Help novice

[BobL]

Purchased a 98 Mustang Cobra SVT OFF OF INTERNET. I had someone drive it and look over before I purchased. Engine runs rough at 60 mph or higher. This is my list of plans for the car right away. If I a missing something would appreciate guidance:

Drain and replace all fluids, to include engine, transmission, differential, brake, power steering, ect.

Tune up with better performance spark plugs and new wiring.

Install new gear in differential (3.73 or 4.10) if needed or any suggestions.

New wheels and tires, 245/45r/17. 9” front 10” rear. Tires Michelin

Check brakes, change out air filter.

No clue on what the intake is, but after 23 years of use, are new ones recommended?

What else could I do to make it a worthy Cobra any one would be proud of. Replacing two front seats, painting it Laser Red and clear coated.

Any other recommendation regarding work that should be checked or worked on?

Was thinking of lower with springs, but 1 1/2” does not seem equitable to the amount to do.

Thank you guys, your help will be appreciated, cannot wait to start, taking delivery Friday by transport. Total budgeted $6,000….

BobL

 

[SnakePitRacing]

That old a car, maybe think about the fuel filter. If you have the capability/know how on how to drop the gas tank, maybe the pump and the sock.

 

[BobL]

Thank you, you may be right, worth the effort, maybe never changed before..

‘’Thank you SnakePitRacing”

 

[shurur]

Tires and wheels,

shifter of choice,

gears and detroit truetrac,

stiflers subframe,

springs and strut/shocks and cc plates, lower swaybar link.

Front and rear struts/shock brace

Rear control arms and panhard bar..maybe other stuff...dunno.

Drive it.

NA HP mods can be found by searching the "b-head nasvt recipe."

Enjoy

 

[Adower]

Purchased a 98 Mustang Cobra SVT OFF OF INTERNET. I had someone drive it and look over before I purchased. Engine runs rough at 60 mph or higher. This is my list of plans for the car right away. If I a missing something would appreciate guidance:

Drain and replace all fluids, to include engine, transmission, differential, brake, power steering, ect.

Tune up with better performance spark plugs and new wiring.

Install new gear in differential (3.73 or 4.10) if needed or any suggestions.

New wheels and tires, 245/45r/17. 9” front 10” rear. Tires Michelin

Check brakes, change out air filter.

No clue on what the intake is, but after 23 years of use, are new ones recommended?

What else could I do to make it a worthy Cobra any one would be proud of. Replacing two front seats, painting it Laser Red and clear coated.

Any other recommendation regarding work that should be checked or worked on?

Was thinking of lower with springs, but 1 1/2” does not seem equitable to the amount to do.

Thank you guys, your help will be appreciated, cannot wait to start, taking delivery Friday by transport. Total budgeted $6,000….

BobL

I would concentrate on suspension first.

1/ Subframes
2/ Coil Overs + C/C Plates
3/ Gears: If staying N/A get at least 4.10's. If going FI, I like 3.55's.
4/ If you're planning on replacing seats I like Corbeau's

 

[BobL]

Adower, thank you for your response. I do have a few questions:

What do you mean by sub frame? Are you referring to checking the frame for rust or damage?

Coil over and CC plates are these tide to springs and struts or something else I should be looking at?

If staying N/A? going FI? I am not a street racer and it will be a daily driver with no more than 500 miles a month. I like competition but more of a “ if needed to it would not embarrass the Mustang family. I want drivable and yet very very healthy…

Regarding seat I am going with leather looking like original, but may have a cobra design stitched at the top….for the look….

Thank you so much for your advice, would you still recommend 3.55’s,gas mileage is not real important and will be using 93 octane….

Bob

 

[BobL]

Tires and wheels,

shifter of choice,

gears and detroit truetrac,

stiflers subframe,

springs and strut/shocks and cc plates, lower swaybar link.

Front and rear struts/shock brace

Rear control arms and panhard bar..maybe other stuff...dunno.

Drive it.

NA HP mods can be found by searching the "b-head nasvt recipe."

Enjoy

Wow, now that’s some advice. Someone else mentioned sub frame and I did not really understand. Could I refer to you with questions? It’s built for show and a daily driver of no more than 500 miles a month. Thank you, now I am going back through your recommendations and reread several times to make my self knowledgeable.

