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Discussion in 'Fox-Body Cobras' started by RyneLightning, Feb 9, 2010.
Alright I'm gonna go drive her for a while and see how it goes.
So I drove it around and it did horrible!!!!!!!! Its right back to where it was.....after I had it running perfectly. I just don't understand how it can be so good one second, and the exact opposite the next.
I always keep the timing stock when I'm messing with an idle like that because it takes that variable out. Then once I get it lined out, I raise bump the time and make adjustments if need be.
I know I've been harping on this, but put the FP to 39psi. That takes one more varible out of the equation and that's where it needs to be. Injectors are rated at a static pressure....usually around 43 psi or something like that. Remember the meter tells the EEC how much fuel to deliver so if your too far below that pressure, the engine isn't getting enough fuel.
At that point you've got just a couple of things; clocking that meter and messing with the idle screw, assuming you've already got the TPS in order and the othe miscellaneous stuff.
I stopped by my buddies house to look at where we put his meter, and it's where I thought it was, clocked towards the engine. Every meter I've had this issue liked that clocking........has something to do with the way the air enters, and creates turbulance causing the meters to fritz. Anyway, a picture's worth a thousand words..........so I took two:
Getting closer........I hope!:-D
Alright so the TPS is supposed to be 1.0v? I'll do my best to check that out tomorrow.
And my meter was running best clocked towards the fender, like the exact opposite of your pics, but I'll check into that as well.
And just to be clear, that is 39psi with the vacuum connected right? I think it was running just a little under that when I looked earlier.
Yes, 39 with vacuum, or at least close to that.......38-40. So long at your not down around 30 again.
I like the TPS at 1.0 volt, .98-.99 will work too. They can be a bit touchy.
As far at the meter is concerned, do whatever YOUR car likes. It's just been my experience with a few of these that's where they liked to run. Whatever works is my motto.
x2 on the fp and timing and tps. Get them fixed and don't mess with them. Clocking the meter is the only variable you need to mess with now. It's all about getting that sampling tube to get the right average volume of air coming through there.
Since you have done the clocking and disconnected the battery, are you still getting the check engine light?
Ok so I made everything normal and it is idling good, and running good. The only times it has problems is at start up, and then it eventually catches itself, and when it comes from around 2k and falls down when i change gears making a turn onto another street. So the other day I cleaned the IAC, but I didn't clean the connectors. When I had my lightning it did the same thing, and i mean exactly. If it came down from any significant RPM at all it would just die. So I cleaned the connecters and it is sitting and drying right now, but I will update you.
By the way if I bring it down really slow to a stop, it stays steady and idles fine.
What you are talking about is very common when dealing with the MAF's, and not just C&L's I might add.
When you set the idle screw, did you do it with the IAC unplugged?
What about the MIL, is is still lighting up?
It sounds like your getting close.:thumbsup:
I cleaned the IAC connectors, and it is not running right again, it idles sometimes, but more often not then it does now.
I didn't set the idle with the IAC unplugged, should I?
And if by MIL you mean the check engine light then yes.
What degree should I have the timing set at....just to make sure.
See this a few posts back. Ignore all of the PMS stuff, but follow the instructions for setting the idle. I don't get too carried away the "headlights on" crap, but it does have to be at operating temp.
Stock timing is 10 degrees, but once you get that idle figured out, generally speaking they run well at 14 degrees base.
Should I use the straight edge (time) mark, or the circle notch cut out about an inch below it? My brothers time is set to 10* in the notch....I just want to be sure.
The straight edge part.
What the hell, your brother can't help you out with this idle stuff? LOL.........just kidding!
Alright....Last night on my way home, it was idling and running great, this morning, I cranked it up, it was running great, now I just got back from washing it, and it won't run for the life of me.
I'm starting to think the MAF needs to be replaced, and there is nothing I can do to fix it.
Or you have a bad connection somewhere, which would explain the running good one moment, like crap the next. You mentioned in a few posts back when you were messing with connections on the MAF and the IAC, it seemed to generate problems. How is the connection at the MAF?
Is there anyway I can check the voltage to MAF, or something like that?
Yes, but the bitch is if is a loose connection or something of that nature, it's going to be intermintent. I don't suppose you know someone with a meter calibrated for 30's, do you? That should clear things up for you really quick, one way or another.
There are paremeters for each wire, with the engine running on with the key on, engine off. Without a diagram of the connector and what each is, I don't think I'd do very good job of explaing each and it's paramters.
Or, your adaptive has adapted badly and you need to clock your meter and disconnect your battery again. You also need to take notes about clock position, how it ran initially, etc. Clocking is a tedious process and can take some time. I highly encourage you to continue clocking and working with it.
I bet it's the clocking. I started following this thread since I was having the same issues with my 93. I started clocking my MAF and turned it to the 2:30ish position and it's smoothed right out.
What meter do you have? The 2:30ish seems to be the norm in my experience......always clocked towards the engine a bit.
ONe thing to notice. At 2:30, the air has the best chance at being nice and straight, as well as best velocity since it just came around the outside corner of the air filter housing.