Head Gasket? Coolant in Exhaust

FSTBK65

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First of many posts here on SVT...
2003 Cobra engine.
Just bought the car.
Looked into overflow tank and it was fairly full at inspection, but car was running rough. Sometimes didn't want to idle and would shut off. Car got hot on the way home.
Last night I drained the radiator and got hardly any coolant out. I filled the cooling system with straight water using the 1/4" drive fill plug on the crossover pipe. I didnt fire the car up last night.

This morning I checked the level in the system through the same fill plug, and had to add 4 oz of water to get it full.
Fired the car up and now I have a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust pipes. When you slightly tap the throttle and release it there is
water pouring from the exhaust pipes and puddling in the driveway.
The exhaust does have a crossover, so both sides were puddling.
As soon as I saw this I shut the car off.

Does this sound like a blown head gasket, or worse?
What do I need to do / check?
I checked the oil and it appears to be fine.

The car car does have a coolant pump in the trunk along with the Intercooler Reservoir, but this system is still full. Level did not drop after running.

Thanks
 

evolve

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Do a compression/Leak Down test to see whats up. If you have more than a 15-20% difference (in your compression test) between any cylinders then you have an issue. Sounds like a HG.
 

Anabolic

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chances are alot of white smoke would indicate a head gasket leak.... aslong as you're not mistaking it for normal condensation because of the cold weather
 

FSTBK65

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Ran a compression test today.
I am not sure if Ford still numbers cylinders like the old small block Fords, but this is how I am going to assume they are numbered.

Here are the results:
Cyl 1 . 140
2 . 120
3 . 110
4 . 135

5. 145
6. 160
7. 155
8. 140

I rechecked cylinders 2 and 3, and got 115 and 110.

Does this look like a blown head gasket between cyls 2 and 3 to you guys?

Cyls 1-4 are on the passengers side. Can this head be removed without pulling the engine?

Thanks for the info.


Anabolic - That was my first thought, but it was literally leaving a puddle that was running down my driveway.
 

Blueline

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Looks like the gasket maybe compromised between those two cylinders. Your going to have to pull the motor to do the head(s).
 
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Sorry to hear. If the compression test was done correctly, she looks like she's been hurt bad. :(

I was curious...were you aware that the car had idling issues before you bought it or did these symptoms surface later on?
 
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FSTBK65

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I am thinking that I might as well do the Driver's side head too.

Is there a write-up on the best way to pull the engine and heads?

What brand of head gaskets should I use? I work part time at Advance Auto, so I could get a discount on Felpro. I think we also sell a performance Felpro. I may do a few mods to it down the road, but don't plan on doing anything big like using nitrous, or a KB.

I was aware that the car had some issues, and got a very good deal on it. I thought that the miss was possibly a coil. Hopefully fixing head gaskets will take care of it.
 
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You'll definitely know more once the heads are off. Your issue could be bigger than just replacing a head though.
 

Blueline

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If I was pulling the motor, I would honestly do both heads. I woud pull the heads, have them checked and cleaned up if needed. New guides etc... Then some new gaskets... Valve covers powder coated, longtubes, water pump, inner belt etc. With the motor out you can knock these out in a few hours, if not then fix the heads and get her back together.
 
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mach1033

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If I was pulling the motor, I would honestly do both heads. I woud pull the heads, have them checked and cleaned up if needed. New guides etc... Then some new gaskets... Valve covers powder coated, longtubes, water pump, inner belt etc. With the motor out you can knock these out in a few hours, if not then fix the heads and get her back together.

I would add a better set of pistons and rings as well. Get rid of that tight piston to wall clearance crap.
 

Blueline

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^ def. Al, if he is going to be pulling the motor and can swing it he should do pistons etc. If hes just going to do the repair at hand, I would at least address the heads while Im in there.
 

FSTBK65

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I am hopefully going to get started pulling the engine today. I am planning on pulling it from the top, since I do not have a lift. When I get the engine out I will pull the heads and look to see exactly what I have. The head bolts are torque to yield bolts, correct? Do I need to go back with ARP head bolts, or new stock ones?

What problems or clearance issues will I run into pulling the engine from the top?

Thanks again
 

FSTBK65

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Finished tearing down the engine yesterday.
Wound up dropping the K member, seemed a lot easier.

Pulled the heads and I believe I found where the head gasket failed.

Heads, block, crank, rods and pistons are all at the machine shop to pressure test the block and heads.

How many miles does it typically take to wear the coating off of the piston skirts? I have a few pistons that are missing some coating, one that is not showing much at all, and others that look fine. I took them to the shop with the block.

Any recommendations on what piston to use? This will not be an all-out race engine, but I want it to last. Also what rings and bearings do you guys recommend?
 

FSTBK65

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There was a spot between the layers of the gasket on cylinders 2 and 3. I thought I had a picture of it, but I do not. I took the gaskets to the machine shop. I can take a pic when I get the parts back.

I do have pictures of the engine removal though.
I will have to figure out how to post pics.
 

FSTBK65

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th_december2011066.jpg


See if this works...
 
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