R but did use the Steeda Cobra Sport springs on the car. I do not care for the Super Sport springs as they lower the car too much along with others. They look great but at the track the car will not respond correctly.
 

Black2003Cobra

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Bingo,

The car is primarily driven on the street, and occasionally taken to the drag strip. I have thought about trying auto-x with it, but I wouldn't want to tune the suspension for that. And I'm too nervous about taking it to Watkins Glenn, or such. (As they say, if you can't afford to take a total loss, you can't afford it!)

Anyway, sounds like I could just do the Cobra R spring set and just the rear shocks then. I thought I might have to use the struts, too, just thinking there might be some imbalance of some sort front to back.

Dont think I'll do the Al bushings, et al. Seems like that would be the wrong way to go for drag racing?

I'm guessing the stock '03 alignment specs are what I should stick with then for the street?

Thanks mucho.
 

Bingo13

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Street Alignment-

My street and save the tires suggestion-

Front L R
caster 4.0 4.0
camber -1.25 -1.25
toe 1/32" 1/32"
total toe 1/16"

Rear
camber -1 -1
toe 1/16" 1/16"
total toe 1/8"

What I run on the street-

My set-up is
Front L R
caster 5 5
camber -1.8 -1.8
toe 1/16" 1/16"
total toe 1/8"

Rear
camber -1.25 -1.25
toe 1/16" 1/16"
total toe 1/8"

You could go a little more aggressive on the street settings. However, the front tires will wear a little quicker and the car might seem darty at times. Those settings are a good starting point. You want to do the alignment a week after the spring install. I would have it checked about a month later.
If you can get -1.25 on the rear camber I would do it as it helps the car to squat and go not to mention the rear will stay planted better in the corners. This one of the most effective ways at curing the wheel hop once you have made the other changes.

I would still do the four point k-member brace and the sway bar bushings even if you are drag racing.

Once you have driving time with the "R" setup you will probably want to change the front struts. The stock ones will be fine but you will find them under-dampened for the most part.

:thumbsup:
 

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