Houston Area Driveline Shop

[mdoan]

My stocker throw-out bearing is on its way out, and that’s one job I think I’ll pass on to the pros. Since my 2010 has 62,000 and a VMP Gen 2 I’m going to go ahead and do the clutch also.

Does anyone know of a shop in the Houston area I can trust? There’s gotta be one Shelbys in the area flock to.

 

[deepblue13]

Kinetik Motorsport in northwest Houston

 

[mdoan]

Awesome thanks!

I got a look at the TOB today. I’ll post pics of the damage soon. Strange failure.

 

[me32]

Id like to know what was odd about it

 

[mdoan]

Tough to get good photos through that tiny window, but the failure is pretty clear:

 

[mdoan]

Server error / double post

 

[mdoan]

Server error / double post

 

[mdoan]

Server error / double post

 

[mdoan]

Server error / double post

 

[mdoan]

In case the photos above don’t post:

 

[Dave.O]

Hrd heideman racing dynamics in jersey village area
832 604 6381

Ex Houston performance shop, specialist in fords esp modulars


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[biminiLX]

XClutch dual kit or stock ‘13-14 clutch for great streetability. May consider the upgraded stainless clutch line, it helps.
Definitely a job to get right.
Not sure how far these guys are from you, but I’d recommend their work:
Paramount Speed - YOUR #1 COYOTE AND MODULAR CHOICE!!!
Good luck.
-J

 

[mdoan]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Now I just have to decide on a clutch...

Mods are a JLT 127mm, VMP Gen 2, 56lb injectors, VMP BAP (x2), and pulleys ranging from 2.4” to 2.8”, though I plan on using the 2.6 as it provides stock belt tension with the metco idler. I had a harmonic balancer and AC clutch bearing go bad with the 2.8” pulley, so I’m thinking belt tension was to blame.

I’ve tentatively narrowed down clutch options to a mantic twin disc (not sure on organic vs ceramic), centerforce dyad, or 13/14 Shelby unit. The Xclutch looks nice too but there aren’t any distributors nearby and I want the shop to be able to procure the parts - keeps everyone happy. My hp is around 700, maybe 750 with the 2.4” pulley that I don’t plan on using, but you never know.

Anyone know if the 13/14 stocker can handle it? I’ve heard the mantic needs a rebuild around 30k miles for ceramic, which isn’t ideal. I’m VERY easy on clutches - the current stocker isn’t slipping yet - but I’ve read if I only fix the TOB the repair won’t last if I don’t go ahead and do the clutch / slave cylinder also.

My main concern is finding a clutch that can handle the power while slipping enough to protect the rest of the stock drivetrain. I’ll pay for a quality clutch and install; I just don’t have the funds to be replacing multiple clutches or drivetrain failures. There are plenty of threads on clutch selection but I still haven’t seen enough to convince me one way or the other. I basically never track the car, just the usual pulls on the street.

 

[biminiLX]

Street pulls only.
What rear tires?
-J

 

[mdoan]

Currently a pair of MT Street Comp 305’s from the previous owner, but they need to be replaced. I put Goodyear Eagle F1’s on the front before I did much research into tires, so I’ll probably just put those in the back to match. Can’t be that bad. Street tires either way, not DR’s.

Edit: I went back and found some emails from VMP when I upgraded the blower. It hasn’t been on a dyno yet, but they estimated 760 crank hp (660 rwhp) with current mods and the 2.4” pulley. With slightly less on the 2.6”, I feel like I may be pushing the 13/14 clutch limits a bit, but I’d like to go that route if I can.

 

[SSSSSSSSSSSSVT]

Lol on Goodjunk F1s. You don’t need to worry about drivetrain shock with those.

 

[biminiLX]

Read and listen to this—tires are the #1 most important choice you can make that directly effects performance.
If you put stock GY tires on it you’ll never enjoy the power it has, plus it’ll seriously be dangerous when road or tire temps are anything but hot.
-J

 

[biminiLX]

Stock ‘13-14 clutch will perform great at that power on street tires.
-J

 

[mdoan]

Thanks for all the great replies everyone. After a lengthy discussion with Kinetik motorsport I decided to give their shop the work. But I will also consider the other suggestions here in the future.

Kinetik recommended the McLeod RST, stainless hydraulic line, Ford TOB/slave, and I went ahead and requested a new OEM flywheel as well. I was really on the fence with the 13/14 unit, but ultimately went with the shop's recommendation. It's always nice to find a location that deals primarily with your vehicle type; their webpage is covered in Shelby's. They do the first 200 clutch break-in engagements by hand, pushing/pulling the vehicle, up ramps, etc.

We'll see how everything works out. Thanks again for all your input. I'll post the results after she goes under the knife hopefully Wednesday.

 

[biminiLX]

They have a good reputation. Good luck and definitely forget about those rear GY tires.
-J