help with bmr upper control arm bracket

sikryd

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I would apreciate any help you all could give me with the removal of the stock upper control arm bracket. I removed the 3 bolts (1 inside under back seat, 2 below car), bolt that holds arm to rear end, but can't seem to get the bracket and arm out. Sems like the gas tank may need to be lowered a little, but no mention of that in the instructions. Any insite would help.
 
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DMotorsports

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You need a torx plus bit (t-55 I think). Loosen the straps to lower the tank just a little bit and the bracket will come out.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Which hole is best for a street car on the bmr upper control arm mount?

I believe that depends on how much your car is lowered, but to eliminate wheel hop, I'm guessing the lower hole for lowered cars.

It changes the instant center of the suspension if I recall correctly, but there are others more qualified on this forum than I on this topic.
 

sikryd

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You're right. It's a T-50 torx plus bit.

Sorry for the double entry, I realized it would be best to reply to someone in order for them to see this next question. Which hole is best for a street car, on the bmr upper control arm bracket? Thanks again, you guys and svtperformance are awesome.

Car will be lowered 1.5 in rear, 1.2 in front using bmr springs. This is an svtpp car though, so not sure ifthat 1.5 is from base model, or from svtpp level.
 
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dirtyo2000

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It should be the lowest hole. You will not be able to use the top hole if your lowering the car. Can't remember but it is in the instructions. If you are going to set the pinion angle it will be the hole closest to the rear end. If it's a two piece DS then it will be the hole closest to the trans. Make sure to tighten the front bolt up on the Bracket before raising the tank back up and the washer is in place or you will get the clunk and cant get to the bolt with the tank in place.
 

dirtyo2000

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Here you go. If you do use the front hole make sure you don't put loc tite on it. Makes it easier to move it to the second hole.

img0069zg.jpg


img0070ia.jpg


Once in the second hole you can loc tite it. I used the super strength red. Stuff is amazing.
 
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dirtyo2000

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It's tight but yes, I actually did. Used an adjustable wrench on the nut side and got a TQ wrench on the bolt side. It's a two man job though I don't think I could have done it by myself. Adjustable wrench kept falling down while trying to TQ it and the washer would come out of place. At least my brother is good for something lol. You have to lower the gas tank down for the TQ bar to have leverage though. Not to bad just a little tight. We did mine on jackstands in the garage. If you have a lift it's cake.
 

sikryd

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Thanks for all your help... The pictures above are different than the bracket I have, both holes are in the same place on my bracket for the 2011. One is just above the other... I was able to get a torque wrench in to torque all bolts. I was however not able to set the pinion angle, due to the fact that my work area is not level, and doing this on jack stands did not give me much room. Car is back together, front and rear springs, adjustable upper contol arm, lower control arms, adjustable panhard rod and brace. I will get the local shop to adjust the pinion angle when I get her alligned on Tuesday.
 

Robertt305

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There isn't a magic hole "no point intended", but it all depends on the angles of your control arms in relation to your center Of gravity.

Depends on how much anti squat % you want to run and where your instant center should be...

Read up on it, it makes the world of difference when set up right but can be a PIA if off...
 

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