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Help sorting out my strip set up and tire choice

Discussion in 'Time Slip Bar' started by Captain Crunch, Jun 26, 2019.

  1. Captain Crunch

    Captain Crunch Active Member Established Member

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    Hey guys, so I have put some time and money into my 11’ GT500. I need some help figuring out what to do next.

    Took the car to Do some drag racing over the weekend ..with a not so impressive outing.

    I bought a set of used m/t street rears
    ( 28x12.5 x15) and some sve wheels and threw them on. Gotta a 104 octane tune , bp93 and some boostane and hit the strip ( local airport they have drags at. Not a legit track, only 120 ft traction compound. 1 second slower than other tracks)

    Yes bias in the back radials up front...sketchy on the big end. 18 lbs in the rear tires. Didnt want to go lower because of sway, launching around 4000 and spun alot. Best run was a 12.8 and the rear was moving around alot. Times seemed really slow to me...

    Mods: Gen2r, 2.42 pulley,67mm tb, jlt 123 cai, 56 lb injectors, 3” side exhaust, 3.73 gears, vmp bap, 170 stat.
    Koni sports and sportline springs up front and stock svt pp shocks and bmr drag springs in rear. Steeda LCA and UCA. BMR DS loop.

    (Also have Ford performance alum DS and JBA xpipe cat delete , but not installed)

    Questions: 1) Do I spend $700 for the sve front wheels and m/t 27.5 tires or do I just buy 20 inch drag radials? I see many guys running killer times with the same mods on DRs. I hear about guys braking parts on DRs on stick cars but i see stock rear set ups running 10s on 20” DR.

    2)As far as power Should I buy 72 or 100 lb injectors and put on my JBA x pipe cat/delete to get the most power out of my setup? I believe my injectors are a limiting factor?

    Any and all advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance!
     
  2. SS EATR

    SS EATR Member Established Member

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    I would get the front set of front wheels and tire, they are probably cheaper than 20" drag radials honestly. You running the ET Street Rs on the rear? Also, have you done any data-logging to see if your injectors are maxing out? You should be fine with those and your mods.
     
  3. Captain Crunch

    Captain Crunch Active Member Established Member

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    Yes I’m running the E T Street R on the rear. There are a few sets of drag radials for sale locally that are in excellent condition so I had considered it for half the cost of the front Skinnies. However those front Skinnies don’t weigh anything and I guess I could benefit from the weight loss. I thought I could also dump the sway bar and supporting brackets as I have the BMR sway bar delete I can put in.

    I do data log but I am unsure of where I would see the injector duty cycle. Where would I find that?
     
  4. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    18psi seems really high for bias.. You have a 60ft and d/a? start there.

    Could have worn out or old tires also different runout depending on how they were treated.

    I would try a new set of tires and go from there.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2019
  5. Captain Crunch

    Captain Crunch Active Member Established Member

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    I agree. I had the pressure high because of the sway with the radials in the front. The track was only giving ETA..so no 60 foot or mph. The tires are 4 years old but look In great condition.

    I’m thinking going with the front runners
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2019
  6. IronTerp

    IronTerp Mid-Atlantic Cobra Assoc. Moderator

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    I run Racestars with 28” MT front skinnies on my 07’ and the weight savings was 21.1 lbs per wheel/tire for a total of 42.2 lbs. Bogarts would of given me another 4 lbs per side, but didn’t have the $ this time around!
     
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  7. 01blckcobra

    01blckcobra Active Member Established Member

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    Idk. I've never had that problem with running radials in the front and bias in the rear. Track or street. My car with radials in the front an bias on the rear has felt the most stable. Guess every cars different though.
     
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  8. Captain Crunch

    Captain Crunch Active Member Established Member

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    Yes, I plan to get the skinny fronts And save the weight as well as dump the sway bar and rad support. I tried the car without the sway bar and damn near spun it out at speed with the radials up front.
     
  9. Captain Crunch

    Captain Crunch Active Member Established Member

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    I hoped that was the case as I didnt want to spend the money on the fronts, but is just way too sketchy on the big end with this car. I was cautioned that it wouod be like this from AM but didnt realize it would be that outa hand.
     
  10. Shadow Grey 03

    Shadow Grey 03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Big part of the issue is a non stiffwall bias ply or a broken down sidewall. Doesnt take long to break them down either.
    If you dont powershift a stick car on a bias ply you are loading and unloading the suspension a good bit and that will get that sway going as well. Plenty of factors to take in on why people have issues. I've driven and ridden in a few that had broken down tires and it's not a ton of fun.
    Driven on bias plies with skinny and full size radials up front. Never gave me a problem personally, but it's something for people to point a finger at.
     
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  11. Captain Crunch

    Captain Crunch Active Member Established Member

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    Makes sense, but can i grt away with power shifting on stock tranny and rear?
     
  12. Shadow Grey 03

    Shadow Grey 03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Parts will wear quicker. Especially syncros and clutch. The rear end sees a bunch of "hate" on the launch. I'd say you are more likely to damage it then, but cant say anything to its longevity in your application.
     

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