Again, thank you for your time and input, it’s quite a list…

Bob

 

[BobL]

Tires and wheels,

shifter of choice,

gears and detroit truetrac,

stiflers subframe,

springs and strut/shocks and cc plates, lower swaybar link.

Front and rear struts/shock brace

Rear control arms and panhard bar..maybe other stuff...dunno.

Drive it.

NA HP mods can be found by searching the "b-head nasvt recipe."

Enjoy

May I ask how much is a dyno and would it point out any defects or possible weak areas that would need attention?

 

[shurur]

May I ask how much is a dyno and would it point out any defects or possible weak areas that would need attention?

You can get a dyno done for $80 or more.
It would tell you what is going on.
You could get tuner at that time as well.
Others can speak on this issue, as it is not within my limited knowledge space.

I believe your year has OBD2.
I do have a BAFX OBD2 BLUETOOTH connector that I got on Amazon and the Torque Pro app on my phone. This lets me read my ecu. The torque app has other add-on features that might give you info on how the car is running.

Subframes:
The mustang center body is flimsy. Road racers call it the fifth spring or the pie tin.
A subframe will stiffen it up and make handling better.

There are full length subframe connectors and complete subframes.

Maximum motorsports sells a flsc that is a good start and you could stop there.

Stiflers subframe will add to the MM flsf or you can buy their flsf and build on a complete subframe later.

Global West sells a complete subframe as well. Some consider it dated when compared to the stiflers system.

The complete subframe is very stiff and gives you full length jacking rails. Those rails are awesome when working on the car.

 

[BobL]

Thank you so much for spending time with me, you are very kind and I hope you have a great day, week or what’s left of the month.

Bob Lohr
Foley Alabama

 

[Adower]

Adower, thank you for your response. I do have a few questions:

What do you mean by sub frame? Are you referring to checking the frame for rust or damage?

Coil over and CC plates are these tide to springs and struts or something else I should be looking at?

If staying N/A? going FI? I am not a street racer and it will be a daily driver with no more than 500 miles a month. I like competition but more of a “ if needed to it would not embarrass the Mustang family. I want drivable and yet very very healthy…

Regarding seat I am going with leather looking like original, but may have a cobra design stitched at the top….for the look….

Thank you so much for your advice, would you still recommend 3.55’s,gas mileage is not real important and will be using 93 octane….

Bob

See other posts for explanation of subframes.

What are you plans with the car. If staying naturally aspirated (NA) get at least a 4.10 gear. If going forced induction (FI) I like 3.55's

You mentioned you wanted to low your car. The coil over gives you adjustability when lowering your car versus just springs.

 

[shurur]

See other posts for explanation of subframes.

What are you plans with the car. If staying naturally aspirated (NA) get at least a 4.10 gear. If going forced induction (FI) I like 3.55's

You mentioned you wanted to low your car. The coil over gives you adjustability when lowering your car versus just springs.

Just would like to add that CO may be more than is needed for a daily driver car. I know the ride and handling is better with CO.

If going CO, then rear shock towers should be bead welded and braced (CHE, STEEDA...) and front should be MM strut braced at the least.

I know you know these things. I am just adding for the OP. Opinions vary of course..

As an example, I have H&R race springs in the stock location and the strut tower brace probably doesn't do much for me.. because I do not have CO. I just wanted it because.....

I was obsessed with CO until I reminded myself that my car will always be a DD.

 

[crazycarlo]

I would first get some sort of scanner or take it somewhere to check codes. Find out why it’s running rough. Then go from there. It very well may need the IMRC’s cleaned and there is a way to test that they are working properly just search on here.

 

[cobracide]

Good shocks and struts is really all I wanted for a non-track car. Unless you have cash to burn that is. With MM valved shocks / struts - they have several rates to match whatever springs you get.

 

[BobL]

Thank you, no money to burn, but, can come up with some quick change…appreciate your ideas……Bob

 

[BobL]

I would first get some sort of scanner or take it somewhere to check codes. Find out why it’s running rough. Then go from there. It very well may need the IMRC’s cleaned and there is a way to test that they are working properly just search on here.

Thanks Carlo, that makes sense, any recommendations?

 

[shurur]

Thanks Carlo, that makes sense, any recommendations?

Cheapest solution is buy BAFX OBD2 Bluetooth connector on amazon and then download the Torque Pro app to your phone from your phone store.